I'm working on tuning my 92 Z-28, using the Craig Moates ALDL, Burn1 and Tuner Pro RT. I've got his adapter to be able to swap chips in and out.

Sometimes the car won't start - it just cranks. I pull the chip out and it will start right away on the base memcal. I put the chip back in after starting it on the memcal, and it starts. Once it wouldn't even crank (even on the memcal). A few minutes later it started.

It's got a brand new MSD, so I'm ruling it out (it did the same thing on the old dist). Any suggestions? VATS, ECM?

thx.

 

You will get much better coverage if this had been posted in DIY-PROM. Maybe RBob will move it there.

Are you sure the chip is oriented correctly in the BURN1 and the adapter? The dot goes near the handle on the BURN1 with two empty slots between the end of the chip and the handle end, and is opposite on the adapters (see below).



Are you certain the burn process was completed successfully? If you are using the old BURN1 software, you need to specify the starting address if using the 27SF512 chips (see my link below).

What is your setup? TPI or TBI?

What bin did you start with and are using now? Did you read the original and make changes, or just download one? All you need to read your original MEMCAL is the HDR1 from Moates ($10), and IMO is the best way to start.

I am no expert, but these are things I came across when I first started. Click on the following link to see how I did it. Note, although the link is a 94' Suburban TPI swap, I used an $8D mask which is what you have if your car is a TPI.
http://www.edgesz28.com/edgesZ28/sub...ban-tuning.htm

Good luck solving this problem. Ed

 

Thanks Ed, for the reply.

I'm leaning against a Chip burn / read problem, because the problem is not consistant (usually a hot engine problem) and the car doesn't throw any codes. I'm using the 256 chips, and have them oriented as you have described. I verify the burns, and they have always come out OK.

I think the problem is elsewhere in the system, but I'm still working on it. I was just trying to find other explanations as to what could be happening.

thx.

 

As a no cost test, I'd disable Vats in the bin
and completely bypass the Vats module.
I believe some of them have a crank inhibit too.
Also, try to have your logging software running everytime.
Put the sensor display up and verify PW and DRP indication.
No PW is usually a vats problem.
You might also try hooking a noid light up where you can see it.
That will tell you if the injectors are being electrically commanded to fire.

 

I've disabled VATS in the BIN, but didn't bypass the module. Interesting suggestion, though - I'll give it a shot. I figured the BIN would be good enough.

Thanks for the input.