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If you want to try to clean the carpet then wet some paper towels and lay on the affected area. Let it sit for a while but don't let it dry out. The coolant is attracted to water and will soak into the towels. Repeat over and over and over again.
Don't let your doggy or kitty near that crap. One taste and they're dead.
It helps. Theoretically....... If you're handy, you could maybe disconnect the hoses and plug or otherwise block them off while changing the core. But it's a lot easier to just drain the radiator, because usually you'll end up cutting the old hoses to get them off the inlet/outlet.
Generally not a fan of bumping old threads, but don't feel like creating a new thread when this one already comes up in the top of Google search results...
Got to refresh my memory, and change the heater core in the Iroc recently, and snapped a couple pics while I was in there. These pics show the "hidden" screw on top of the heater box cover, a close-up of the screw hole, and a shot of the combination of tools that works best for me to "blind man" the top screw. That is a typical 1/4" drive ratchet, 3" 1/4" drive extension, and a deepwell 7mm socket, all Craftsman of the fairly modern variety.
With this combination, it's really easy to slide the extension and socket across the top of the cover until you run into the bump. Note that the top screw is a bit further right than the bottom screw.
If you slide over the bump, you've gone too far. Just before the bump, you should be able to find the screw by tapping or feeling around with the socket/extension combo. The sound and feel will change when you hit metal vs the plastic. The ratchet will rest just touching the face of cover, when the socket is seated on the screw. Then just turn it out.
(85-92 Firebird Note: On the Firebird, just remove the lower trim panel below the map pouch. You'll notice an open slot below the map pouch, it may have various relays, and control boxes mounted there, which may need to be removed, but once everything is out of the way, it's a straight shot with a long extension right to the top screw. You can actually see it with a light.)
It helps to slip a rare earth magnet into the socket, to hold the screws during reassembly.
Hardest part of the job is reaching the lower clamp on the "?" shaped heater hose.
Fun Random Fact #983 - The "?" shaped hose is ACDELCO 14175S, the long hose with the Z bend from the heater core to the bypass valve is ACDELCO 18054L. The zig-zag is supposed to move the hose away from the center of the engine.
This concludes the purge of my project notes.
Excellent! How timely, my heater core just went ***** up.
So I got the most expensive one from Rock auto. My care is a factory L-98 with AC. It has the movable hard lines. Not sure if I like it or not but it is in.
Who has tips to get the lower hose clamp off of the "?" hose?
Rock Auto part number HT399083C (HT 399083C)
The factory strap that held the factory heater core can not be re used nor can the "V" bracket that helped the factory core. Given the hoses being attached and how tight a fit it is I do not think this is an issue.
I did not remove my dash pad to get the old core out or the new one in.
To remove the bottom hose just get out the sawsall and long blade and cut!
Just used this method to get at the core hoses behind the engine on my Buick.
Didnt need to cut the bottom hose on my Z to remove but it was a PIA.
I bought one last year or year before from 1A auto and it was exact in fit. My old was brass, but the new was aluminum. Didn't even have to tweak the lines going threw the firewall.
So I got the most expensive one from Rock auto. My care is a factory L-98 with AC. It has the movable hard lines. Not sure if I like it or not but it is in.
Who has tips to get the lower hose clamp off of the "?" hose?
Rock Auto part number HT399083C (HT 399083C)
The factory strap that held the factory heater core can not be re used nor can the "V" bracket that helped the factory core. Given the hoses being attached and how tight a fit it is I do not think this is an issue.
I did not remove my dash pad to get the old core out or the new one in.
Just unloosen and cut like previously said if your not trying to save the hose, (which this is a perfect time to replace-cheap and easy), but if your trying to keep it, I've used the cheap pick set from harbor freight. It has a pick shaped like a fish hook. Just get anything shaped like that (bent metal hanger) and slip it with some lube or something (whatever) in between the tube and hose and work it around the diameter while pulling on the hose, then whalaa!
I bought one last year or year before from 1A auto and it was exact in fit. My old was brass, but the new was aluminum. Didn't even have to tweak the lines going threw the firewall.
Yes i believe that one is it. Seemed like it cost a little more than that though, but was less than other places. I put 2 screw drivers through the firewall so I could guide it threw (was by myself), found the angle to line up and it slid straight through with no adjustments. Everything fit back together perfectly. I haven't used it yet because i'm still hooking everything back up on the new engine that I have swapped (life really got in the way this summer).
3rd....................The Spectra alum. core I put in my 84 a few years back is leaking also!
Good thing its got a lifetime warranty!
Will be pretty easy this time because I left out that top right PIA screw.
I wounded my engine anyhoo but she still runs!
Its time for the old girl to sleep for the winter and break out the winter rat!
3rd....................The Spectra alum. core I put in my 84 a few years back is leaking also!
Good thing its got a lifetime warranty!
Will be pretty easy this time because I left out that top right PIA screw.
I wounded my engine anyhoo but she still runs!
Its time for the old girl to sleep for the winter and break out the winter rat!
as far as that m-fn top bolt designed by gm engineers without ever talking to mechanics who have to deal with their poor design choices with no consideration for level of effort required to r&r their bs designs goes...
post #96 has a good picture of where your 1/4" drive rachet with a 7mm or 9/32 socket needs to be when you're working upside down trying to remove it.
having just did this in a 1989 Camaro Rs Convertible 305 TBI 700-R4. I'll add that using a extra long 1/4" rachet like one of the two i've posted will make this easier still.
The standard length craftsman 1/4" drive rachet like the one shown is 5" oal and the two snap on extra long 1/4" drive rachets i've posted are 10-1/2" oal.
while you can do it with the 5 incher the end of the rachet is near the bottom of dash making it a difficult two finger operation for me.
on my 89 rs removing dashpad, speaker or loosining the dash was not needed.
pulling the ecm out gave me plenty of room.
I did pull my dashpad and speaker off to see if ir would be any easier that way for r&r and for me it was not.
the best way for me was with passenger seat removed so it was more comfortable to work upside down, i found the braile method the best way to get the socket on that stinkin basturd top bolt, i felt for the bolt with my left fingertips, used my right hand to get socket, extension and rachet close to my left fingers on the bolt head and got it on the bolt that way. Taping the nut to the socket is probably the best way for reinstall.
I also found this brass made in usa heater core, imho aluminum sucks for heatercores and radiators especially the one's made in CHINA or otherwise not 100% Made In USA from 100% Made In USA Materials & Resources.
IMHO I think the hoopla of aluminum over brass for radiators & heater cores is it's cheaper to make out of aluminum than brass.
Bypassed my heater core and AC in 2001. But with my interior currently out of the car, if I was ever going to replace it, the timing would never be better.
It came out without much work. But $220-$250 to re-core it? I expected $100-$150. But after talking to a couple of shops, apparently that's a realistic price range to re-core our type of heater core. Here's mine after removing it:
After reading about so many people's bad experiences with replacements, I went on a quest to find something better than those. So I searched some known part numbers:
98606: FVP(linked by Chazman) and Pro Source(available at Auto Zone). PS is probably FVP's product, which appears to be a distributor or manufacturer, not a vendor.
94606: Murray and Spectra Premium. Murray looks exactly like the Spectra Premium, FVP and Pro Source, too, so whoever makes one, probably makes them all.
399083: Spectra Premium comes up here too, along with some store brands.
A local store had a Murray core on hand, so I took mine and compared them. The Murray, by the way, IS a Spectra Premium, and it will "fit," sort of. It's smaller than OE and leaves gaps between it and the frame, but its tubes looked to be aligned correctly, so it can be made to work. But it's so CHEAP, just like all of the others.
Our OE core(just the core) is 7" x 7" x 2" thick, and these replacements are 6-3/4" wide x 5-3/4" tall x 1-1/4" thick, with 1/2" tall x 2" wide frames across the top and bottom to make it 6-3/4" square, then has foam across the top and bottom to try to fill the gaps and make it "match" ours. Really? That's the best anyone could do? And some genius in a corporate office approved it. LOL! WTF?! Light as a feather, too, like made of aluminum foil. I probably could've done a pretty good 'Matt Hooper'(from "Jaws"), and crushed it with one hand. Disappointing that this junk is all we have to choose from.
So I called. Northern Radiator is a nationwide distributor, so Nolan contacted all of their warehouses across the country and then called me back a few hours later. None in stock anywhere, sadly. He told me the manufacturer is Thermal Solutions in the Chicago area and gave me the phone number.
A search for Thermal Solutions showed it to be a very popular name for businesses of this nature, but I did find one in the Chicago area that manufactures heater cores. Its product's brand name appears to be Ready-Aire, which I think was also sold as Vista-Pro, and is probably the same "Ready-Rad" product Bohemian mentioned in the post above mine. The website mentions 11,500 applications for heater cores! https://www.thermalsolutionsmfg.com/heater-cores/
But our model isn't listed. 11,500 applications, yet ours appears to be no longer available. And with Northern Radiator confirming that none of its warehouses had any stock, it looks like we'll have to go directly to Thermal Solutions and beg. I didn't phone TS today, but I will tomorrow(which will be today by the time I post this).
Maybe WE can convince TS to produce them again. But they're not likely to be cheap, like the tin foil replacements. And we all know how "group buys" go around here LOL, so I hope that isn't what it will take to get them made. But if they're reasonably priced, whatever that is, then we should, at least, be able to make it worthwhile for TS to have produced these again. Seems like our best, maybe only, chance to get a good, OE-like heater core again. Probably now, or never.
If these hopefuls don't pan out, and they didn't, as you'll read in my next post, two below this one, then re-core it will be. Not for "originality," because, frankly, 95% of these cars are and will forever be worthless, mine included, and originality isn't going to save them. But in this case, only OE fits correctly, no others do.
Last edited by LAFireboyd; Jun 19, 2020 at 05:00 PM.
I just talked to Thermal Solutions, Tina. She was very nice and as helpful as she could be. Their heater cores WERE exactly like our originals. They just recently discontinued them, scrapping all of the leftovers, so none exist, as far as they know, and they don't plan to produce more in the future. I asked, "what if I can get a few hundred people to start calling you?" Got a laugh, but no, no plans to start producing them again. So if anyone happens upon an OE-style heater core, I'd suggest you grab it, whatever its price. It's not likely to be a "$33" product like the typical replacements, but it will be far less than a re-core, which she confirmed is far more expensive than buying a manufactured heater core. So $250 is not unrealistic, if it's an OE-quality core. So re-core or replace comes down to each person's priorities.
Spectra Premium #94606 fitted pretty good in my 1991. Had to do a bit of shimming and light bending but overall works well. Bought it from Rockauto.com
I ended up with the Spectra Premium from Napa.
Next problem is, I also bought both hoses that attach. The new QUESTION MARK hose inside diameter is too large. I measure my old one around 11/16".
Rock Auto, Autozone and this Napa 11605 says its 13/16" or .8" or 20mm.
Anyone had a problem using these new?
I ended up with the Spectra Premium from Napa.
Next problem is, I also bought both hoses that attach. The new QUESTION MARK hose inside diameter is too large. I measure my old one around 11/16".
Rock Auto, Autozone and this Napa 11605 says its 13/16" or .8" or 20mm.
Anyone had a problem using these new?
That's unfortunate!!!
I've never really measured the I.D. on 'em hoses. I used local part store 5/8" to intake manifold and 3/4" to radiator. I got rid of the oil cooler and metal pipe along the subframe, so I'm running hoses all the way to radiator and intake manifold. The heater core hose connectors are 2 different sizes.
Right. One is 5/8 but the new larger hose just don't seem right. Way to loose.
Since I have a spare heater core and some heater hose in the ol parts stash , I figured I post a couple of pics for you and any future readers of this thread . The hose sizes that fit our heater core are 5/8" and 3/4" . Now , I have no clue why the likes of Rock Auto and all the rest even list that other size 13/16" , I have never heard of there being different heater core hose sizes on our cars other than 5/8" and 3/4" . So I'm left wondering if the listing isn't a mistake maybe the 89 TTA or maybe cars with the iron duke might have had different heater core hose sizes ? but I'm sure the regular V6 (non turbo) and V8 engines all use the heater core shown in my pics .
I am also in the need of a heater core & am saddened that we can't buy a quality unit. I looked for the spectra 94606 on rock auto, but it would appear they no longer have them.
Going to guess Spectra is likely making one of these for the other suppliers. Hard to believe there are 7 companies making them.
Spectra still making them in Canada? Or are they using imported inventory as well?
4 Seasons "makes" things. At least, SOME things. Have been doing so for the half-century or more that I've been dealing with auto parts. No idea whether they actually "make" this particular thing, or just buy it from the low bidder and box it up. The world is changed.
LOTS of companies BUY things and put them in boxes with a different name on them. Can't say that I've ever even HEARD of any of those others "box names" except for TYC. Which in my experience is ... not a box name I would buy from just because the "thing" had their name on it. I have no clue who they are.
Pay more attention to what's IN THE BOX, and less to the NAME on the outside.
I particularly invite focus on the country of origin. Not that people whose country name starts with a C "can't" make good stuff; after all, they have one of the oldest and most inventive human cultures on our planet; rather, that their country has been the reservoir of CHEEEEEEEEEEP labor for some decades of late, and if something is made there, it's because WHOEVER CAUSED IT TO BE MADE, was in the RACE TO THE BOTTOM. So in addition to your dollars going to prop up the CCP, which owns essentially everything there (or can always at any time for any reason or even no reason at all forcibly take it if they want it), there's always that to consider.
Whatever you buy, you get, AT BEST, what you pay for. Unfortunately usually somewhat less than that. So ... ummm ... if you buy THE CHEEEEEEEEEPEST, what do you suppose you're going to get? Right: AT BEST, you're going to get ... crap. And it'll likely be downhill from there.
Tread carefully.
Never heard of a ¾" heater hose not fitting on a heater core for a GM car butt then what the hell do I know. Stranger things have happened, and even some of those, to stranger people than me. That would TRULY SUCK.
Thats the problem I suppose, with these heater cores (& most parts today) its all cheap & we don't have a quality option.
So it's figure out whats the best of the worst, seeing worst is all we have to chose from.
Grew up with Delco being a GM owned company making parts in the USA & then watching it systematically be transformed into a box selling company over the last couple decades.
A $50 dollar Chinese part in a $50 box = A $100 Delco part. Its sad, it really is. I loathe the idea of putting a $45 heater core in my car.
We used to have a radiator shop her in town. They were around for over 100 years, but sadly they are gone. I'll research re-coring the original & see if there is still anyone in a reasonable distance from me.
Thats the problem I suppose, with these heater cores (& most parts today) its all cheap & we don't have a quality option.
So it's figure out whats the best of the worst, seeing worst is all we have to chose from.
Grew up with Delco being a GM owned company making parts in the USA & then watching it systematically be transformed into a box selling company over the last couple decades.
A $50 dollar Chinese part in a $50 box = A $100 Delco part. Its sad, it really is. I loathe the idea of putting a $45 heater core in my car.
We used to have a radiator shop her in town. They were around for over 100 years, but sadly they are gone. I'll research re-coring the original & see if there is still anyone in a reasonable distance from me.
Yes, if re-coring the original is an option, that would be my first choice.
Also try eBay or other market sites for a NOS or older quality reproduction if you can't find someone to re-core the original, that is what I had to do.
I bought one last year from Jegs (they had 2 brands - NOT the OER brand) because of a failure. It went in with very minimal massaging, and tubes were not pressed in or rotatable. It held up to a couple of boil overs while diagnosing over heating issues. It also fits the brackets which some do not. Hose were standard size. This is what I would purchase again if I had to.
