Hi there..I am doing an TPI swap right now...

I am swapping from a carb to TPI on a 87 Camaro with 305 engine.

I am almost finish with the big parts and now the details are coming.

Where should the coolant hoses go?..I mean, on carburettor there are hoses from the waterpump to the intake manifold and further to the firewall.

Anyone that have any diagram that shows where the lines go??

 

Hope this helps!!

Bob

See 5th Post.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...g-coolant.html

 

This helps a little bit...I can see there is a little difference on the cooling/heating system on TPI cars.

On my carburettor there are one Hose that goes from the water pump to the inlet of the heater core. On the middle of that hose there is a T so that hose goes to the intake manifold.

Then the other one goes from the outlet of the heater core and on a VALVE and further down to the intake.

What my problem is where does ALL of the coolant hoses go. From water pump and into the intake...out of the intake?...In to the heater core and out of heater core?...And what about the throttle body???

I guess i will need a VALVE for TPI engines also???

 

I think the only hose that one doesn't show is the little short one that goes from the front of the intake manifold to the underside of the throttle body.

As for the valve. I would say that you do not need it... It it just so hot coolant does not circulate through the heater core unless the heater is on. You could just do it with no valve and coolant would just route through the heater core all the time.

I think the setup you might be wanting to go with is the one on the right in the picture ^above^ ("W/C41").

 

How much less does the ac work without the valve? I hate that valve on my car. On my old truck I put a manual valve in place to stop flow in the summer. No reroute it, just block it would this hurt anything?

 

I dunno how bad it affects the A/C... I also don't know too much about just how the air flow is routed around back there behind the dash. However, I think when I had my firewall box off, there was a little door that blocks off the heater core when you slide the temp. adjuster all the way to the cold side... So, I would think that would be plenty, any radiant heat is all that would seep through... Then again, I'm from WA and the hottest it gets here is like 90-ish and that's only for like a few weeks each year.

I actually took out my A/C...

As for completely blocking the flow... I would think that might not me the best idea. I would assume that having some flow through the block, would be ideal, to keep the coolant moving and mixing, so it doesn't form hot spots and to keep the temperature more uniform throughout the coolant. Might also be better for the water pump to not be pumping into a dead end.

If you do want to completely shut off flow to the heater box w/o rerouting the coolant, it might be advisable to do that thing where you drill a couple little holes in the thermostat, so you get some flow through even when it is closed.

 

I did more research after I posted, I don't think it will really mater if the coolant ran through the condenser all the time. The ac/heat box was never changed so it still has the diverter in it as you mentioned. But blocking will be bad because the sbc uses the heat core as a bi-pass. Only drawback I can find is slower warm-up.

 

Ok...But on the drawings the hoses come's from the radiator. I guess I have to run the hose from the water pump or else there will be a big water mess in my engine room???

So then I will just buy new radiator hoses that goes from the water pump -> Heater core inlet -> Heater core outlet -> Throttle Body.

And then I will have to run a hose from the front of the intake manifold and up to the throttle body??...

 

Flow goes from intake>TB>heater core>radiator on standard TPI setup. I am not acquainted with the carb'd style of going to the water pump. But, I would assume that that fitting on the water pump housing is actually and inlet not an outlet. So, you would go intake>TB>heater core>water pump.

Or, you can bypass the TB, and go straight from the intake to the heater core. Might not be advisable if you think there is a risk of throttle body icing during winter months.

 

I guess you are right on the water pump that it is an inlet.
On my radiator there are " BIG hoses coming from...One lower and one upper.
The lower one goes up to the water pump. The upper hose goes to the termostat housing on the intake manifold. Then I guess I have to get an hose between the intake manifold-front and to the TB. And one from the side on the TB to the Heater core, and one from heater core back to the water pump.

 

Yep, sound right to me.

Another thing you might want to check is the clearance needed for the small hose and fitting on the water pump housing. There might be an issue with it hitting one of the sensors on the front of the intake manifold. If it is an issue, it may be able to be solved with a 45 or 90 degree fitting instead of the straight one.

 

You are absolutely right...I was going to ask that question now actually...There is like you say a straight fitting going out of the water pump.
That means there is VERY small clearence for the small hose going from intake to TB and for the sensors....I guess I just have to get another fitting then.

Do you know what kind of threads there are on that fitting?...

Thanks alot for the help..It really help me out on my project...

 

Unfortunately, I don't know what threads are on the fitting. If I had to guess I would say NPT, but I wouldn't know what size or pitch. If you can take the old fitting with you while you are out looking for a new one, that would probably work best.

Good luck.

 

You really dont need to run the coolant through the throttle body... That helps in the winter but it isnt nessesary. Really all you need is the lower radiator hose from the radiator to the water pump, then a hose from the water neck on the intake to the inlet for the heater core then a return line from the heater core to the radiator.