When do you know you need a heated o2 sensor?
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Joined: Oct 1999
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Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
When do you know you need a heated o2 sensor?
Just curious. Is there a way to tell? Maybe just measure the time it takes between cross-counts. Just figured I'd ask before I get a couple heated units and my wideband.
I'm going to be installing a heated o2 in the intermediate pipe before the cat and the wideband is going to go in the same location when I'm tuning or 1/4 mile runs. I would just like to see if I can find a way to compare the narrow band readout to the wideband to get a better idea of the AFR when I don't have the WB in. Is it true that keeping the wideband in will shorten it's life span? If so, why did honda put it into a car that was expected to get a lot of miles?
I'm going to be installing a heated o2 in the intermediate pipe before the cat and the wideband is going to go in the same location when I'm tuning or 1/4 mile runs. I would just like to see if I can find a way to compare the narrow band readout to the wideband to get a better idea of the AFR when I don't have the WB in. Is it true that keeping the wideband in will shorten it's life span? If so, why did honda put it into a car that was expected to get a lot of miles?
If it won't go closed loop....then you need a heated one. I recently helped a friend tune his car-he had installed long tube headers along with quite a few other mods. He'd kept the stock one wire O2 sensor-when I scanned it the O2 sensor would not start cross counting at all. If it's a little closer it may just be slow to start, but I'd go ahead and go for the heated if it's at all further downstream from the stock location-it seems it could easily drop out of closed loop if the location is marginal.
And I wouldn't want it to happen at the most inopportune time....like during a smog check......
And I wouldn't want it to happen at the most inopportune time....like during a smog check......
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