Since Griffins and BeCools cost your arm and your left nut, I'm looking for feedback on quality, cooling performance and fit on the Summit aluminum direct fit radiators.

My stock rad is starting a slow leak, so I might as well replace it before it becomes a big leak and strands my **** somewhere. I've had it with those plastic tanks, no more of that crap.

It would be nice if the replacement had a little more cooling capacity than stock.

 

I know someone that has a Summit radiator, I don't, so I will just say, his motor made 605 RWHP on the Dyno, and he cruises his car all the time, and has no probs whatsoever.

its an 89 Camaro. I think he has one fan too, nothing special.

Hope this helps

 

I have a Summit direct-fit radiator in my 427cid '87 IROC Z. It's made by Northern Radiator and the quality is excellent. I did the 'long haul' on the '06 Power Tour and had no overheating problems. It's not quite a bolt-in though. You have to cut the ends off the top shroud and I had to replace the bottom draincock with a flat pipe plug to get the rad to sit level. It's also a very tight fit on the sides of the rad.

--Neil

 

Interesting. Sounds like it's really not quite "direct fit" after all. The thing that bothers me is your draincock issue.

My problem isn't really overheating per se, in the cooler months there's no problems. But in the summer here, triple digit days are common, and on those hot days it barely stays under 220. If I get stopped in traffic and the fans come on, it takes forever to get the temp back down below 220 even on the freeway with plenty of airflow. I'm running one of those RobertShaw hi-flo 180* stats (with a couple 1/8" holes), and about a 66% mix of water and 33% green antifreeze, with some water wetter and anti-rust/water pump lube dumped in. Therer is no blockage, no leaves or crap in the way. In the summer, it just struggles not to overheat. I want something with a bit more heat transfer capacity than stock so it won't run at 220 for the summer months.

I also see the internet sites like radiators.com and others that offer all metal replacements, supposedly direct fit, with "increased capacity". I wonder if any of those are wsorth a crap???

 

I sell those northern radiators @ Performance Radiator. They are not a true direct fit, but once they are in there, you will have no problems. It should not run more than $375 plus what ever your state taxes are. As for the all metal radiators you were referring to, the do hold more coolant, but they are not all that efficient so you might be in the same boat your in now.

 

My Ron Davis radiator will be here tomorrow but its about $1000. Check out their web site at Ron Davis Racing. This is custom fit for an 82-92 f-body. it has twin spal 14" fans! and the shroud is built on. It will be for a 434 ci small block with around 550 to 600 horses.

 

Wow, 1-large is too much to blow on a radiator, IMO. My stock fans work just fine, I'm happy with them. All I want is a radiator I can drop in there that fits w/o BS hassle, with increased cooling capacity over the stocker, and no friggin plastic end tanks.

 

Summit sells the Northern for 90 bux less. With no tax. Sorry, that's too big a difference to ignore. 100 bux will buy a lot of groceries.

 

I am using just one of the universal ones from summit. It is made by nothern. Fitmit wasnt that bad really. I made a new upper support just out of sheetmetal and some rubber. Then I am running aftermarket fans. The only problem I have had is that the cap is hitting the hood. I can get it shut but now I have a dent in the hood. I think with some massaging I can get it to set lower. I dont think it would be a problem in a camaro though since there is less slope of the hood.

 

Does anyone have pics of there summit radiator installed?

 

I JUST got done installing the Summit Racing "Direct Fit" rad in my bird. I must have ordered the special custom fit one instead. They say direct fit but they mean it will fit where the old one used to be with nothing attached to it. Lets see:
1.) I had to put an slight indentation in the front frame rame rail right by the lower hose connection because there was about 1/16 of clearance between the neck and the frame. NO way the hose would fit.
2.) I had to modify the lower radiator rubber mounts by cutting the little bit of rubber that seperates the Rad from A/C heat exchanger. I added another piece of rubber in to help keep it inplace. What a cluster that was. Good thing I removed my A/C or else it wouldn't fit at all!
3.) I had to do away with the rubber mounts for the top or the support all together. I had to cut the ends off the upper support to get close to the bolt holes.
4.) I had to cut some metal away from the upper part of the core support to get the rad close enough to use said bolt holes and not make a custom fan support.
5.) I had to slot the lower fan mounting bracket so I could move them over slightly so the drivers side fan on my dual fans wouldn't hit the tank.

So all in all the radiator is nice but the installation will kill you!!!!!

 

Tremo, if you want better cooling use a 4th gen dual fan shroud. I just finished installing one in my `88 383 TPI Iroc and the temp gauge will not go over 200. I have a 200 on 185 off fan switch and toggle for the primary and secondary fans with LED`s for each fan so I know when it is on. It`s cooled down here quite a bit but about 80 yesterday and I let the car idle for over 30 minutes and never over 200, same in stop and go traffic. If you want more info let me know, it works and is well worth the money. Jim

 

Meatman- what size is the summit universal u are running? i see one that is slightly larger than the direct fit but if the direct fit is a tight fit it probably wouldnt work.