BIZZAR IDLE PROBLEM,IN NEED OF HELP
BIZZAR IDLE PROBLEM,IN NEED OF HELP
HEY EVERYONE,I OWN A CAMARO Z28 5.7 TPI,EVERY MORNNING I START MY CAR.IT STARTS RIGHT UP AND RUN PERFECT ALL THE WAY TO WORK.8 HOURS LATTER I START THE CAR TO GO HOME, AND THE CAR BEARLY STARTS,IT ALSO TAKE 30SEC. OR SO TO GET TO A IDLE,NOW THW IDLE IS SO RUFF,LIKE ITS MISSING AND ALL I CAN SMELL IS FUEL,LIKE ITS TOTALLY LOADED UP,IT WILL CONTINUE TO RUN LIKE THIS FOR THE REST OF THE NITE. I REPLACED THE FUEL PUMP AND THE O2 SENSOR.PLEASE IF ANY ONE HAS ANY IDEA,
Re: BIZZAR IDLE PROBLEM,IN NEED OF HELP
WHat have you or anybody else already done to the car? What year? How many miles? Does it run okay under more open throttle conditions? (Cruising or Wide open throttle)
Re: BIZZAR IDLE PROBLEM,IN NEED OF HELP
NOTHING THE CAR IS STOCK.SORRY ITS A 91 WITH ABOUT 156,000 MILES ON IT,AND NO IT RUNS THE SAME IF NOT WORSE,ESPECIALLY UNDER LOAD,LIKE GOING UP A HILL,SITTING AT A RED LIGHT IT HAS AN IDLE LOPE,WICH MAKES ME THINK OF THE TPS SENSOR.IDK
Re: BIZZAR IDLE PROBLEM,IN NEED OF HELP
ITS ALL PRETTY NEW,I JUST REPLACED THE FUEL FILTER
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IWAS GOING TO START PULLING OFF WIRES AT THE DIST.TO SEE WHAT CYLINDER IS MISSING
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NO LIGHT COMES ON . I ALSO HAVE THE MODUS BUT IT DOESNT DO A WHOLE LOT ON OBD1
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IWAS GOING TO START PULLING OFF WIRES AT THE DIST.TO SEE WHAT CYLINDER IS MISSING
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NO LIGHT COMES ON . I ALSO HAVE THE MODUS BUT IT DOESNT DO A WHOLE LOT ON OBD1
Last edited by finelinecustoms; Jul 11, 2008 at 11:42 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Re: BIZZAR IDLE PROBLEM,IN NEED OF HELP
First post stated you replaced the "fuel pump"
I asked what had been done to the car .
You said "NOTHING"
Now you say you replaced the "FUEL FILTER". This qualifies as "SOMETHING"
If it just started, how about telling us what you or any one else have done to the car in the last 6 months. Whether it be MOD's or TUNE UP stuff.
Turn you cap locks off. Makes it look like you're panicing...!
I asked what had been done to the car .
You said "NOTHING"
Now you say you replaced the "FUEL FILTER". This qualifies as "SOMETHING"
If it just started, how about telling us what you or any one else have done to the car in the last 6 months. Whether it be MOD's or TUNE UP stuff.
Turn you cap locks off. Makes it look like you're panicing...!
Re: BIZZAR IDLE PROBLEM,IN NEED OF HELP
OK I REPLACED THE FUEL PUMP,FROME THE DEALER,FUEL FILTER,PLUGS,CAP AND ROTORABOUT 8 MONTHS AGO, O2 SENSOR UM I HAD A INGINTION PROMBLEM SO I BYPASSED THE CHIP IN THE KEY WITH A 6 OHM RESISTER,TO GET THE VATTS TO WORK,AND THAT IS ALL I HAVE DONE TO THIS CAR OTHER WISE IT IS STOCK,I ALSO HAVE OWEND THIS CAR SINCE NEW.
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Re: BIZZAR IDLE PROBLEM,IN NEED OF HELP
You've already done some of these but heres my usual order. At that age / mileage, Id say:
Plugs
Cap
Rotor
Wires
Fuel Filter
O2 sensor
Check fuel pressure with a gauge. (40-47 LBS)
Once gauge is hooked up, turn key on and verify pump runs for about 2-3 seconds and kicks off.
If pressure is low, turn key off for 10 seconds are turn key on allowing pump to run for 2-3 seconds again. Pressure should read as stated and HOLD at about 40 PSI. Very slow bleeddown can be expected but it should be SLOW
5 pounds @ 10 seconds. If bleeddown occurs faster than this, you could have bad (stuck open) injectors, pressure regulator or check valve problems
If there is fuel in the vacuume line to the regulator, replace the regulator.
If pressure is still low, replace Fuel pump if needed.
EGR VALVE. Take it off and suck on it....The vacuume connection that is.
The diaphram should move and vacuume should hold. At that age, whether it holds or not, I'd replace it for to 70 - 100 buck it costs.
Pop the connectors off all the injectors
Use an ohm meter to see if they read 10 ohms or more. Replace any that are lower then spec and/or all at once.
This ought to keep you busy fo a while. Others may chime in too. (Although nobody did when I asked for help on opinions) This covers the basics and are relatively the CHEAP FIRST LINE OF DEFENSE FIXES that effect performance throughout the range..
Let us know how it goes.
Plugs
Cap
Rotor
Wires
Fuel Filter
O2 sensor
Check fuel pressure with a gauge. (40-47 LBS)
Once gauge is hooked up, turn key on and verify pump runs for about 2-3 seconds and kicks off.
If pressure is low, turn key off for 10 seconds are turn key on allowing pump to run for 2-3 seconds again. Pressure should read as stated and HOLD at about 40 PSI. Very slow bleeddown can be expected but it should be SLOW
5 pounds @ 10 seconds. If bleeddown occurs faster than this, you could have bad (stuck open) injectors, pressure regulator or check valve problems
If there is fuel in the vacuume line to the regulator, replace the regulator.
If pressure is still low, replace Fuel pump if needed.
EGR VALVE. Take it off and suck on it....The vacuume connection that is.
The diaphram should move and vacuume should hold. At that age, whether it holds or not, I'd replace it for to 70 - 100 buck it costs.
Pop the connectors off all the injectors
Use an ohm meter to see if they read 10 ohms or more. Replace any that are lower then spec and/or all at once.
This ought to keep you busy fo a while. Others may chime in too. (Although nobody did when I asked for help on opinions) This covers the basics and are relatively the CHEAP FIRST LINE OF DEFENSE FIXES that effect performance throughout the range..
Let us know how it goes.
Re: BIZZAR IDLE PROBLEM,IN NEED OF HELP
No problem. Make sure your SERVICE ENGINE SOON light come on when you first turn your key on.
Keep us posted. We can continue from here when you have these things checked if need be.
Good luck
Keep us posted. We can continue from here when you have these things checked if need be.
Good luck
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