well ive read all the stickys and understand some of what i read lol. im having a hard time of understanding what i need to do to tune the thing. if i buy the cable to hook it to my laptop what do ihook the other end to? is there a program i need to get to tune with? is it any way like how you would tune a obd2 vehicle like a lsx based setup like with hptuners? im so lost.

you did read all the stickys and still don't know how to do it

basicly remove the EPROM form ECM, reprogram it and put it back, but it is far more complex
to tune with laptop buy this http://www.moates.net/ostrich-20-the....html?cPath=95 form moates.net

best regards

See TunerPro website.

Check out www.dynamicefi.com

Raf

That's guys I hate to sound like an idiot just its all new to me and I've read on what I need and looked at the hardware but unsure on what I need to do. Would I be able to tune on the fly? Or is it like I have to pull out the ecm from the dash everytime I have to tune it?

Since I only want to tune my car, and not others, I got the EBL P4 Flash from Dynamic EFI.... It's as "on the fly" as you can get... you would still use a Tuner Pro to "adjust the settings", but EBL can store 8 programs, and you can toggle from one program to another... And as opposed to all the units / cables / plugs / connectors you get if you go the Moates route, EBL just has 1 wire out to the laptop....

If you are planning to tune other cars, then you may wish to go the Moates route...

I'm very pleased with the power of the EBL P4.
& Great Customer Service too!

Rafael

I only PLAN to tune my own I know of one other guy that's local to me that's running a tpi car that wants to get some tuning done but otherwise it would be on my car. Its going in the garage for the winter for some upgrades and maintenance so it would be a good time to learn some tuning since I'm putting headers on and porting the plenum and possibly a cam.

To tune on flu you need to get that Ostrich stuff or simmilar, if not it will be pulling ECM every time you want to modify chip

best regards

With the EBL Flash products the ECM stays under the dash. The calibration is flashed in (within seconds) via the same cable that is used for data logging.

RBob.

Which is the best and easiest to use as im new to the tuning game also, since no wants to tune these cars anymore. thanks

U.S. Navy
Godspeed

I love my EBL P4 Flash... I had to connect 3 wires to the ECM harness (I'm visually impaired and no problem) and 1 wire to the laptop, it monitors / data logs and lets me tune the car...

I use "Tuner Pro" to change the bin file, then use the EBL software to upload / monitor / record / tune the car...

The Moates route, you need more cables / units / etc... I've owned an APU1, which did chip reading / buring, ALDL logging, and tuning, but sold it...

My EBL P4 was my actual first time I actually tuned... Still learning, but all good

www.dynamicefi.com

Rafael

I first came across this EBL P4 a couple nights ago. So far in my readings it seems like the set-up I am going to get.

I have gotten my slightly modified '70 350 retro fitted to TPI to run on a stock AXYD memcal. But it's rough and I have plans to someday rebuild it and add a set of twin turbos. So I want a system that can handle a boosted situation as well as a N/A for the next year or two. Plus I don't really want to end up having to learn 2 or 3 different masks to do it.

That being said it looks like this EBL P4 might be the ticket I've been looking for since it says it can handle up to 30 psi. Much higher than my intended ~8 psi. Yes/No? Is there something I'm missing?

I'm a newbie to tuning so I am sure I will be back here alot. I hope to have the body work on the car finished this winter and be driving it next summer.

Not missing anything. The EBL systems are speed density and as such use a MAP sensor. Our SD cars come with a 1-bar sensor. That is it can measure from absolute vacuum to barometric pressure.

A 2-bar MAP sensor extends the upper end to measure up to 15 psi. Which is the sensor you should use.

Using a 3-bar MAP extends the upper end to 30 psi. It could be used for an 8 psi system but is not recommended. A 3-bar MAP sensor has less resolution and is less accurate under 50 KPa of manifold pressure.

Once in boost there is a SA reduction table, and a fuel multiplier table. These are used to eliminate knock and get the AFR set up correctly.

RBob.

RBob. I think I'll be sending you one of my 7730's the latter part of November. Figure for the extra $20 I'd let an expert do the install. I like the fact that I will only have to learn one system instead of having to change codes/masks when I do add the boost. Plus the price seems very fair compared to the other options since I have yet to invest in any burners, readers, data loggers, etc.

Thanks again,
Steve