Well Fellas I finally got to take it to the dyno. Many of you are trying to help me with getting this critter to run where it should be and some of the answers may be here now.
I should first set the stage. The guys running the Dyno were very new to the system. They told me ahead of time and said to not be in a hurry. They were very friendly and helpful and know alot about engines, but nothing about the dyno.

We got there at 5:00pm and they began hooking the car up. It took a bit of time and then we were ready. I couldn't wait. I guessed it would be about 305HP with 350 ft/lbs

They did a test run and got the data. They ran the car again and the data repeated fairly close. The first two runs were to see where the car wouldn't downshift from D (3rd). Once this was established they set up the WB02.

From here on out we had an unbelievable amount of trouble. The damn computer wouldn't log the power and torque curves. Everything else was there. Finally I asked if I could just play around with the system and find out what the heck was going on. These guys knew nothing about computers at all. I finally was able to retrieve the runs I have listed below, but still some of the data was lost. We ran the car a total of 9 times throughout the night. I only left at about 10pm. The guys were totally embarrassed, and were very apologetic. I told them it seemed as though they lost communication with the accelerometer or something. All the other data was being logged, except that.

Getting back to the numbers. They were less than expected, but I was prepared for worse. They thought it ran pretty good.

I did discover a few things by looking at the curves. My power kind of flattens off above 4800 RPM. Before that spot the curve climbs continually. I think if I get my max timing set to come in right at 3600 I can raise the 3600-4800 part of the curve quite a bit.

Fuel was rich like I suspected. I did burn a chip to lean it out, but never got the data from that run. The reason the AFR was high on the one run that contains the AFR at the bottom of the graph was the tube came off with the exhaust blast.

I really felt bad for the guys. They had to have felt like idiots. I really did not mind. It was cool to play with it and get the data I did.

I accomplished a few things by going. It gave me a good idea of how the cars running. And verified my Wbo2's readings with that of theirs. Mine followed theirs to a T. And I think I can get some more usable HP by bringing my timing in quicker around 3600RPM.

Give me your thoughts on the curves. You guys obviously have much more experience and maybe can direct my attention to some items that stick out. Hopefully I can get some worthwhile information out of them.

At the end of the night the guy asked me what I thought was a fair price. I told him I would pay the full amount regardless. They put a whole lot of time in and they were upfront and tried everything they could. In the end he only accepted $50 bucks. He even called me this morning to see if I got home OK (2 hr drive). And said he would ship my Columbia coat I left there for free. We spoke for ~1 hr and he said as soon as they get it fixed he would open it up on a Saturday for me and I could run my car as many times as I want for the $75 charge to get it tuned.

In my opinion, these guys are TOP notch. Maybe not the most computer literate fellas, but very nice to work with.

Give me your thoughts on the numbers from the graphs! I can't wait.

 

Don't worry about numbers, just performance. Lots of guys go fast without numbers. Well, actually they have numbers, 1/4 mile numbers and those are all that matter. Also, I don't think you can go by anything on that chart because something is wrong. HP and torque cross at 5250 rpm, as HP is a factor of torque*rpm/5250.

 

The chart is scaled differently on the two axis. HP goes to 300 and torque 350. That is why they don't "cross" at 5250.

 

That caught my eye too. Then I realized the scaling.

Any tuning advice from these?

What 1/4 mile times do you think are achievable?

 

I tune on the dyno every day using many different dyno shops and I find it very hard to tune correctly on a dynojet as you cant control the rate off acceleration or hold it on a steady speed and vary the load so you can datalog the transition from cruise to power.
Also you cant simulate say a 4th gear accelereration from 1000rpm at the same rate it would on the road , spark,fuel and transient vary wildly dependant on how fast its accelerating.
using a proper dyno I find just doing a power run with a slow ramp rate varies how much transient fuel I require and how fast to ramp the timing in.

They have helped you and also helped themself get some valuable learning time on the dyno so good on you both :-)

Use it but its different to on the road or try and find a proper eddy current dyno or water brake (here we have Dyno Dynamics dyno's , dynamic test systems and mustang dyno's as well as dynojets but they are not really used for tuning - just to sell exhaust mods for before and after runs.

If I new how to post pics I would attach a sample of the type of dyno print out I recieve which can log A/F , torque , manifold vacuum/pressure and power and these have a more realistic look as well as a truer power curve ( alway approx 11% less than a dynojet will read though)

 

Worked out how to scale one down so here goes

This is off a 355 Holden Commodore with a Crane cam that I re did.

On a DynoJet it made 444 HP and it does a 11.3 sec ET now

 

I agree with Tomcat that the dyno is not the best place to tune. I think it is just another tool to use to verify changes for HP. The true driving habits of a car can't be simulated standing still. I think the best thing to do is use something Grumpy made and described in Programming 101, I *think* it's there. It is some electrical contraption that takes a vss reading and combines it to a stop watch. After X amount of signals it starts the watch and after X amount it stops it. It could be used say in third gear from 2500 rpm to whatever so long as you don't shift. That way tire slippage and shifting aren't part of the equation. It could probably be done with the Moates scanner since he gives you the code.

And what are my guesses at what it could run don't matter much. The car is capable of running a 12.4 with the right chassis combination but achieving that will probably be more difficult than getting the perfect chip. A less than optimum chassis should run 13.2 with those numbers. Like I said they don't mean much especially coming from a guy that has had two different ~500 hp engines and could only muster a 12.3 @ 114. I should spend more time on the chassis than on the engine and those numbers would be much better, but that is a whole notha story.

 

Mile Per Hour is an excellent indicator of horsepower and
capability of a given combination.
Got to the track and atleast get a few runs to determine this.
mustang corral has a good calculator that is really close.