Gizmoz28

I have an 88 camaro 305 tpi can I put a 200 amp alternator in my car and what would be a good battery thanks

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

You put in whatever size you want.

Odyssey.

GD

1983Chimaera

I just put a 130 amp AD237 (AD244 series) in my 1988 IROC-Z, and it was fairly straightforward. There is a 253 amp AD244 version available brand new from RockAuto for cheaper than a stock replacement reman CS130 105amp, and is the same install. I got my 130 amp unit, plug, and charge wire from a local junkyard for under $30. The AD244 series comes in 105, 130, 145, and 253 amp versions. The 145+ are usually in the Escalades with the full power options (heated seats, etc). Look up the RPO codes on the glove box door to identify which unit should be in the vehicle. Also note these alternators are easily rebuildable, unlike our old CS130s. Note: You want a pre-2002 4-pin AD244. The later 2 pin units MUST be controlled by the PCM. They can run in a "limp home" mode without a PCM, but at significantly reduced output.

Only 2 modifications are needed to fit in the serpentine bracket setup. First is to wire in the CS130D/AD244 style plug. You will need to connect your tan/white stripe wire (wire "F" from your CS130 plug) to the dark brown wire on the pigtail (wire "L" on the CS130D/AD244 plug). You will need to add either a 5 watt 80k ohm or a 1/2 watt 470k ohm resister inline on this wire, as the AD244 needs a slight voltage drop from either the resister or a charge indicator bulb to function properly. Leaving this out WILL kill the voltage regulator, DON'T DO IT. Leave the dark brown (wire "L") on the CS130 plug unconnected, it is not needed. I also recommend modifying the CS130D/AD244 plug to accept the large red sensing wire (wire "S"). The alternator can sense voltage internally, but you get a much more accurate and consistent input for it to do so using the sense wire from the old plug rather than having it read from the battery terminal.

Second is you must elongate the hole at the 10 o'clock position on the alternator bracket as the AD244 is physically larger and the hole will quite not line up otherwise. You only need to slot the hole by about 1/8", and can easily be done with a rat tail file. I used a 3/8" x 3.5" grade 8 bolt to mount it. You can also use a brace on the backside going to the intake manifold, but it will have to be custom made to fit as the one from your CS130 will not (too short). Many have claimed to have had not problems leaving the brace off, but if you're planning on a 200+ amp output that is going to put undue strain on the small bit of bracket the alternator mounts to and a brace would be highly recommended.

As the AD244 is larger, the pulley is moved outwards slightly so a longer belt is required, the next size up from what you are currently running should work. I was running a 968K6 (smog pump delete) and went to a 975K6.

I would also recommend upgrading your battery to alternator cable at this time to handle the increase in amperage. The stock is a pathetic 10 gauge with a 14 gauge fusible link, this is barely enough for a stock system. I pulled a 4 gauge setup off a 2000 Escalade, along with an inline 175 amp replaceable fusible link. For 130 amp this was plenty, but if you're going with 200+ you really should look into 2/0 gauge and an appropriately sized fusible link. Make sure you have adequate grounding also, battery to chassis, battery to block, and block to chassis. An easy way to tell if your charging wire is too small is to feel it with the engine running and system loaded. If it's adequately sized, it should be cool to the touch. If it's too small, it will be hot (excessive resistance). Do NOT leave out the fusible link, it's there to protect your system and in severe cases prevent fire.

For more info there are plenty of detailed walkthroughs on this same install on thirdgen and all over the web, it's a very popular upgrade.