antifreeze
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 19
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: antifreeze
If your running straight water now, antifreeze won't help any overheating problem. So you need to find out why the car is overheating. Fans working? Air dam in place? Timing set correctly? Water pump working?
But also - if you don't have any antifreeze now, you need it! It keeps the insides from rusting. Even though straight water is generally cooler, it's not good for an engine/waterpump - straight water rusts, and has no lubricating properties for the water pump.
Standard old green antifreeze, mixed 50/50 with water, is optimal. No "brand names" are any better than any other "non-brands" - it's all the same chemical.
But also - if you don't have any antifreeze now, you need it! It keeps the insides from rusting. Even though straight water is generally cooler, it's not good for an engine/waterpump - straight water rusts, and has no lubricating properties for the water pump.
Standard old green antifreeze, mixed 50/50 with water, is optimal. No "brand names" are any better than any other "non-brands" - it's all the same chemical.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Re: antifreeze
i know this is going to sound like a stupid question but how would i go about checking these things? I'm only 17 with limited tools so if you can let me know what tools i will need to check this thanks alot
junior.
junior.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,204
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Re: antifreeze
I like 50/50 green with water wetter. Don't go swapping stuff in just yet though.
Visually check air dam. Black plastic wedge under the radiator. If it's missing or broken replace it.
Visually check the fans are working. They should be running once the car is hot or the ac is on. If not you will need a multimeter/voltimeter to check for power. If it has power verify connections look clean. If it doesn't try jumping them with extra wire to the battery or swapping the relay around to see if it works. Sometimes when you check the relay on the connection side its burnt meaning its arcing. Relays should be on the driverside firewall.
Replace the radiator cap. No tools needed.
Replace thermostat. You'll need housing gasket and some wrenchs, towel, and some coolant to top off with. They can fail shut, open, or etc. A good thermostat should allow the motor to warm up to rated temp on the thermostat then open allowing coolant to circulate and the temp should drop.
Visually check your upper and lower radiator hoses look good (no cracks, not pinched shut).
Visually check air dam. Black plastic wedge under the radiator. If it's missing or broken replace it.
Visually check the fans are working. They should be running once the car is hot or the ac is on. If not you will need a multimeter/voltimeter to check for power. If it has power verify connections look clean. If it doesn't try jumping them with extra wire to the battery or swapping the relay around to see if it works. Sometimes when you check the relay on the connection side its burnt meaning its arcing. Relays should be on the driverside firewall.
Replace the radiator cap. No tools needed.
Replace thermostat. You'll need housing gasket and some wrenchs, towel, and some coolant to top off with. They can fail shut, open, or etc. A good thermostat should allow the motor to warm up to rated temp on the thermostat then open allowing coolant to circulate and the temp should drop.
Visually check your upper and lower radiator hoses look good (no cracks, not pinched shut).
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Ward
Tech / General Engine
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May 31, 2001 12:12 PM
