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two fan problems

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Old May 31, 2006 | 12:56 PM
  #1  
skyluslondon's Avatar
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two fan problems

hey guys, ive got a 91 350 z28. so my car pretty much stays cool because of the new air dam. it was overheating before because my primary fan doesnt kick in until 260!!! and i think it should be coming on at about 220. anyone know why? does the ecm have to be reprogrammed or something? the motor has already been replaced..the fan motor i mean. also..this isnt exactly a big problem but i noticed the ac cooling fan only kicks in when i have the ac on low and set to normal(as opposed to max) weird huh? any suggestions would be real helpful. thanks
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 01:26 PM
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Wadebryant's Avatar
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From: KY
Car: 87IROC, 740iBMW, 328iBMW, 86GMC
Engine: 5.7, 4.4LV8, 2.8, 6.0
Transmission: Manuals & Auto's
Axle/Gears: 3.27, 3.42
260's too hot! 220 range is more to the norm or OE design. You can easily change that if so inclined.
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 05:11 PM
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Forshock 85TA's Avatar
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From: Victorville, CA
Car: 85 Trans Am
Engine: 350 (CCC QJet)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 9 bolt
secondary fan is not ecm, it is fan switch.

Either your fan switch is bad or your gauge is off. Im thinking the latter.
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Wadebryant
260's too hot! 220 range is more to the norm or OE design. You can easily change that if so inclined.
im inclined. not sure how though, anyone mind telling me?
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 08:53 AM
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Wadebryant's Avatar
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From: KY
Car: 87IROC, 740iBMW, 328iBMW, 86GMC
Engine: 5.7, 4.4LV8, 2.8, 6.0
Transmission: Manuals & Auto's
Axle/Gears: 3.27, 3.42
Originally Posted by skyluslondon
im inclined. not sure how though, anyone mind telling me?
The fan switch is located on passenger side head between #6 & 8 cylinders. There should be a one single wire lead to it with a female plastic coupler. (Dont confuse it with the knock sensor on the block.) If you still have OE exhaust manifolds, it'll be easier to locate and replace from under the car. Drain the anti freeze, jack up the car and crawl under. Locate the wire lead to the switch, pinch the plastic coupler to remove it from the switch, then remove the switch, you'll probably get soaked so be prepared.

Many times the plastic coupling connector is shot. Usually caused by heat so keep that in mind before you purchase the replacement switch. Some of the replacement switches come with a new pig tail connector, like those sold by Hypertech or Jet but, you'll pay dearly for those. If you want or need just a new switch, the best deal going is by far the cooler activated 200 deg on, 185 deg off switch sold by MADVET under part # 609-106. Check their web site, they also sell the switch and the kit if you need it. Corvette Parts & Accessories by Mid America Motorworks, 800.500.1500

PS MADVET is a Corvette site but many C4 parts interchange and are compatible with 3rd gens.
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 10:06 AM
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thanks
one last question. ive already got a fan switch that turns the primary on at 170 degrees i think. is it necessary to replace the switch between the 6 and 8 cylinders if i just install this?
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 11:50 AM
  #7  
Wadebryant's Avatar
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From: KY
Car: 87IROC, 740iBMW, 328iBMW, 86GMC
Engine: 5.7, 4.4LV8, 2.8, 6.0
Transmission: Manuals & Auto's
Axle/Gears: 3.27, 3.42
You have an aftermarket switch that's activated from somewhere other than the OE fan switch location?
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 03:04 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Wadebryant
You have an aftermarket switch that's activated from somewhere other than the OE fan switch location?
check it out. Non-adjustable Thermostat Switch : JC Whitney, Parts and Accessories
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 06:07 AM
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From: KY
Car: 87IROC, 740iBMW, 328iBMW, 86GMC
Engine: 5.7, 4.4LV8, 2.8, 6.0
Transmission: Manuals & Auto's
Axle/Gears: 3.27, 3.42
Cant help you with the part from JC Whitney. You're on your own with that.

Good luck.
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