86IROC112

OK, almost there guys. Got her running pretty good. Definitely drivable, some new tires, new muffler, safe and ready to go.


However, it starts right up but seems to idle kinda high until it heats up. Idles at about 1500 then slowly drops to 700 but it takes 10+ minutes to get there.? Been battling this car for months and had to have the heads redone and also had the injectors checked and TB rebuilt by Dr. Injector. I adjusted the IAC and TPS and have driven it plenty to "teach" the IAC. No vacuum leaks. Most of the other sensors are new and it's not throwing any codes..


Not unhappy with it but would like to have it start, run, and idle as it should.


Ideas?

aliceempire

iTrader: (14)

Ten minutes is a long time. I'd check the temp sensor and see if it correlates to the engine temperature the whole range. New doesn't mean it's correct.

86IROC112

How do you do that? With it still installed?

aliceempire

iTrader: (14)

Remember that cts circuit chart I posted awhile back? Ohm check the sensor at differet engine temperatures.

86IROC112

Ah, gotcha..Thanks, will do..

86IROC112

Well the sensor seemed to check out OK. Now I'm not so sure it's temperature related. Just got back from a short drive to town and when I got bock the idle had dropped to where it should be. Thing is, it's snowing outside and the air dam I built works really good so the engine temp didn't get very high. (Not even to the first mark on the gauge) Seems more like a run time issue and I have no idea what would cause that?

aliceempire

iTrader: (14)

So I get this right.....it idles high for a long time no matter the coolant temprature? Does it always go to normal low idle after you've driven it long enough? I would want to verify the wiring and connections from the ecm to the temp sensor is aok. It would be great if you had a proper scanner to see what the iac counts are at.

86IROC112

Yeah, it's weird. It will always eventually idle where it should. I just thought it was heat related but because it went from hot to cold here quick, I don't think so. Any scanners you would recommend? All I've used is the ole' paper clip ...

aliceempire

iTrader: (14)

The only good scanner I used was the old Snap On red brick....http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-on-MT25...-/262106289659 It's not made anymore but it's findable cheaply. I'm sure there are others, even newer ones but I never used them and I'm sure newer ones the price goes up.
I moved to EBL P4 so I run a laptop as a scanner, no need to have an obd1 scanner anymore.

86IROC112

I was thinking about buying this cable so I could do a full datalog on it? Thoughts?

http://www.moates.net/aldu1-and-cabl1-p-127.html

aliceempire

iTrader: (14)

Ah good find, I forgot people use that. I'd search the boards. Tons of info should be out there. I've never ran it myself.

86IROC112

I found it here: www.scotthansen.net

Ever heard anything about him? Seems like pretty knowledgeable guy.. I can do the datalog then email him the results then he can re-program my chip based on the results. Probably needs it anyway since all the smog crap including the CAT has been removed..?

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Does it warm up by driving it faster than it does just idling?
Idling is pointless when it comes to warming a car up.

Also, does it have a 195 t-stat? A new gasket and stat are cheap insurance.

Fred SS

iTrader: (3)

That's what I use to datalog with Tunerpro RT v5. Works good most of the time. Follow the instructions provided on the Moates website for setting it up.