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Hot running issues, trouble starting

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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 12:44 PM
  #1  
bigtoyz's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 16
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From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: 350 w/650cfm carb
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi
Hot running issues, trouble starting

OK guys, i can use some help with this one. I have an 88 IROC with a 350 engine of uncertain origin. The guy I bought the car from had started an engine swap and quit halfway through. I got the car running and retained the original induction system, etc from the old engine which was a 305. I installed new starter, plugs, wires, distributor, coil, etc and the car runs pretty well.

The car starts immediately when cold but has a high idle. I'm not sure of actual RPM as the guages are not accurate. Idle does not drop as the engine warms up and engine floods out immediately if I try to start it with a hot engine. Also, the cooling fans do not operate while the engine is running although the left fan turns during startup. I am hesitant to let engine idle too long a standstill as temp guage is not functional.

I am thinking a coolant temp switch or thermostat. Am I on the right track?

Eric
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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 11:57 AM
  #2  
NINÅ's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 10
From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
TRACK KNACK


Yes, it sounds like the temperature sensor that reports to the ECM.


Happy Racing!

If People Drove Any Slower They’d Be Going Backwards

Fog lights are not driving lights. They look dorky. Turn em off slow pokes.

How bout those dorks too scared to drive without headlights on in the daytime!

.
.

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Old Aug 19, 2009 | 07:28 PM
  #3  
bigtoyz's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: 350 w/650cfm carb
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi
Re: TRACK KNACK

I did change the temp sensor and it made a difference in the idle speed and the hot-start flooding. I am now having issues with the fan switches, partially becasue I cannot locate the primary thermal switch for the fan. I know where it is SUPPOSED to be on the block, but I guess the engine did not have this in it's original installation.

The result is that I have decided to go with manual fan switches for now, maybe chaning to a digital controller down the road. I would like to find an "ignition on" source to feed the fan switches. Any suggestions as to the best place to tap in?
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Old Aug 20, 2009 | 09:55 AM
  #4  
NINÅ's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 10
From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
TRACK KNACK


The FAN FUSE is ‘hot’ when the key is in the RUN position.

You can use that line.

Make sure you choose the post-fuse side of the fuse so the circuit will be protected.


Happy Racing!

If People Drove Any Slower They’d Be Going Backwards

Fog lights are not driving lights. They look dorky. Turn em off slow pokes.

How bout those dorks too scared to drive without headlights on in the daytime!

.
.

Reply
Old Aug 22, 2009 | 12:49 PM
  #5  
bigtoyz's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: 350 w/650cfm carb
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi
Re: TRACK KNACK

Is there any reason not to use a jumper from the power wire to the fan feed and bypss the two relays? Seems like this would be an easy fix.
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