Did a test today here in south central Arkansas. Drove the vert around in town for an hour and the gauge fluctuated from 180 to 200. This on a stock 305 with a slightly leaking head gasket. The taurus fan and 170 stat works perfectly. Over the last two decades I, like many others have struggled with keeping my 3rd gens cool. I am finally happy with my current combination.
It is;
1. aluminum radiator with 2 rows of 1 inch tubes and new cap .
2. 170 stat GM# 10220957 with 35% prestone and 65% distilled water and purple icex2.
3. transmission lines routed to a cooler in front of condensor and not through the radiator with its own 5.5 inch fan.
4. New air dam and baffle.
5. fan controller set around 185 or 190.
6. good year high miler hoses.
7. re-routed throttle body (no hot water)
8. Will add a pusher fan I had in front of condensor. It helped with my old combination.
9. Most important- 91-95 2 speed Taurus fan with factory breaker and 40 amp fuse.

 

i had my Camaro in Texas in the middle of June.. it was 105 degrees when i was stuck in traffic south of Austin on I35, and it would stay right between the 195 degree temp of the thermostat and about 200 degrees when moving above about 20mph.. when moving slow or sitting still, the temp would creep up to 220 where the thermostatic switch in the intake would turn the fan on, which almost immediately dropped the temp back down to the 205 degree shut off point.

i have a rebuilt L69 305 out of an 86 Caprice in it, with vortec heads and a tiny little cam with a whopping .390 intake and .410 exhaust lift. the water pump is whatever old used reverse rotation pump i've had sitting on the shelf in the barn forever , the radiator is a brand new 2 core HD plastic/aluminum replacement from NAPA, and the cooling fan is the stock 86 Camaro V6 electric fan.. i don't know if my custom Home Depot vents in the hood helped keep it cool at all, but i know they didn't hurt anything. also, i threw away most of the stock troublesome airdams and what not, cut out the grille, and made a NASCAR style airbox out of coroplast to jam all the air that goes thru the mesh grille covering (made out of an expanded aluminum house gutter leaf deflector thingie. it looks pretty badass, if i do say so myself...) either thru the radiator or up into the air intake.
i'm running pretty close to a 50/50 antifreeze mix.

 

Yes the trick is air flow like it has always been. When going 35 or faster the air speed is enought to cool the car if the car is equipped to properly use the air. With no air deflector or baffle the cooling effeciency goes way down. When in traffic at red lights the fan is extremely important and how the fan is used. The factory dual fans sit too far away and leak air from around the side of the blades. If they were mounted closer you would get more air throught the rad than air leakage. Second is CFM which is again air speed. The taurus fan is by far the best I have ever used and when it comes on you can watch the gauge needle fall quickly instead of timing it with a calender. Which directs us to the radiator. We must use the air flow as effeciently as we can. A two row radiator with 1 inch tubes allows more heat to be dissapated than anyother regular design. The nascar guys have specialty radiators with extra thick cores that work well at 200mph; again air flow and using it effeciantly. The stock rad works with a stock motor ok and I had a stock 89 350tpi iroc for a decade and a half and it ran a little warm but cooled ok untill the plastic tank popped its cork. Then I obtained a be-cool and found the holy grail of radiators. It fits perfectly and has 2 rows of 1 inch tubes.
The taurus fan I lined with gasket sealer to keep it from rubbing a hole in anything so I could mount it right against the radiator so there would be no leakage. It works perfectly and if anyone lives in Texas or Arkansas and has gone through what we have gone through then I have solved the riddle. I have a solid roller 406 with 11.5 to1 comp and has the factory dual fans and keeps cool but not as well as when I install a taurus fan on it. Pusher fans help also. Some people think they don't but they do and I will be re-installing one soon.

 

I have a 92 rs convertible been having heating problem car go up past 220 after about 20 minutes of driving. Change motor once because of that but turned out to do the same. Have high speed dual fans on it now but still no help. My 90 iroc never go past 150. Any ideas please help.

 

When you start it up from cold and let it idle, as it reaches around 200 the top radiator hose should start getting hot and your temps should start to drop since your thermostat is opening. If this is not happening and the upper hose stays cool your thermostat is not opening and needs to be replaced. Many people prefer a 180 degree on rather than the stock 195. Does that help at all?

 

Do you have an airdam on the car? Is it in good condition?

 

I can start it up and let it run alday at idle it only heats up when it is driven at idle it stay at about 150

 

Sounds like a missing or damaged air dam alright. Got one?

 

I will check that out tomorrow and let you know what i find. Thanks

 

They are right you have to have the air dam. The baffle helps the air dam and should be added as well if it is not on there. There is some foam strips about 2 inches square and about 17 inches long that seal both sides of the radiator to help air go throught the rad system you should look for as well.