read datalog ecm data please
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 16
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From: Vegas
Car: 89 Trans Am, 93 MR2 Turbo
Engine: L98 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: stock 9 bolt
read datalog ecm data please
is there any experts at reading ECM data? i finally logged my data and all i can see wrong is blm and int is low and o2 sensor bouncing up to .900s, just confirming the rich condition.
i have a tunerpro Log for
1. car cold open loop to warm closed loop, with the maf unplugged. cant do this with maf plugged in car will run BAD.
2. closed looped idle with maf unplugged.
3. when car is turned off and plug maf back in closed loop warmed up.
4. car is turned off reset codes/ecm, turned back on closed loop warmed up with MAF plugged in. no codes.
i uploaded the 4 logs in a zip but i can also either email you or facebook message you the logs also
89 trans am gta 350 tpi. How accurate is this test for MAF sensor, unplug it and if runs better then its your MAF? my original maf sensor broke, so i ordered a like new but used Delphi AF10320 from amazon. i regret ordering a used one now.
when its plugged in on start up it will idle rich and misfire sometimes running terribly smoke everywhere. when its unplugged it seems to run almost perfect. other then a misfire i think once in a while.
there is no codes unless the maf gets unplugged of course.
other things i checked and for sure are working.
1.No air leaks. checked and vacuum tested.
2. electrical faults to maf sensor, maf relay, burnoff relay, IAC, coolant temp sensor, TPS, fuel injectors, o2 sensor
3. Fuel injectors themselves, fuel filter
4. fuel pump and pressure regulator, also fuel pressure is good.
5. spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition coil
6. coolant temp sensor
7.TPS
8.IAC
9.emission equipment. A.I.R system, EGR, vapor canister. PCV valves. Catalytic conerter temp and back pressure. oxygen sensor new
10.Alternator, battery charge.
11. engine compression all 8 were even and just above 150psi i believe it was.
the only things i feel like would matter at all that i haven't checked is sticking valves which i heard can be a possibility of a car that has barely been driven for 5 years. even though the compression check was good....and engine timing, because my balancer doesnt have a timing mark! so it could be distributor or the ignition control module i havent checked.
can the base engine timing change by itself with like wear of components or something? or only if distributor is messed with?
but regardless of all this crap i checked. the car still seems to run great with maf sensor unplugged anyways. so it could just be the maf sensor.
Thank you!
i have a tunerpro Log for
1. car cold open loop to warm closed loop, with the maf unplugged. cant do this with maf plugged in car will run BAD.
2. closed looped idle with maf unplugged.
3. when car is turned off and plug maf back in closed loop warmed up.
4. car is turned off reset codes/ecm, turned back on closed loop warmed up with MAF plugged in. no codes.
i uploaded the 4 logs in a zip but i can also either email you or facebook message you the logs also
89 trans am gta 350 tpi. How accurate is this test for MAF sensor, unplug it and if runs better then its your MAF? my original maf sensor broke, so i ordered a like new but used Delphi AF10320 from amazon. i regret ordering a used one now.
when its plugged in on start up it will idle rich and misfire sometimes running terribly smoke everywhere. when its unplugged it seems to run almost perfect. other then a misfire i think once in a while.
there is no codes unless the maf gets unplugged of course.
other things i checked and for sure are working.
1.No air leaks. checked and vacuum tested.
2. electrical faults to maf sensor, maf relay, burnoff relay, IAC, coolant temp sensor, TPS, fuel injectors, o2 sensor
3. Fuel injectors themselves, fuel filter
4. fuel pump and pressure regulator, also fuel pressure is good.
5. spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition coil
6. coolant temp sensor
7.TPS
8.IAC
9.emission equipment. A.I.R system, EGR, vapor canister. PCV valves. Catalytic conerter temp and back pressure. oxygen sensor new
10.Alternator, battery charge.
11. engine compression all 8 were even and just above 150psi i believe it was.
the only things i feel like would matter at all that i haven't checked is sticking valves which i heard can be a possibility of a car that has barely been driven for 5 years. even though the compression check was good....and engine timing, because my balancer doesnt have a timing mark! so it could be distributor or the ignition control module i havent checked.
can the base engine timing change by itself with like wear of components or something? or only if distributor is messed with?
but regardless of all this crap i checked. the car still seems to run great with maf sensor unplugged anyways. so it could just be the maf sensor.
Thank you!
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