My 350 just got put in and it runs incredibly hot... i have the stock RS radiator for now but im gunna get a Griffin for my bday....

wats the deal... what should i check for cuz im stumped.... sitting for like 10-15 mins and its approaching 240*... possible bad gauge too?

 

What's with the recent wave of threads about motors running really hot so soon after start up? Must be the latest craze that I am unaware of...

Start with the basics: Make sure there's enough coolant in the system, no air pockets, etc.

 

lol sorry.. i didnt know..

but i have full water + redline water wetter... no antifreeze... should i add some.?

how can i check for air pockets...? and fixes?

also could it be the radiator is at its cooling capacity, i have a 16" Imperial brand Electric cooling fan that blows 1400cfm

 

Water has the highest specific heat of any liquid, so water alone should be the ultimate coolant.

 

Water and water wetter are all I run and cooling over 500hp on the street with NO problems-actually building heat is the problem LOL!!

Anyways, like Aperion already said, I would check for air pockets first and foremost. Anytime you install a new engine, there are tons of voids needing filled so air pockets are extremely easy to get and sometimes as hard to get rid of (that's why I love my electric water pump Get it running and leave cap off for awhile-maybe 5minutes or so with engine at operating temp so stat is open and fully circulating coolant through everything-add as needed.

Be sure the stat is good, I've gone through streaks in the past getting 3-4 bad ones in a row and finally gave up and started buying stright from the factory-nothing beats factory parts for longevity-especially on parts that do not add hp but factor into reliability.


Double check your timing as well, sometimes if it's too high it'll make it run hotter than it should-but if it starts up easy, shuts off with no dieseling, and restarts easy when hot, I doubt that's the problem unless the dizzy guts are worn and causing erratic timing.

Josh

 

well i wish i could double check if it diesles or anything but im suer im advanced ..... unfortunally i think im advanced on the valve timing which means dropping the oil pan..... argg

 

also im wondering if im running a bit lean.... does anyone know if turning the mixture screws in on a 1406 edelbrock make it leaner or richer

 

Did you install the cam straight up or did you advance it a few degrees? I assume this is what your talking about since you mention pulling the pan. Even so, you should be able to back off inital timing and recurve the dizzy so it's brings it in slower or just pull back total timing a few degrees.

With open header/after market loud mufflers it's very hard to hear preignition, but if you pay really close attention some rattleing pop cans may still be audible, but you'd need a knock sensor to fully grasp if it's doing it or not since often it can be so minut you'd never hear it. Another way to check is run some higher octane fuel in the mix, if you hear audible pinging.

Just reflecting on all the motors we've dropped in over the years, I'd lay my better guess on a air pocket in some region that just needs worked out is a big culprit provding water pump/stat are doing their job, and they are not always easy and can give you alot of head scratching-but really focus on that aspect until you know you've triple checked and completely ruled out that possiblity.

 

i will check the air pocket deal when i get it back up....


as far as pinging goes.. i got non... im 99% sure that i have the cam installed straight up but im unsure as of now...

the dist is almost at 0* base ..... grr i ono it doesnt ping or back fire constantly like im used to..


it just does it when rpms are around 1000 or less and i goose it... lugs then one lil poof outa the carb....

 

also... im running 93 octane with some Super 108 brand octane boost...

i'm pretty sure im not having any ping

 

Sounds like your timing is pretty low already, what is at all in? you'll have to rev the move to roughly 3-3500 depending on what curve you have in the dizzy. But from the sounds of it, does'nt seem like that's the problem.

As far as your stomp and poop, that's a carb tuning issue that will ultimaely play into the motors temp condition as well, running it lean will cause excessive heat build up.

That's another trick to running high compression and low octane fuel-keep motor cool, timing correct, the right heat range plugs, and run the carb fat.

 

ok thats awsome to hear that i dont have a timing issue per se... i hate the edelcrap carb i got and i know its in bad tune....

i need to know which direction to turn the mixture screws to richen the mixture..... i can look at the msd things and tell you my mechanical curve.... i got the MSD diz so its adjustable...

 

If you have'nt posted in the Carb section with the mixture ?, that will be your best bet for a quick sure fired answer. I've personally never seen an Edelbrock on anything i'd consider fast and never seen one that has run correctly out of the box, maybe just 4 or 5 lemons with the guys I know that tried them, but after seeing the first one casue headaches that was enough to turn me away, then seeing more after that...but that's just me. Alot of guys on here love and swear by them.

 

i hate this edelcrap too.... but when i get some cash im getting a demon...

as for the carb section... i forgot we had one... doh thanks