My v6 is overheating, the garage I bought it from scanned some codes for me due to issues with idling and such. The codes came back as Coolant temp sensor and O2 sensor, I have replaced them and no more idling issues, but my temperature is still running hott. Itll seem to be fine for a little bit then run hot but more so running hot. Could it be a head gasket or egr valve? im unsure

Does it overheat while idling and going slow around town or when you are driving faster, like on the freeway? If it's the second you need to see if your airdam is intact/there. Have you checked to see that the fan is working and when? That info would help seeing the problem. And what are you considering as hot, and what does it do to make you think it's hot?

Its more so at lower speed, the fans seem to be working fine haven't really looked at it but I'm unsure if what the air dam is or whereabouts I could find it. The temp gauge says its just about in the red

If it's at low speeds it's probably not an airdam issue. When you have some time, try letting it warm up in the driveway or wherever you park. The temp should begin to rise. with the hood up, feel the top radiator hose and squeeze it a tad. It should give a little and not feel too hot. From either inside the car watch for the temp to rise to the temp of the thermostat. When that temp is reached, the upper hose should get hot, feel tighter like water is passing through it, and the temp gauge should go down a bit with the cooler water entering. When the temp rises again watch to see what temp the fan comes on at and if this causes the temp to go down while the fan runs. Failure for these things to happen can point to the problem. What results do you get?

The fan does not come on at all I let it run and it started bubbling

Bubbling from where? In the overflow tank?

I think so I just heard it

yeah i had some issues with that to in my 86 iroc, what i did was went to a 180 thermo, and got a controllable fan switch (electric fans) and problem solved.

Probably not the problem your having but when my father and I worked on our Dakota, It had a cracked cylinder head and had the same overheating issues as you do.

I believe on the V6 cars, there is a Coolant Temp Sensor, located on the intake close to the thermostat. It has a black and a yellow wire to it, replace it.

There might also be a fan switch, would be in the pass side head (not the block), with a single wire to it, might need replaced as well.

Here's a tech article on common fan issues: http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=36

With engine running, when you turn on the AC does that cause the fan to turn on? If not suspect fan relay or fan motor. Does the AC work OK?

I'm just gonna wire a switch and put a new thermostat in it and see what comes of it

And the AC doesn't run well at all

Ewwww! Please, don't 'rig' a switch. There's a thousand members here that have had to deal with previous owners 'rigging a switch' for the fan. At the very least, get a $30 fan controller that probes the radiator.

And if you insist on 'rigging' a switch, do it correctly and use a relay! You shouldn't be running high amp wires into the cabin area, you're dying for a fire doing that. Besides, most off-the-shelf toggles nowadays are cheap junk that won't actually handle the amps they are rated for, and you need 30 amps rating minimum and 10-12gauge wiring - all that expense and you could incorporate a $8 relay and then use 18ga wiring and any old toggle switch with no hazard issues. I'd be happy to post up a wiring diag with the relay in place if you need.

I just changed the Coolant fan switch on my 1991 camaro rs and my fan is still kicking in at 250 degrees, it should be kicking in around 230. Can some one help?

Mines does this exactly! Do you know what I need to do to get rid of it heating up. I just put a new radiator & thermostat in.

Ewww! Nooooo! Get one that uses an in manifold sensor. I've never seen a rad-probe last. They break off too easy, and the derale kit I have is the same price for either style.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-16720/

Id replace your stock switch with this...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HYP-4028/

The only problem with that is that it keeps the rest of the factory system, including that turd of a relay that the general saw fit to give us. Before I put in the derale kit above, I was changing those relays monthly, despite installing a new harness and fan motor. And it keeps AC request, or allows for a manual switch as well. Can even keep the stock fan with it by connecting the hot fan lead to the factory harness.

I dont know why you were changing the relay monthly, you may have a short somewhere or something. Possible bad connector to the relay. But I like to keep my stock system with that switch and a 180* stat and its fine for me.

I replaced the connector three times, and it was the power to fan portion of the relay. I ran a whole new wire from that terminal, too. I had this same problem on my 86 2.8l as well. Kinda figured that when all the Camaros I ever owned had crap relays that it was a systematic problem.