Is the Air Dam necessary w/ Fog Lights removed?
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From: Georgia
Car: 91' Z28. 70' Dune Buggy
Engine: LSX Cam/Full Bolt ons
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Is the Air Dam necessary w/ Fog Lights removed?
I'm running a ls1 with the stock cooling system in my 91 z28. (dual fan radiator)
A while ago I removed my fog lights, and cut out the plastic directly behind them. So all the air that hits the z28 grille, goes straight to the radiator. My fans also are running majority of the time, since I am able to control when they are on or not.
With that said, is the air dam necessary?
I'll end up removing it and test driving, but would still like to hear of peoples' experiences. Both good and bad?
I'm playing around with intake setups and need the room down there, odd I know, but I will share when I am finished.
A while ago I removed my fog lights, and cut out the plastic directly behind them. So all the air that hits the z28 grille, goes straight to the radiator. My fans also are running majority of the time, since I am able to control when they are on or not.
With that said, is the air dam necessary?
I'll end up removing it and test driving, but would still like to hear of peoples' experiences. Both good and bad?
I'm playing around with intake setups and need the room down there, odd I know, but I will share when I am finished.
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,498
Likes: 20
From: PNW
Car: 91 Black Formula KR
Engine: 305 TPI R69/G92
Transmission: Astro A5-Pro 5.0-McCleod
Axle/Gears: US Gear 3.42 Eaton True Trac
Re: Is the Air Dam necessary w/ Fog Lights removed?
I have a 91 Formula... KR fiberglass nose... with a lot bigger opening than the fog light ones you have and I cut holes in the metal bumper bar too... I thought it was enough... I have an EBL, so I can tune the temp the fans turn on / off...
Before, there was a lot of heat coming from the trans tunnel, even with Aluminum Second Skin (Dynomat)... After installing the air dam, all that heat went away... Much more comfortable to drive... I even have Jet Hot coated Hooker 2055's, which keep under hood temps way down compared to stock, or uncoated headers....
Can you live with out it, probably...
But it's much nicer (for you, and everything that lives in the engine bay)... The dam just draws in so much more air and cools EVERYTHING off, not just the radiator...

Rafael
Before, there was a lot of heat coming from the trans tunnel, even with Aluminum Second Skin (Dynomat)... After installing the air dam, all that heat went away... Much more comfortable to drive... I even have Jet Hot coated Hooker 2055's, which keep under hood temps way down compared to stock, or uncoated headers....
Can you live with out it, probably...
But it's much nicer (for you, and everything that lives in the engine bay)... The dam just draws in so much more air and cools EVERYTHING off, not just the radiator...

Rafael
Joined: Sep 2005
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Is the Air Dam necessary w/ Fog Lights removed?
Yes you need it.
More important than "scooping air in" as the fog light area might tend to do, it creates a low pressure area BEHIND the radiator that SUCKS THE AIR BACK OUT. Remember: air (or anything else) flows FROM an area of HIGH pressure, TO an area of LOW pressure. Therefore DECREASING the pressure (and flow) in the "destination" location is just as effective and NECESSARY in promoting flow, as INCREASING the pressure (or flow) in the "source" location.
"Can" you live without Internet service, cable TV, central heat & air, supermarkets? Of course. Does that automatically make it A Good Idea? Something You Really Want To Do? Not necessarily. Same deal here: even if you "can" get your car to survive without it, it's so simple cheeeeeeeep eeeeeeeezzzzzy light and effective, why would you do that to yourself?
More important than "scooping air in" as the fog light area might tend to do, it creates a low pressure area BEHIND the radiator that SUCKS THE AIR BACK OUT. Remember: air (or anything else) flows FROM an area of HIGH pressure, TO an area of LOW pressure. Therefore DECREASING the pressure (and flow) in the "destination" location is just as effective and NECESSARY in promoting flow, as INCREASING the pressure (or flow) in the "source" location.
"Can" you live without Internet service, cable TV, central heat & air, supermarkets? Of course. Does that automatically make it A Good Idea? Something You Really Want To Do? Not necessarily. Same deal here: even if you "can" get your car to survive without it, it's so simple cheeeeeeeep eeeeeeeezzzzzy light and effective, why would you do that to yourself?
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 65
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From: caldwell idaho
Car: 1991 camaro rs v6
Engine: v6 3.1
Transmission: auto
Re: Is the Air Dam necessary w/ Fog Lights removed?
i tried it and my car didnt like it got to hot inside the engine bay then i started vapor locking
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,795
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From: St. Cloud, MN
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: LS1383 in work
Transmission: Magnum F - to be installed
Axle/Gears: Zexel Torsen 3.73, 28-spline mosers
Re: Is the Air Dam necessary w/ Fog Lights removed?
Your car will get stupid hot on the highway without the airdam. It's the only way these cars stay cool at speeds.
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Car: 91 ws6
Engine: Carb'd 334 stroker
Transmission: T5
Agreed. Tried going without for a while, since it was an offroad vehicle and needed clearance. She didn't like that much..240deg highway with fan on, and would kept climbing. Even if its mangled, put it there.
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