I'm trying to dial in my fuel map for my new combo. I was wondering if the HP and TQ figures you input need to be on the "conservative" side to get your AF ratios close. I had a reputable DFI guy tune it last time but he's longer around. Seems as though he told me that you had to be really conservative on your HP and TQ figures. I've never dynoed my car, but the motor was built around the recipe for the ZZ520HP 350 SBC.
THe car runs well, pulls really hard on the big end, but I'd like to know if there's more tuning left in it. There's no strip nearby, the dyno shop is booked through the summer, so I'm more less screwed. Peak HP on the motor should be around 520, and TQ at 455. I input 450HP and 400TQ at their respective RPM's of 6700 for HP and 5200 for TQ. What's your guys take?
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DFI 6.32

 

The curved generated by that bs program will be pretty much bs. It should get the engine to start, but by no means be anywhere in the ballpark. If you can't go anywhere to get it tuned, buy a wideband O2 setup and find someone to drive while you tune. If you have no clue about tuning, you might have to broaden your search to find someone good to tune it even if it means driving a couple of hours to get there.

 

what kind of system do you have. iam in chicago can help you out

 

I am downstate, near Decatur. This weekend, I may try add some more fuel and see what happens. I know that with the current base fuel map, the car runs a little rich in CL while the car is moderately cool. But as the temp. increases to operating temp, it is a tad lean in CL. That is the data that I'm getting from the base fuel map with the graph in the bottom right corner. Obviously, at WOT, the program goes into OL and I lose the graph. I was told that the variance may be due to the after start enrichment being off. Any ideas guys?

 

The bar graphs at WOT are garbage. Dyno it with a WBO2 or make some highway blasts with your own WBO2 with datalogging. There are correction factors for air intake temp, and you might be able to tweak your setup in CL with them, but without a WBO2, the feedback you get from the gen6 is basically junk.

 

So basically I need to dump another 4 or 5 hundred for a WB O2 sensor? I'm starting to think the best route might be to take it to Andersen's, have them tune it on the chassis dyno and be done with it.

 

I paid to have mine tuned the first time, and got the WBO2 later. If your guy knows what he's doing it's money well spent.