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Drier gasket and Fan issue

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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 12:43 PM
  #1  
ClickClickVroom's Avatar
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From: St. Aug
Car: 92 Z03 RS TBI
Engine: 5.0 L03
Transmission: T-5
Drier gasket and Fan issue

Hello everyone,
I have two issues with my cooling system now. They're both old and I thought I had fixed them both. The first is with my AC. I noticed my car was revving itself, much like when it does when it's low on freon. I checked my levels and sure enough it was low, and the clutch was engaging/disengaging. I had this issue before and tightened the giant tube on the back of the drier, as that's where the leak was. Well the issue is back. I think that when I had my car converted to r134a they forgot a gasket or something, becuse it's leaking there again. I tried tightening it but I'm worried I'll torque the dryer too much and something will snap/explode. I blame tireman and their EPA failure.

So is there a gasket there? here's a pic of where the leak is.

http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...rrent=leak.jpg

Also, yes I do know about shorting the plug to get the clutch to stay engaged to fill it. I was watching the level drop after I put a can in.

Second, I have an overheating issue. When I bought the car the fan support on the bottom was dented up, the fan couldn't physically spin, and it was burned out. I replaced the fan, the fuse, and bent the support back into place. The fan seemed to work fine. It was hot, so I had the AC on when I would run the car (This was right after the AC was done and it hadn't started leaking yet). Now, I've noticed the fan doesn't run at all unless the ac is on, and I still have overhetaing issues. From what I understand from another thread in this subforum it's a fan switch issue.
What is the best one? I saw jet fan switches will activate at lower temps, but at what temps? what's the best temp to activate?

Thanks,
A.sting
P.S. My car had to spend the night in a publix parking lot because of these issues :/

Would this work for the switch?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
NVM that's dual fan.

Last edited by ClickClickVroom; Feb 1, 2009 at 01:27 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 02:08 PM
  #2  
NINÅ's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,341
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From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56

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Unscrew it to discover possible omission of the O-ring.

Wear safety goggles.

When you get your system operating properly you won’t need to short any plugs.

You want to fix it right and not jury-rig anything.

As far as the best temp switch, the factory switch is about 220°.

You might want to get one at 185°.

For semi-race street engines I prefer 160°.



Happy Racing!

If People Drove Any Slower They’d Be Going Backwards


How bout those dorks too scared to drive without headlights on in the day time!

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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 04:33 PM
  #3  
ClickClickVroom's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 134
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From: St. Aug
Car: 92 Z03 RS TBI
Engine: 5.0 L03
Transmission: T-5
Re: Drier gasket and Fan issue

Actually, the putting of a pin in the sensor has nothing to do with ghetto rigging or doing it correctly. You can't fill a compressor unless the system is engaged, and the system won't engage unless it's full. You trick the system into thinking it's full so you can fill it.

Yeah what I'm trying to find out is if there's supposed to be an O-ring or not.

And thanks, I just ordered a replacement form summit (a lower temp one).
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