Hello! Sorry if this is a repeat of an old concern, but I'm new to this forum-stuff. I have an '89 RS 5.0L TBI w/approx 170K on it. There is a clacking/buzzing sound coming from the A/C compressor - sounds like when we used to clip a playing card onto the spokes of our bicycles. I'm pretty sure I just need to recharge the system. I don't really care if the A/C works all that well (I like open windows!) - I just want to stop the noise.

Can I use one of those $50 R134 "conversion" kits and just fill the system that way? Anybody have any experience with that?

Thanks!

 

There's more to swapping to 134a than just filling the freon - but a kit should have all you need to do it. You have to evacuate the R-12 first I think - I don't think you can just add the 134a to the R-12. They use different oils and I don't think they mix together.

 

These compressors are really noisy compared to newer systems. You will have to flush the entire system and replace your drier as well as the orfice tube. You will also need to replace all the o-rings in the system (2 at the condensor, 2 at the evaporator, one at the drier, and the combo seal at the compressor.) Not too hard to do.

 

Since your not too concerned with the A/C working well you can always remove it. Replace the AC compressor with a bypass pulley, then you can jerk all the A.C stuff out. Dorman part# 34157 ranges anywhere from $30 - $50. It uses the same braket as the Compressor, and uses the same belt. Note: Any remaining R12 in the system should be captured and disposed of properly.

 

Sounds like the ac clutch is/going bad even if u refill the noise would probly still be there unlease u run the ac on 24/7 delete it get a pully or shorter belt or replace it check ebay

 

A shorter belt will be worthless both the 305 and the 350 have the water pump rotating the opposite way of the crank, which means a bypass pulley MUST be used if removing the compressor. You are right however about the noise filling the system will make no differnece. It will without a doubt be cheaper to byass than replace the compressor, unless you really want the ac there. Removing it alos helps to clean up the engine bay a bit.

 

He can run a shorter belt as long as he has his smog pump cant delete both but can delete 1 or the other

 

To use the smog pump you would have to use an adjustable alternator bracket to tension the belt as the tensioner is directly off the ac comprssor, and even then I wouldn't do it. It will not work simply with the smog and the shorter belt. But go ahead and try, let me know how that works out for ya

 

Many have and many more will continue to do it

 

No im sorry your wrong it will not work, you will not have proper tension or proper belt contact with the water pump, and im pretty sure there is a whole forum that will back me on that. If you could get by with out a delete pulley more people would do do it. Post a picture of a sbc with the routing your suggesting (that doesnt chew up belts and destroy water pumps every 4000 miles) and I will admit im wrong. Even with deleting the smog pump and using an a/c bypass pulley you need a longer belt and need to change the routing of the belt.

 

You know ... I've always thought that you could remove the A/C, leave the smog pump, and reroute a different length belt without having to purchase a A/C delete pulley. BUT - the more I study the pics from www.thirdgen.org/serpentine - the more I think maybe it wouldn't work without an A/C delete pulley. But I've never personally tried with real parts (all I've ever done was look at the pics).

But, you could spend the $30 on a standard rotation water pump, and then it could easily be done. Kinda messes up the intention of doing to delete on the cheap, but there's no reason why you couldn't use a standard rotation pump rather than the delete pulley and then reroute a belt.

 

Never threw out a parts list just simple said it could be done with out the pully. didnt even say that it was the best way! Again just stated it could be done. When i run into a problem and ask for help i like hearing diff options on how ro fix and then way those options and choose my path to correction. Dont know about u but when 1 tells me this is the only way to do something i usualy try to find a different way just for the hell of it and im not talking about slap together hillrod jobs either. yes there will need parts to be replaced/installed but again just stateing it can be done if he dont want a useless empty pully there

 

Thanks for all the good ideas & advice. Now, all I have to do is sell my '77 Type LT and throw some coin at the '89 RS!

I'll post results when I have 'em.

Thanks again!!