And much was it to get that info? I've tried once to use it and it asked me to log in, sign up, and it seems to me that you may need a credit card aswell. Do you need to pay before you can get the info needed?

 

unfortunatly yes. the shop i work at has it, and so does my school. so i have access to it from both places. and idk how expensive it is, iv never really looked into it for my personal use (because i already have access). but i doubt its cheap. i can ask my boss or teachers what they pay.

 

theres got to be a wire gounding when it shouldnt be mine was doing the same thing not wanting to rev up above 2000 rpm when i have the gas all the way down. i found a few wires that the PO had spliced into but still havent found the problem but i did notice that 2 of my spark plug wires were cracked and taped them for a temp fix. i dont think its ur maf sensor cause they shouldnt be going out that fast. i dont know if u have already done this but if u have a voltage tester i would check the voltage of each wire going to the sensor with the ignition on.

 

much thx for responding.
the warrenty took care of the cost of the 2nd and 3rd maf. no the car did not run good for a bit. it ran like crap as soon as i connected the connector to the maf.
Scotty

 

hey thx for responding.
I did a voltage check with the ignition on (car not running). However i got no voltage. I did however got voltage when i started the car(car running). i got the 5 volts that is required. it sounds strange that this condition would occur. I also replaced the power relay for the maf sensor and the problem still presists.
Thx scotty

 

hey also when my car starts to overheat the engine acts up then dies and wont start untill the engine has cooled down enough to resatart the car. any ideas. there are no codes for this condition.

 

im pretty sure there should be voltage with just the ignition on

 

the overheating and then dieing sound like a sensor is going bad

 

Thx. which sensor. i am not picking up any codes. but that doesnt always mean anything. Because not all the car is sensored or coded.

 

Yes your right. i did a test using a sunpro tester for MAF and others sensors and the manual says that i have to have voltage when the ignition is on but the engine is not running. However when i start the car and the engine is running, i get the right voltage. So that tells me the power wire is working but why am i not getting voltage when the car is on but i get voltage with the car engine running.
Much thx for hanging in there and helping me.
Scotty

 

Power to the MAF is +12 volts. That is pin E of the sensor. The MAF only receives power when the fuel pump is running and during burn off. So key-on, engine-off the MAF is powered up for 2 seconds. Then the ECM drops the fuel pump relay and the MAF power relay is also turned off.

When cranking and running the fuel pump is activated and the MAF is powered up. At key-off the ECM commands a burn off cycle and the MAF is powered up during this time.

RBob.

 

Much thx for the info. Why is it that the car runs like crap with the sensor connected but runs fine with the sensor disconnected? this is frustrating to me. again much thx for ur help.
Scotty

 

Well I just wanted to say thanks to everyone here. And in fact I did learn that the 85 camaros do not have independent interchangable relays on the ecu! I just bought a new sensor and it worked

 

With the sensor connected the ECM uses it for the engine airflow. With the sensor disconnected the ECM knows this, so creates an airflow value based on the engine RPM and throttle position.

What this means is that the signal from the MAF is incorrect. Because when the ECM is using it the engine runs improperly. It may be the power to the MAF that is a problem. Or in the wires back to the ECM or the sensor or ECM itself is bad.

Try tapping on the MAF with the engine running, then do the same to the ECM. If how the engine is running changes then most likely you have found the culprit.

RBob.

 

It's a shame that the burn off module doesn't have plug-able relays. My understanding is that the burn off module is also on the expensive side.

RBob.

 

Thx much for the info. However i have done verything (so i thought) i could. However i will check the wires going back from the MAF and get back to u as to what i find. Again thx.
Scotty

 

Also i tapped on the MAF during engine running. no change was detected. however i will tap the ECM and see if there is any change. Thx
Scotty

 

Hey i have another problem. When my car heats up it starts running rough and finally dies. I changed the thermostat and eveything in the cooling system checks ok. It wont start untill the engine has cooled down enogh to get the car started. this takes about 20 minutes. thx for ur help.
Scotty

 

Hi all,

I've been reading through the thread and noticed the discussion re the MAF sensor. My 85 IROC has the original OEM MAF sensor with nearly 250k miles on it. When my MAF "went bad" I discovered how expensive they were to replace. That was back when they were a couple hundred dollars. After I picked myself up off the parts house floor, I decided to do a little automotive DIY homework.

I discovered that the most common reason for failure is the fine wire inside the MAF that detects air flow gets crud on it.

This fine wire actually heats up and cools down as air flows across it, which changes the resistance in the wire. The sensor reads the resistance and sends the variable "signal" back to the ECM. When this wire gets dirty its ability to "read" airflow is diminished and causes false readings to be sent to the ECM. If you look into the MAF, you can see the sensor wire.

Here's a trick you can try to "remanufacture" your MAF. You'll need to pick up a can of Lectro-Motive auto electrical component cleaner. Most auto parts stores carry it.

1) Pull the MAF off the vehicle.
2) Directing the Lectro-Motive into the MAF inlet, saturate the sensor wire with the Lectro-Motive and let it dry.
3) Repeat step 2 several times.
4) Replace the MAF.

This thorough cleaning takes the cruddy film off the sensor wire so it can function properly again. This little shade tree trick has worked for me a couple of times now. Hopefully, it will restore you MAF to proper function and help preserve your kids college fund!

NOTE: DO NOT DIRECT COMPRESSED AIR INTO THE MAF to "DRY OUT" THE LECTRO-MOTIVE! The wire is too small and sensitive and thus can be destroyed by high-pressure air. Just let the Lectro-Motive dry out by itself. It leaves no residue by design.

 

Hey there, Scottysbird!,

Without specs on your bird (year, engine, etc.), I'll just make an off-handed suggestion. If your vehicle is equipped with a cold-start injector it could be faulty. Sometimes when they fail, they will continue to "call" for a rich air/fuel ratio even after the car warms up. The ECM can only compensate to a certain degree so this fuel-rich condition can cause the engine to run rough, gradually "load up" and stall.

If that's not the culprit, you might also check the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve.

Good luck.

Oh for the days of a battery, starter, and a couple ignition wires!