W.E.G.

From Autozone.

Parts are new.

Includeds new compressor, and accumulator/drier, seals, and AC oil.
$211 shipped.
Supposed to arrive around August 12

https://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...6_246285_34477

I considered ordering an AC Delco unit, but I looked at a lot of the reviews on Amazon, and there were a goodly number of really negative reviews on the AC Delco compressors for other vehicles. The unit that was correct for my car was not in stock on Amazon. GM Parts Direct had the AC Delco (compressor only) for $256.

I previously installed a new Autozone alternator and distributor in this car. Both units working fine after a year.

"Limited Lifetime" warranty appears to mean 90 days. Not sure how the "lifetime" concept applies - except if their idea of a reasonable "lifetime" for such a part is 90 days.

Roast me for taking a chance on the 4Seasons brand.

.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

Four Seasons has been around a long time. I've never heard of there parts being sub-standard. Let us know how the install goes.

Aaron R.

I put the same kit in my wife's 1987 camaro. Cools fine, but very unhappy with the excessive vibrations and growling from the compressor at idle. It shakes the whole car.

tealman92

I have a year and a half on one of those units in my sons rs and have no complaints so far.

W.E.G.

My old compressor - before it dramatically blew oil and refrigerant around the shaft seal in a mushroom cloud - sounded like a $12 blender filled with broken glass and matchbox cars.

Interesting that the 4Seasons kit, while including several parts, does not include a new orifice tube.

I separately ordered the "correct" GM-type AC Delco orifice tube

And I decided to give a try with sofakindgom's suggestion for a 96 Crown Vic orifice tube, since my system is already converted to R134
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...ml#post6232686

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

^^^ This ^^^

Your odds with their products are as good as with anybody's. They're limited by the basic R4 design: it's just not very robust to begin with.

The vibration thing isn't "the compressor" as such; any brand will do that. It's caused by the natural pulsation in the load it puts on the belt (4 discrete compression events per rotation)... not much you can do to change that. The better the compressor works, the more it will tend to do it. It's caused by the mount brackets allowing the compressor to flop around. Making sure that ALL the stiffening elements of the mount are in place, will help. Sometimes adding or creating a brace that wasn't there originally is an option.

You'll find that the Frod orifice tube works better than the GM one in this situation: its properties more closely match the ideal for a GM R-12 system filled with R-134A, than the GM R-12 tube does. It's not so much a matter of "Frod vs GM" as it is just the diameter of the orifice.

W.E.G.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

Interesting...double O-rings on the Ford.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

That's because Fords suck twice as hard.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

1989karr

I tried both a blue Ford orifice from a 90 TAAAUUURRRRUUUSSSSSSSS and a white ac delco GM...basically the white GM cooled better at highway, and the Ford cooled better at idle and held the temp lower at idle and more steady.


On a hot Hawaiian day:

GM
Freeway 30 degrees
Idle after freeway driving 42 - 45+ degrees, inconsistent readings

Ford
Freeway 30 - 35 degrees, usually closer to 35
Idle after freeway driving 38 - 40 degrees more less consistent

The compressor seems to have a tendency to cycle more with the Ford tube though even though I adjusted that sensor on the accumulator. Its not that bad though. I f you live in Hawaii you're usually stuck in traffic...so I reluctantly used the FOOORRRDDD orifice tube, but I'm happy with it lol

NINÅ

W.E.G.

I'm making some progress (more like regress actually).

I was all set to install the new compressor and dryer today, when I discovered that the system was actually still (very much) pressurized.

Problem is, the compressor stays on most of the time, and both inlet and outlet lines of the evaporator are quite hot.
I started a separate thread on "why are my evaporator lines hot?" at https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...tor-lines.html
I'm not quite sure what is the logical next step.
I welcome replies in this thread or at the link mentioned.

Thanks for everybody's help.

1989karr

Have you tried driving on the freeway and turning the ac on?


Read the thread...he mentions the fan needs to be on etc...


It could just be that your fan is not turning on? You have a 2.8V-6 so you should have the single cooling fan correct?


If not maybe the ac switch located on the hard line going to the evap is bad or the fan motor is bad...



Sounds like your fan is just not coming on...try drive on the freeway and turn the ac on and see if the air comes cold! the freeway driving should provide more than adequate air flow over the condenser....You may just need to fix the fan

Ive had this experience with my old camry so hopefully its just that!


.

1989karr

Oh, and don't leave it running too long etc... if the pressure gets to high I think it'll blow a pressure valve on the back of the compreeer and once that blws I think the compressor needs to be junked unless you can find just that valve.