cooling fan toggle switch
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cooling fan toggle switch
Hey guys, I'm trying to put a toggle switch behind my shifter so I can turn my cooling fan on and off manually. I have the fans out right now and was going to wire them directly to my battery. I know that a circuit needs to be a continuous loop but I do not know how to reduce the power from the battery to the fans. I have the dual fan set up and two wiring harnesses. This is what I have brainstormed so far, I just need someone with more experience to correct my theory. I moved my battery to the truck so where the battery used to be I now have a splittable connection that I can tie into easily with an eye loop end for the fans. The eye loop is the beginning and end tying into the positive and negative lines. The line starts at the positive then comes the toggle switch inside the car then fans 1 and 2 then a fusible link then back to the negative cable of the battery. This does not seem safe to me. Any pointers about relays and fuses and whatever else you can think of would be a huge help. Thanks
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
Screw a bunch of "my theory". Concentrate instead on HOW THINGS WORK. It's not "theory", it's FACT.
OK:
Put the fans back in.
Plug EVERYTHING back in JUST LIKE the factory made it. Don't change ANYTHING.
Next:
DO NOT hack into the battery wiring IN ANY WAY. That's the wrong place.
Now look at the fan relay: you will see a big fat red wire going to it (battery), another big fat wire I can't recall the color going to the fan motor (orange maybe? iunno), a small wire that's red or orange or pink (ignition), and another small wire that goes to the fan switch (green or green w/white stripe).
Now go to Wikipedia and look up "relay", and study that until you understand what a "relay" is and what it does.
Now come back to your car. All you have to do to get the fan to turn on whenever YOU want it to, is to make that relay operate whenever YOU want it to in addition to when the fan switch wants it to. Capische?
Therefore: all you have to do to make the relay operate, is to duplicate what the fan switch does to it; which is, it GROUNDS the green/white wire when it wants the fan to come on. Eh????? So all YOU have to do to make the fan come on any time YOU want, is to ground that same wire.
Leave EVERYTHING that has to do with "battery" ALONE. All you gotta do is add a switch with one lead going to ground, and the other tied to that green/white wire.
Pretty simple, eh?? Electricity in a car is one of the SIMPLEST electrical systems there is. Even an epsilon double-minus moron like ME can "get it", so it's GOTTA be within the grasp of someone with higher intelligence like yourself.
OK:
Put the fans back in.
Plug EVERYTHING back in JUST LIKE the factory made it. Don't change ANYTHING.
Next:
DO NOT hack into the battery wiring IN ANY WAY. That's the wrong place.
Now look at the fan relay: you will see a big fat red wire going to it (battery), another big fat wire I can't recall the color going to the fan motor (orange maybe? iunno), a small wire that's red or orange or pink (ignition), and another small wire that goes to the fan switch (green or green w/white stripe).
Now go to Wikipedia and look up "relay", and study that until you understand what a "relay" is and what it does.
Now come back to your car. All you have to do to get the fan to turn on whenever YOU want it to, is to make that relay operate whenever YOU want it to in addition to when the fan switch wants it to. Capische?
Therefore: all you have to do to make the relay operate, is to duplicate what the fan switch does to it; which is, it GROUNDS the green/white wire when it wants the fan to come on. Eh????? So all YOU have to do to make the fan come on any time YOU want, is to ground that same wire.
Leave EVERYTHING that has to do with "battery" ALONE. All you gotta do is add a switch with one lead going to ground, and the other tied to that green/white wire.
Pretty simple, eh?? Electricity in a car is one of the SIMPLEST electrical systems there is. Even an epsilon double-minus moron like ME can "get it", so it's GOTTA be within the grasp of someone with higher intelligence like yourself.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
thanks for the explanation. I spent all day messing with this thing. The fans and everything are back in but my relays are completely corroded. This is the reason why my fans never turned on and the reason why I started cutting the fan harness up. I have all the stock wiring in place except for the fan harness. I ran a switch to behind my shifter connected it to both fans and have to open ends that I can put on the battery and that gets the fans to run. When I turn the ignition nothing happens and I am stuck at this point. Is there an easier way to say forget using the stock wiring and just hook up to power some how like i had planned.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
another way, maybe not as good, but you can run the hot wires from the fans to a junction block (where there is the power wires for the starter\celenoid or lights.etc. connect the grounds to one side of the switch, make a ground wire to obviously ground out somewhere, and hook that wire to the other side of the switch. or vise versa , hook the pos. to the switch(a higher amperage switch, or you'll melt a cheap low amp one) need an inline fuse on the pos. atleast 35 A
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
Does this diagram help any ,of course the lights in the photo would be replaced with a fan/fans. May be some one can make a few alterations to the schematic so it applies to the situation at hand otherwise this is going to run independent of the stock wiring. I did this with a auxiliary fan that comes on and off with the ignition, and left the stock fan as a back up.=
Last edited by Ron U.S.M.C.; 08-25-2011 at 12:55 AM. Reason: add info.
#6
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
I just hooked up a hot wire from my fuse box to a dash switch then to a fuse then
to the fan motor. EASY!
I should of hooked it up to a switched ignition hot lead so it would be running when
the car was running....................Then no switch necessary !
IGNORE the "purists" that are bustin' your chops to FIX the factory relay system.
Most of these cars fan wiring was butchered long ago let alone finding someone who knows how to fix the factory fan wiring/relays (except for this forum) and the cooler they run the better!
A better fix is to hit the parts yard and get a old fashioned mechanical fan and shroud
(as I did recently).
to the fan motor. EASY!
I should of hooked it up to a switched ignition hot lead so it would be running when
the car was running....................Then no switch necessary !
IGNORE the "purists" that are bustin' your chops to FIX the factory relay system.
Most of these cars fan wiring was butchered long ago let alone finding someone who knows how to fix the factory fan wiring/relays (except for this forum) and the cooler they run the better!
A better fix is to hit the parts yard and get a old fashioned mechanical fan and shroud
(as I did recently).
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
The diagram in post # 5 will allow the fan/fans to come on and go off with the ignition if its attached to a switched lead in the box as long as the "new" switch is in the on position.
Last edited by Ron U.S.M.C.; 08-14-2011 at 11:56 PM.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
Screw a bunch of "my theory". Concentrate instead on HOW THINGS WORK. It's not "theory", it's FACT.
OK:
Put the fans back in.
Plug EVERYTHING back in JUST LIKE the factory made it. Don't change ANYTHING.
Next:
DO NOT hack into the battery wiring IN ANY WAY. That's the wrong place.
Now look at the fan relay: you will see a big fat red wire going to it (battery), another big fat wire I can't recall the color going to the fan motor (orange maybe? iunno), a small wire that's red or orange or pink (ignition), and another small wire that goes to the fan switch (green or green w/white stripe).
Now go to Wikipedia and look up "relay", and study that until you understand what a "relay" is and what it does.
Now come back to your car. All you have to do to get the fan to turn on whenever YOU want it to, is to make that relay operate whenever YOU want it to in addition to when the fan switch wants it to. Capische?
Therefore: all you have to do to make the relay operate, is to duplicate what the fan switch does to it; which is, it GROUNDS the green/white wire when it wants the fan to come on. Eh????? So all YOU have to do to make the fan come on any time YOU want, is to ground that same wire.
Leave EVERYTHING that has to do with "battery" ALONE. All you gotta do is add a switch with one lead going to ground, and the other tied to that green/white wire.
Pretty simple, eh?? Electricity in a car is one of the SIMPLEST electrical systems there is. Even an epsilon double-minus moron like ME can "get it", so it's GOTTA be within the grasp of someone with higher intelligence like yourself.
OK:
Put the fans back in.
Plug EVERYTHING back in JUST LIKE the factory made it. Don't change ANYTHING.
Next:
DO NOT hack into the battery wiring IN ANY WAY. That's the wrong place.
Now look at the fan relay: you will see a big fat red wire going to it (battery), another big fat wire I can't recall the color going to the fan motor (orange maybe? iunno), a small wire that's red or orange or pink (ignition), and another small wire that goes to the fan switch (green or green w/white stripe).
Now go to Wikipedia and look up "relay", and study that until you understand what a "relay" is and what it does.
Now come back to your car. All you have to do to get the fan to turn on whenever YOU want it to, is to make that relay operate whenever YOU want it to in addition to when the fan switch wants it to. Capische?
Therefore: all you have to do to make the relay operate, is to duplicate what the fan switch does to it; which is, it GROUNDS the green/white wire when it wants the fan to come on. Eh????? So all YOU have to do to make the fan come on any time YOU want, is to ground that same wire.
Leave EVERYTHING that has to do with "battery" ALONE. All you gotta do is add a switch with one lead going to ground, and the other tied to that green/white wire.
Pretty simple, eh?? Electricity in a car is one of the SIMPLEST electrical systems there is. Even an epsilon double-minus moron like ME can "get it", so it's GOTTA be within the grasp of someone with higher intelligence like yourself.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
If wired as I described, no fuse required. The only current that the switch carries is just the relay coil current. Very tiny. And, since there's no battery on any of the wires, it's not possible to draw too much current; even if the wires get hard shorted to ground, the only current they will carry is coil current, and the only thing that will happen is the relay will operate and turn on the fan. Far short of disaster.
Ron's diagram for the fog lights is somewhat similar, except that there's unfused hard battery on the switch wiring, so if anything goes wrong with that, stuff burns up. Plus, his indicator doesn't show that the lights are actually getting power; all it shows, is that the switch is calling for power. So for instance if the main power fuse blows, the indicator will be on, but the lights won't; not a big deal for fog lights maybe, but definitely an opportunity for improvement if it's fans. I'd wire the indicator in parallel with the fan motor, such that the light will not be on unless the fan is ABSOLUTELY POSITIVELY being powered. If you were to create a circuit like Ron's for the fan, and your fuse blew, you'd be sitting there with that light happily glowing in your face and lying to you, while your motor burned up.
Yes in fact I do work as an electrical engineer designing hospital operating room electrical power systems. Granted, a car isn't typically designed to that same level of reliability and robustness; but hey, if you can get that kind of bullet-proofing FOR FREE (no extra parts required) just by thinking ahead, why not. I do ALL my designs, out of long years of habit, NOT ONLY to do what they're supposed to when working right, BUT ALSO with as much thought as possible to what will happen if something goes wrong.
Ron's diagram for the fog lights is somewhat similar, except that there's unfused hard battery on the switch wiring, so if anything goes wrong with that, stuff burns up. Plus, his indicator doesn't show that the lights are actually getting power; all it shows, is that the switch is calling for power. So for instance if the main power fuse blows, the indicator will be on, but the lights won't; not a big deal for fog lights maybe, but definitely an opportunity for improvement if it's fans. I'd wire the indicator in parallel with the fan motor, such that the light will not be on unless the fan is ABSOLUTELY POSITIVELY being powered. If you were to create a circuit like Ron's for the fan, and your fuse blew, you'd be sitting there with that light happily glowing in your face and lying to you, while your motor burned up.
Yes in fact I do work as an electrical engineer designing hospital operating room electrical power systems. Granted, a car isn't typically designed to that same level of reliability and robustness; but hey, if you can get that kind of bullet-proofing FOR FREE (no extra parts required) just by thinking ahead, why not. I do ALL my designs, out of long years of habit, NOT ONLY to do what they're supposed to when working right, BUT ALSO with as much thought as possible to what will happen if something goes wrong.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
That mindset sounds dangerously like an engineer eh sofa?
The factory setup is very good - if at all possible i'd just replace the broken/corroded parts, and leave it as is. It seems like far too many people have butchered their fan control systems in their cars. I hate that. Having to remember to turn on the fan all the time? ugh, no thanks. Whenever possible, leave it factory, with a temperature switch, and nothing the operator can screw up.
Do not get a mechanical fan setup - that's a horrible idea. Those are garbage.
The factory setup is very good - if at all possible i'd just replace the broken/corroded parts, and leave it as is. It seems like far too many people have butchered their fan control systems in their cars. I hate that. Having to remember to turn on the fan all the time? ugh, no thanks. Whenever possible, leave it factory, with a temperature switch, and nothing the operator can screw up.
Do not get a mechanical fan setup - that's a horrible idea. Those are garbage.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
mindset sounds dangerously like an engineer eh
I started cutting the fan harness up
"Modifying" something because it's messed up, when it's THAT EASY to fix it right, is never a good plan. Usually all that happens is, one bad hack turns into 2 or 3 more even worse hacks, and pretty soon there's nothing unhacked left to hack any more but it still doesn't work. Don't go down that slippery slope.
Last edited by sofakingdom; 08-15-2011 at 07:44 PM.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
If wired as I described, no fuse required. The only current that the switch carries is just the relay coil current. Very tiny. And, since there's no battery on any of the wires, it's not possible to draw too much current; even if the wires get hard shorted to ground, the only current they will carry is coil current, and the only thing that will happen is the relay will operate and turn on the fan. Far short of disaster.
...
...
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
Ok Sofa. What I have on my car is a wire from hot side of fan that I have to plug into my fuse box. And a a ground. Single fan. I want mine to run as stock, but cooler, but also have toggle if I want to leave it on for a minute to cool or if I know I will be in a lot of seattle trafic. I have no fan relay or ecm. All I have is wire to gauge and those I just mentioned. I simple cave man terms can you point me in right direction and /or have a simple diagram to guide me. Even better if I coud turn it on with my existing rear wiper swith in my dash, but wiper is gone, that would be cool.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
Fans draw a lot of current. The circuit MUST be protected by fuse link, and the power MUST be switched by a relay.
If you're starting from zero, a junkyard harness, as mentioned above, is a great idea. On the control side of the relay, wire in a temp switch that closes to ground at the temp you want. And if you really want manual control, wire a toggle switch into the same wire so it can get ground by your command.
If you're starting from zero, a junkyard harness, as mentioned above, is a great idea. On the control side of the relay, wire in a temp switch that closes to ground at the temp you want. And if you really want manual control, wire a toggle switch into the same wire so it can get ground by your command.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
Unfortunatly I live close to Seattle and the greenies have made junkyard a thing of the past so they are far and few inbetween. I was thinking it would be just easier to start from scratch.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
If you cannot get a used harness, a new fan control setup might be the way to go:
http://www.haydenauto.com/New%20Prod...r/Content.aspx
http://www.haydenauto.com/New%20Prod...r/Content.aspx
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
I have the green/white stripe wire hooked to a toggle under my dash of each of my camaros. When it is hot and I am in traffic, I have the fan running on manual override. When It is cool, and moving 35 mph or more I leave the fan off. I watch my gauges all the time, and I do not forget to turn them on. I do not believe in relying on the factory fan switch, or the lousy connector that attaches to it. Many engines have needlessly fried due to faulty relays, fan switches and the connectors. I just replaced the fan switch, AND the connector which I believe was the culprit. If I didn't have the override toggle and I didn't watch my gauges, I would have overheated for sure.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
I hooked mine up to my rear wiper switch. I spretty sweet. I don't have a temp switch in it tey, but seems to be east enough.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
Ok, sorry for bringing this thread back up but I have a few questions, I understand what has been dicussed so far on this thread, and I have a general understanding of how toggle switches work, but I would like to iron some things out. My car recently had a 383 installed in it and I swithed over to a carb set up, the mechanic who installed m engine set up the fan to run whenever the key is turned on. I do not know exactly what he did to do this but from what I can tell he has the fan rewired to a what I think is one hot or power wire with a fuse and what I assume is a ground wire. I do not know where these are hooked up into the interior of the car but I can follow the two wires from the fan to a fuse to the fire wall. I want to add a toggle swith so could I tap into the power wire behind the fuse an run it to a toggle switch, then run the other terminal to another ground, thus when I turn the switch on it will allow the fan to work and then when I turn it off it grounds it so it turns off. Does this sound right/ will it work....is it safe... or is there something else I should do? thanks for the help.
Last edited by MSRed91Camaro; 11-08-2011 at 02:14 PM.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
check to see if they just grounded out the green wire with a white stripe on the fan relay. doing that will cause the fan to run whenever the key is turned on. if thats the case, all you have to do to get it back to stock type operation is put in a thermal switch(of what ever on and off temp you want) in the head (like stock). and wire the green wire with white stripe to that switch.
i recently went from a cheap adjustable fan controller to a stock type setup. i have a thermal switch from summit with an on temp of 200 and off temp of 180. and have it running on a standard spdt relay. basically the same setup as stock. cost me a total of $30.
i recently went from a cheap adjustable fan controller to a stock type setup. i have a thermal switch from summit with an on temp of 200 and off temp of 180. and have it running on a standard spdt relay. basically the same setup as stock. cost me a total of $30.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
check to see if they just grounded out the green wire with a white stripe on the fan relay. doing that will cause the fan to run whenever the key is turned on. if thats the case, all you have to do to get it back to stock type operation is put in a thermal switch(of what ever on and off temp you want) in the head (like stock). and wire the green wire with white stripe to that switch.
i recently went from a cheap adjustable fan controller to a stock type setup. i have a thermal switch from summit with an on temp of 200 and off temp of 180. and have it running on a standard spdt relay. basically the same setup as stock. cost me a total of $30.
i recently went from a cheap adjustable fan controller to a stock type setup. i have a thermal switch from summit with an on temp of 200 and off temp of 180. and have it running on a standard spdt relay. basically the same setup as stock. cost me a total of $30.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
temp sensor and fan switch are 2 different things. the temp sensor is what the ecm uses to tell what temp the car is running. the fan switch doesnt communicate with the ecm at all, it just grounds the relay when it reaches whatever temp its set for.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
the switch is in the head. the knock sensor is whats in the block by the starter. i got the switch a while ago when the motor was stock and just never used it.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
did a quick search on summit and theres on with a 190 on, 180 off for $28.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
Ok.... I know this is old and I'm sorry, but when I googled my issue it sent me here.
When I bought my car the fans were ghetto wired, and never worked... The temp gauge never worked either. So I found the temp sensor and connection, plugged it back up and now the temp sensor works, but the fans do not engage.
I went out today and took a look at everything and traced wires and here's what I came up with:
Dual fans from factory:
2-yellow wires
2-black wires
1-green wire
The yellows are connected and wired to the factory wiring using a non factory wire
The blacks are wired together to the factory wire with a non factory wire
The green wire was not connected to anything... We ran a tester wire to the battery and the fans came on..... My question is where is the green wire supposed to go?????? This will help my car stop over heating in traffic and if I can't find where it went, I will wire it to a switch..... Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks
When I bought my car the fans were ghetto wired, and never worked... The temp gauge never worked either. So I found the temp sensor and connection, plugged it back up and now the temp sensor works, but the fans do not engage.
I went out today and took a look at everything and traced wires and here's what I came up with:
Dual fans from factory:
2-yellow wires
2-black wires
1-green wire
The yellows are connected and wired to the factory wiring using a non factory wire
The blacks are wired together to the factory wire with a non factory wire
The green wire was not connected to anything... We ran a tester wire to the battery and the fans came on..... My question is where is the green wire supposed to go?????? This will help my car stop over heating in traffic and if I can't find where it went, I will wire it to a switch..... Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
As everyone else here has beaten into you... it is absolutely necessary to run the fans through a relay (and a fuse). I ran a wire from a junction box near the battery to a fuse holder (30A fuse for my single fan) then to a relay, then to the fans, and then to ground. Then all you do is just run switched power to your other two terminals on the relay. Get a positive from the fuse box or better any switched power source inside the car. There's a fuse box slot that is perfect for this actually. And run that to a switch, and run that to the relay, then run the other side to ground.
Its really not that bad. The relay will have a little diagram on top of it.
Its really not that bad. The relay will have a little diagram on top of it.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
Wait.... This is the first time I have posted on this thread.... All I need to know is where the green wire from the factory "denso" dual blade fan: 2- yellow wires 2-black wires and 1-GREEN wire, where is the green wire supposed to run from the factory? That's what I asked
#31
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
the only green wire in the cooling system is the single green wire that runs the temp gauge.... then theres the yellow and black wire that plugs into the temp sensor for the ecm which is located on the front of the manifold.
unless youre talking about the green wire with a white stripe, that wire goes to the fan temp switch
and if you have dual fans in an rs with a 305...they didnt come stock.
unless youre talking about the green wire with a white stripe, that wire goes to the fan temp switch
and if you have dual fans in an rs with a 305...they didnt come stock.
#32
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
This is the third rs I have owned 90,91,92 and all had 305 dual fans... This is the dual harness plugs, they plug into the fan motors.... There are a black and a yellow wire to both motors, BUT!!! There is a green, solid green, wire coming from the left, looking at it from the top, fan motor wiring harness... It has no white stripe. The wire, when ran to the battery cuts the fans on, idk where that wire is supposed to go.
#33
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
only the tpi cars got dual fans. so yes you can have a 305 tpi with dual fans. but in 91, the rs didnt come with a 305 tpi, it was the z28 that got the 305 tpi and the 350 tpi.
so again, if you have dual fans in a 91 rs, they didnt come from the factory. since they didnt come from the factory, theres no telling how the PO hacked up the wiring harness to put them in. take some pics of everything and maybe we can help sort it out.
so again, if you have dual fans in a 91 rs, they didnt come from the factory. since they didnt come from the factory, theres no telling how the PO hacked up the wiring harness to put them in. take some pics of everything and maybe we can help sort it out.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
Well, must be a coincidence that my one owner 90 rs 305 tbi had dual fans and my 92 25th anniversary camaro 305 tbi rs had dual fans, factory wiring, and my 91 all have dual fans.... This one has been gunked all to pieces:
This is the, top view, left plug to fan
The right plug
And the disaster, wire left disconnected:
This is the, top view, left plug to fan
The right plug
And the disaster, wire left disconnected:
#35
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
"Denso" electrical parts are usually found on japanese
imports and also the plugs are not original thirdgen-
looks like the dual fan setup was salvaged from some
other car and adapted.
imports and also the plugs are not original thirdgen-
looks like the dual fan setup was salvaged from some
other car and adapted.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
Well in that case that the mysterious green wire connected to the battery powers the fan, I have no choice but to run a switch then? With that being said, I don't need the fan all the time, just when I'm sitting.... I can run the wire to a breaker/relay to toggle to ignition space in fuse box, it will only run if ignition is on or if the switch is on, right?
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
No... My wire doesn't have a white stripe, although tomorrow afternoon, when I get off work I will see about the wire on the passengers side and see if by connecting the green wire to it, maybe it'll work.
#39
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
in the dual fan setup, one fan is controlled completely by the ecm, the second fan is run off the fan relay and is tripped from the fan switch in the head. (which is why no rs came with dual fans, the tbi computer doesnt have the control circuit in it to run the fan). since yours isnt stock and theres no telling what those fans came from, id remove the mess the PO made and start from scratch. you can run both fans from the fan relay, or if the fan relay is not there anymore, you can always pick up a relay (or 2, one per fan if you wanna go that way) from the local parts house and wire them.
wiring new relays is simple. the +12v in to the battery, the trigger to a switched 12v source, the +12v out to the fan, and the ground to the fan switch.
doing it that way, both fans turn on when the fan switch reaches temp, and will turn off when you turn the key off, so it doesnt drain your battery.
if you wanna get a lil more complicated you can wire in another relay in to turn the fans on when the ac comes on, just like stock. or just wire in a toggle switch to turn them on.
i tore the stock wiring harness out of my car with the last engine swap and built one from scratch. i have a single 2600cfm fan on a relay wired into a lower than stock temp fan switch and a secondary smaller 800cfm fan on the ac condenser that runs with the ac on.
wiring new relays is simple. the +12v in to the battery, the trigger to a switched 12v source, the +12v out to the fan, and the ground to the fan switch.
doing it that way, both fans turn on when the fan switch reaches temp, and will turn off when you turn the key off, so it doesnt drain your battery.
if you wanna get a lil more complicated you can wire in another relay in to turn the fans on when the ac comes on, just like stock. or just wire in a toggle switch to turn them on.
i tore the stock wiring harness out of my car with the last engine swap and built one from scratch. i have a single 2600cfm fan on a relay wired into a lower than stock temp fan switch and a secondary smaller 800cfm fan on the ac condenser that runs with the ac on.
#40
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
in the dual fan setup, one fan is controlled completely by the ecm, the second fan is run off the fan relay and is tripped from the fan switch in the head. (which is why no rs came with dual fans, the tbi computer doesnt have the control circuit in it to run the fan). since yours isnt stock and theres no telling what those fans came from, id remove the mess the PO made and start from scratch. you can run both fans from the fan relay, or if the fan relay is not there anymore, you can always pick up a relay (or 2, one per fan if you wanna go that way) from the local parts house and wire them.
wiring new relays is simple. the +12v in to the battery, the trigger to a switched 12v source, the +12v out to the fan, and the ground to the fan switch.
doing it that way, both fans turn on when the fan switch reaches temp, and will turn off when you turn the key off, so it doesnt drain your battery.
if you wanna get a lil more complicated you can wire in another relay in to turn the fans on when the ac comes on, just like stock. or just wire in a toggle switch to turn them on.
i tore the stock wiring harness out of my car with the last engine swap and built one from scratch. i have a single 2600cfm fan on a relay wired into a lower than stock temp fan switch and a secondary smaller 800cfm fan on the ac condenser that runs with the ac on.
wiring new relays is simple. the +12v in to the battery, the trigger to a switched 12v source, the +12v out to the fan, and the ground to the fan switch.
doing it that way, both fans turn on when the fan switch reaches temp, and will turn off when you turn the key off, so it doesnt drain your battery.
if you wanna get a lil more complicated you can wire in another relay in to turn the fans on when the ac comes on, just like stock. or just wire in a toggle switch to turn them on.
i tore the stock wiring harness out of my car with the last engine swap and built one from scratch. i have a single 2600cfm fan on a relay wired into a lower than stock temp fan switch and a secondary smaller 800cfm fan on the ac condenser that runs with the ac on.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
Just in case how a rely works and why you use one is not totally understood I added this link = http://www.mp3car.com/the-faq-empori...ire-it-up.html
#42
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
id run 1 fan per relay, they are high amp circuits after all. i picked mine up from autozone for $5 each. its just a standard universal spdt relay
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
Ok... The fan switch is on the ds of the block, right? Under headers towards the front? Or what is that?
I found out that the fan came from a 99 stratus, jacked the car up, and the bottom of the fan said 99 stratus... Was from a junk yard.
The factory wires coming from the harness are black and black/red stripe right? That's what the 2 yellows and 2 black wires are connected to in my setup now. So to run a relay I'd have to separate all those wires.
My next question is if I run a wire from the green to the + battery side they run
So that would be my power wire right? What would the yellows and blacks be? Thanks
I found out that the fan came from a 99 stratus, jacked the car up, and the bottom of the fan said 99 stratus... Was from a junk yard.
The factory wires coming from the harness are black and black/red stripe right? That's what the 2 yellows and 2 black wires are connected to in my setup now. So to run a relay I'd have to separate all those wires.
My next question is if I run a wire from the green to the + battery side they run
So that would be my power wire right? What would the yellows and blacks be? Thanks
#44
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
Ok... The fan switch is on the ds of the block, right? Under headers towards the front? Or what is that?
I found out that the fan came from a 99 stratus, jacked the car up, and the bottom of the fan said 99 stratus... Was from a junk yard.
The factory wires coming from the harness are black and black/red stripe right? That's what the 2 yellows and 2 black wires are connected to in my setup now. So to run a relay I'd have to separate all those wires.
My next question is if I run a wire from the green to the + battery side they run
So that would be my power wire right? What would the yellows and blacks be? Thanks
I found out that the fan came from a 99 stratus, jacked the car up, and the bottom of the fan said 99 stratus... Was from a junk yard.
The factory wires coming from the harness are black and black/red stripe right? That's what the 2 yellows and 2 black wires are connected to in my setup now. So to run a relay I'd have to separate all those wires.
My next question is if I run a wire from the green to the + battery side they run
So that would be my power wire right? What would the yellows and blacks be? Thanks
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
Well it's in the car... It works and I have it wired to a switch right now... Just completed it about 2 hours ago... I never need a fan really, where I stay... No lights, but when I go into town and get to a light.... It's dangerous.... Too close for comfort sometimes... So rigging it to a switch will work, FOR NOW!! Just when I get to a light, cut it on, after light, off
#46
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
could look at a '99 stratus fan wiring diagram to see
how the motors were connected in the stratus-motors
might be two speed if each has 3 wires.
how the motors were connected in the stratus-motors
might be two speed if each has 3 wires.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
Wwhy not just get a derale adjustable fan controller switch that will turn the fans on by how hot the thermoristor gets its comes as a kit an a wiring diagram alot better then putting a toggle switch an making the interior look ridic with a switch the whole kit only cost like 55 bucks am comes with a 1 year free replacement if it blows totally worth it in my book I put this in my 355 tpi build an the fans come on at 200 an turn off at 180 perfect for stop an go traffic
#49
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
i paid $20 for my setup, its just a relay running off a thermo fan switch in the head just like stock (just a lower on temp) and a separate relay for the ac fan that kicks it on when the ac clutch engages.
i ran a stand alone system i paid $50 for and wasnt happy with it. i havent had a problem with this setup yet and theres only few pieces that can fail. and theyre all cheap to replace if they do.
i ran a stand alone system i paid $50 for and wasnt happy with it. i havent had a problem with this setup yet and theres only few pieces that can fail. and theyre all cheap to replace if they do.
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Re: cooling fan toggle switch
i paid $20 for my setup, its just a relay running off a thermo fan switch in the head just like stock (just a lower on temp) and a separate relay for the ac fan that kicks it on when the ac clutch engages.
i ran a stand alone system i paid $50 for and wasnt happy with it. i havent had a problem with this setup yet and theres only few pieces that can fail. and theyre all cheap to replace if they do.
i ran a stand alone system i paid $50 for and wasnt happy with it. i havent had a problem with this setup yet and theres only few pieces that can fail. and theyre all cheap to replace if they do.