soundmaster2.0

I own a 92 v6 Firebird and my heater control valve keeps leaking. This will be the forth time I have had to replace it. Is there anything else that could be causing this part to break all the time?

CreepingDeath94

iTrader: (4)

Does it rub at all on the a/c compressor lines there or the bracket for the lines? If it does, it might be rubbing through with engine vibration over time. Also, check to see if it hits anywhere else. I guess it is possible that if the heater hose lines were too tight pulling it in the three directions it could cause it to leak if the hoses are pulling the plastic pieces of the heater control valve at angles sharp enough to put strain on the plastic itself and over time it cracks there possibly. I would check for rub though first.

soundmaster2.0

It isn't the tubes it is the plastic itself. God this is pissing me off.

CreepingDeath94

iTrader: (4)

I know...is the plastic rubbing on the tube? The metal tube isn't going to rub away before the plastic heater control valve.

Jay

iTrader: (2)

possibly overtightening the clamps?
I've had enough break on me in 3 different 3rd gens.. one within days of replacing it, that I got tired of it and removed it.
My current car I got the correct hardline and deleted all the extra hoses.

soundmaster2.0

Upon taking it off the part is leaking right under where the top piece and the rest of the part come together. I think this part is just generally designed badly.

86TpiTransAm

I know this is an old post but I'm currently having this issue so I felt it was OK to bring this back from the dead. I'm on my 3rd one right now (counting the factory one) and it does indeed leak in the same spot every time. Right under the umbrella style top. I think there's a diaphragm on the inside (because of the vacuum used) and that diaphragm is probably what's going bad. I put the 2nd one on about 1 year and 3 months ago and the wonderful parts only have a 1 year warranty on them. It's a good thing my price is only $13 on these thing. They're a PITA to replace though.

soundmaster2.0

Yea mine is still breaking all the time I would suggest you put hose clamps on that are easy to remove. I have it down to 10 minutes to replace the part.

CrimsonDragon

Does anyone know of a metal Heater Valve? I am on my fourth replacement in 2 years. We have bought quality hose clamps, have not overtightened, we are not rubbing anywhere nor is there tension from the heater hoses. Has anyone come up with a mod to make the plastic ones last longer? I am heading out now to buy two - one to replace and one to keep with me. Thanks -

soundmaster2.0

Yea after awhile I figured out that I had anti-freeze leaking out of the anti-freeze plugs at the back of the engine and it was causing the remaining anti-freeze to get super hot and warp the heater control valve. I would suggest checking the anti-freeze plugs.

CrimsonDragon

Keepin this thread alive a bit more - Anybody know of a better Heater Diverter Valve? Ideally of metal. Have bought Napas and Kragens - Kragens was better believe it or not.
Any ideas guys? I am going to keep a spare with me at all times until I find a better replacement.

91rsmike

I started my 91 rs this morning and on my way to work noticed my temp was hi and then car over heating, pull off road and opened hood looked like coolant sprayed everywhere. was looking around and saw coolant bubbling out of the HTV do you thing this is the problem? I looked around more and didnt see coolant comming from anywhere else. Wife picked me up when I got home you can see where coolant was leaking all down driveway.

henryd3

iTrader: (128)

When mine broke I got one from Kragens or somewhere like that and it didn't last long. Turns out my heater hoses had become expanded over the years and required too much tightening to seal. The GM ones are made of much sturdier material and hold up well to heat, but even those will break if overtightened. New heater hoses that fit snugly and hose clamps on a GM valve solved everything and it's been problem free for years. The cheaper plastic ones are not worth the savings, they just don't hold up