So it seems ever since i switched from the cheap champion 3 core radiator, to a Becool 2 core, the fans dont cool as efficiently. I have a twin HD cooling setup from another third gen, and they both spin the proper way. It just seems like their allways on during the summer, they never cool the engine off enough to shut off. Im wondering if i should be switching to a pusher fan to force more air through the radiator? Im open to opinions and suggestions from people who have switched/experimented with it

 

I have two temperature controlled, adjustable fan's and one is a primary 14in. puller mounted on a 15in x 17in engine oil (only flows at 180*)and transmission oil cooler that flows continuously as a primary that comes on at 140* because of the transmission cooler, and a 16in. pusher fan mounted on the front of the condenser that comes on at 190* with a 180* thermostat.


The car does not get over that even in heavy traffic. I even shut off the inside puller to see just how well the pusher would do. Same thing. It worked very well all by its self.


Although I am only running a stock replacement Murray Radiator.

 

Im tempted to ditch my dual fan setup and do a big singler puller fan on the radiator WITH a shroud and one pusher fan on the condenser. I forgot to add im seeing alot of pressure build up in the AC system when its running at idle on a real hot day. To the point where i can see it effect idle. I dont know if these cars had some sort of bracket or foam between the radiator and condenser or if one of my fans is just weak. (I replaced one of them last year)Im leaning towards just bad fans, as when on the highway it stays at about 180 with stock thermostat.

 

Here's how I wired my two fans.


Each one is on its own circuit with its own controller and relay.
I can set them to come on at any temperature I want.
I panted the controllers black and ran all of the wires and temperature probe line covered with black wire loom.


Here's the controller = http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...267187_69565_0_


You do not use the directions that come with it.
You wire them in like this.

 

I think my issue is the fan itself, not somuch the control

 

Ron, how long have you been using that AZ fan control? Reliable?
Did you put the probes in the upper hose or on the fins?

 

I prefer pull fans, somehow the pushers seems to be blocking natural air flow. The only time a pusher is needed is when the water pump is too close to the rad and there's no other choice.

 

The switch I'm using is around 4 years old.
The reason I believe it has lasted and most likely will continue to last is because I totally ignored the absolutely lame instructions it came with.
It is placed on the low amperage grounded ignition wire / circuit coming off of the aftermarket relay I added.


Almost no stress on the controller.


Take a look at how its wired in post # 4


Also, another reason I'm using the large pusher fan in front is it gives me a back up fan in case the puller should fail for some reason.


Each fan is on its own independent circuit/relay, wired exactly the same but each one is set at a different "on" temperature.


The probes are inserted in the radiator fins below the top radiator hose about 4in down.
I painted the controllers black and used black wire loom. You can see the controllers in the 2nd photo.
(you can also mount it/them out of site.)
I have a method of setting the "on" temperature that is beyond simple if any one needs it.


As far as the front fan blocking air, I have never had a problem keeping the car within the parameters I have set for the fans.
That includes the highway and setting in city traffic.

 

Thanks Ron. How did you set the temp? I noticed the controller has no numbers on the set ****.Ill be using a relay too, think I wire it like yours.That controller doesn't appear it could handle the fan directly.

I'm getting this to turn on a second independent pusher fan, since the main fan is controlled by the ECM.

 

Turning the switch clock wise increases the "on" temperature.
What I do is turn the switch clock wise until it stops. = highest "on" temperature.


Start the car cold and watch the temperature gage clime.
When it gets to the temperate you want it to come on at, very slowly turn the switch dial counter clockwise until the fan kicks on.


That's it.


The fan controller is now set.


A lot of stock temperature gages are off a bit so testing the gage against a inferred laser temperature gun is always a good idea.


I like your plan because you can make the new fan your primary and the ECM controlled fan can be back up.
I would set the new fan at 180* and use a 180* thermostat.

 

The IF temp reader is a good idea, ive got one of them.Did you focus the laser by the probes?
What size is your pusher fan? I ordered a 14" pusher, but it looks like itll be a tight fit.Ive got a 180 stat on order.

 

I use the thermoset cover and then again next to the temperature gage sender.


Also, I would lay out the wires and probe/wire in the configuration/routing you are going to use with a foot or to of extra wire on the ends.
Then (if your going to use it ) put the wire loom on the wires before you do the final routing. I used very small zip ties about every six inches because if not the wire wants to slip out the side of the loom when you handle it.


I used a 25amp inline fuse on the main power wire just before the battery junction block.


12gage wire for the main power source is heavy. A 14gage wire should be ok for a 14in fan.


Here's what the 16in pusher fan on my car looks like.
(that is the old radiator).EDITE = That is the condenser.


To fit it I had to use a longer mounting bolt on the bottom of the support bracket that's in front of it.
Its in there tight.


The bottom photo is of the mane junction block that will supply the mane power for the fan. It is "VERY" hot at all times so disconnect both the positive and negative wires from the battery before touching it.

 

Also, I drilled a small hole in the firewall just below the relays on the drivers side where I mounted the new relays.

Then routed the small 18gage ignition "on" power only wire through it and to the fuse box. In the back of the box there are open fuse slots .
Each slot has two prongs in it , one for each side of the fuse. One of the prongs in one of the slots will only supply power when the key is in the "on" position.

Just probe each prong until you find that. Then use a small male spade connecter on the end of the wire and slide it into that slot.
Now you will have the low amperage power that the relay needs to through the switch inside of it. It will only do that when the key is in the "on" position and the fan will only run when the fan switch tells it to.


I also placed a inline toggle switch on that wire so I could shut it off manually.
Always nice to have full control of it.

 

I didn't think a 16" fan would fit, maybe cause you don't have the AC condenser.Hopefully my 14" wont be an issue.I also plan on using the fuse box for the Ign trigger & relay fuse.
I'm gonna route/install the harness this weekend, so the fan is ready to mount when it arrives.I like how you moved the support brace out, I was gonna cut/weld mine.Ilike you method better though.

 

Sorry,
That is the condenser.


The fan assembly on it actually moved the top of both the condenser and radiator forward about an inch.
I had to fabricate a extension plate on top.
You can see it in this photo.

 

I get it, so you moved the top of the rad/cond out to make room for the fan.I see the extension you're referring to.Great work on saving your car, it looks sharp.The color matching latch cover is a nice touch.

 

Yes, I edited that last reply of mine.
Some of it really had nothing to do with the subject at hand.