air condition problem
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Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 105
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From: Davison, MI. USA
Car: 91 RS,
Engine: 406ci
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 9 bolt
air condition problem
Is there a certain way to get r134 into airconditioning system. I have the adaptors and hose, but my can isn't emptying!!! The pag oil went in fine. The compressor clickes on and off a little. ??
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 27
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From: Arizona
Car: Chevy Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Stock axles with 3.73
answer
you may just have a clog. I've done the same thing to my 91 z28 and it worked fine. Unfortunatly my compressor was leaking so I wasted 35 dollars in coolant. But check for clogs because it does work.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 515
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From: Brooklyn, N.Y.
Car: '83 Firebird S/E
Engine: The Chevy 305. with carburator
Transmission: 700R-4
He says that the compressor is cycling. Unless he did not evacuate 1st, there should be enough suction to empty the tin. R-134A stinks. It will find even the smallest hole to leak out of. It works at very high head pressures, thereby putting an extra strain on the compressor and the engine. It creates enough heat to require a higher capacity condenser. Also, the little R-4 compressor suffers greatly with this stuff.
R-134A has been linked to instant heart failure as well as testicular cancer.
I have said all of this before. There are organic refrigerants that are superior to this junk. With them, (and none of them work with PAG oil), you get lower head pressure, lower pressures, overall, a much-safer-to-inhale product, and great, ice-cold A.C.. I have been very happy with this stuff. I use EnviroSafe, but there are plenty of similar products out there. This stuff is cheap, will not leak out too easily, is not any more flammable than gasoline, and is scented to alert you of a leak.
R-134A has been linked to instant heart failure as well as testicular cancer.
I have said all of this before. There are organic refrigerants that are superior to this junk. With them, (and none of them work with PAG oil), you get lower head pressure, lower pressures, overall, a much-safer-to-inhale product, and great, ice-cold A.C.. I have been very happy with this stuff. I use EnviroSafe, but there are plenty of similar products out there. This stuff is cheap, will not leak out too easily, is not any more flammable than gasoline, and is scented to alert you of a leak.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
From: Brooklyn, N.Y.
Car: '83 Firebird S/E
Engine: The Chevy 305. with carburator
Transmission: 700R-4
Tim,
Do a web search for Enviro-Safe. It is written exactly like that, on the can. I honestly do not have the web site address; it was on the box, but that is long gone.
You have to flush out any PAG oil, for it is incompatible with this stuff, most other stuff, and of course, the original R-12. There are bottles of liquid that are made to flush out the a.c. in a car. Use the flush. Chase that with compressed air. Follow instructions. Then evacuate with a pump. This gets the moisture out; also permits you to see if the system has leaks. In a side note, I have to tell you to replace the receiver/dryer, because it is a reservoir for the PAG oil. The new dryer is shipped w/o oil. The new oil that you will use is called Ester Oil. It is compatible with all refrigerants. Read the car manual, to figure out how much oil to add to the dryer cylinder. While you have the A.C. apart, spend a few cents on all new o-rings. They are at each hose junction.
There are two types of enviro-safe. One requires the system to be in a vacuum. The other can be used w/o a vacuum. Speak to the salesman. He will fill in any blanks that you may have. I am very happy with this stuff. It is vastly superior to R-134A, and even better than R-12. Takes years to leak out, because the molecules are organic, and therefore larger than those of R-134A.
Do a web search for Enviro-Safe. It is written exactly like that, on the can. I honestly do not have the web site address; it was on the box, but that is long gone.
You have to flush out any PAG oil, for it is incompatible with this stuff, most other stuff, and of course, the original R-12. There are bottles of liquid that are made to flush out the a.c. in a car. Use the flush. Chase that with compressed air. Follow instructions. Then evacuate with a pump. This gets the moisture out; also permits you to see if the system has leaks. In a side note, I have to tell you to replace the receiver/dryer, because it is a reservoir for the PAG oil. The new dryer is shipped w/o oil. The new oil that you will use is called Ester Oil. It is compatible with all refrigerants. Read the car manual, to figure out how much oil to add to the dryer cylinder. While you have the A.C. apart, spend a few cents on all new o-rings. They are at each hose junction.
There are two types of enviro-safe. One requires the system to be in a vacuum. The other can be used w/o a vacuum. Speak to the salesman. He will fill in any blanks that you may have. I am very happy with this stuff. It is vastly superior to R-134A, and even better than R-12. Takes years to leak out, because the molecules are organic, and therefore larger than those of R-134A.
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