Truely, Help me people:

In my quest to figure out WHAT I need to edit in the prom to fix things, I went on another scantool adventure with WinAldl.

I increased the Fuel pressure at the rail another 5psi, and my o2 went up.. .6 for the most part at idle.. Goes up and down. But my BLM's have gone from a nice 128 to 160.. Wha?? 160 is lean as hell - isn't it? Why would it go leaner when I add more fuel?

I'm starting to wonder if the o2 sensor is crappin out..

-- Joe

 

Do you get readings from your O2 sensor? If so I would have to say your O2 is ok. Mine reads 4 mV all day long. Mine is shot.

Turn down your Fuel pressure and see if it goes back the other way and swings to the other side of 128.

 

A fuel pump will only do so much work.
Raise the pressure and the volume drops. Raise it enough and the volume drops enough to lean down the motor.

Barring mechanical ills, more pump or more injector.

 

Hey Grumpy,

I'm running 24lbs SV0's. Got all my prom burning stuff yesterday, so I'm gonna work on the ARAP bin today.

THink I should drop the FP down to stock, and play with the injector constants instead? Stock is like 40PSI _WITHOUT_ vacume connected right? You agree with doing this, or should I be messing with both?

-- Joe

 

IMHO, I think that running lower pressures is the best idea. By 'lower pressures' I don't mean REALLY low pressure. I mean somewhere around 42-45psi. Why? As Bruce already pointed out, the fuel pump can only pump so much. Why have the pump do all the work at maintaining pressure in the line when you can just tune it to supply more fuel by allowing the ECM to use greater pulse widths (ASSuming you have enough injector). AFPRs are just quick tuning tools to give you an idea what to do with the programming. That's it. The only argument against this is atomization. What's the difference in atomization between 45psi and 50psi?

Tim

 

Hi,

Sounds good. Although my FMU boosts pressure up 8psi per pound of boost, and I have a vortech inline pump up front helping the other pump. Most of my goals is trying to fix things in N/A driving.. Boost doesn't really kick in until I want it, and when it does the car runs GREAT, but at idle, and part throttle conditions it drives like a 49 ford.

I'm waiting for the tunercat people to reply to my e-mail. I simply cannot get WinBin to work correctly. I don't know how you guys do it, I keep getting port errors, and winbin doesn't appear to be developed anymore anyhow.

Thanks for the responses. Btw, low 12's N/A? jesus! If I get a 12.00 with boost this year (some good tuning) i'm gonna jump up and down!

-- Joe

 

For the moment, I can't find anything.
I've been playing with a couple cars that were static on injector openings, and increasing pressure should improve HP in two ways, one addition fuel flow, and if right then thru atomization.
I saw just barely enough to account for the pressure change and no traces of any other advantages.

Run em at 42.
Enter the correct injector size, and tune as necessary.

 

I programmed my injector constant to 25.2 and will set Fuel pressure to 42 PSI with vacume connected this morning, and see how it works for me.

I disabled EGR (had to set EGR open to like 99.9% TPS)

I've searched and read through almost 100 posts on Air/Fuel ratio. Everyone sesm to ask, noone seems to answer.. 14.7 is stock, which is considered a bit lean for emmissions reasons, correct?

What is a good starting point (other than that of course) for a performance oriented ratio? I've seen people say as rich as 13.5, but that sounds a little wild to me.. ???

Well I'm gonna go try out my ziff socket. Had to use a rat shack 40 pin IC socket, and mod it, so I hope it works. For my ECM's sake. -

-- Joe

 

How did you do it? There are a number of ways, but I have found the most effective is to set the EGR Enable Temp to a very high value so it never engages.

 

Hey,

I set it to only activate when TPS was higher than the TPS sensor can read.

I didn't see an option in tuner cat for any other EGR parims, perhaps I'm just missing it.

I tried the ARAP Bin. OMG it sputters and DIES. I set FP to 42PSI with vaccume _DISCONNECTED_ (made a typo earlier, sorry). I think my regulator is screwed up. WIth vacume connected it idles at like 30psi, when I hit the gas, it goes down to like 20psi.. Isn't it suposed to go. UP?

-- Joe

 

Yep, it is supposed to go up...unless the pump is going bad.

 

I think the blower might have something to do with it.. If I remove the vacume line, it will stay at the 42PSI I left it at..

Then again, when I shut the car off it drops to 0 with the quickness. I dunno. I don't mind taking it apart again if somethings wrong, plenum takes all of 5 minutes to unbolt.

On another note, no prom success today. Freaking IC socket didn't work soo well. I might have better luck mounting a remote ZIF somewhere away from the ecm, and leave the memcal in the ecm. Looks like I can use a PC floppy cable to connect the 28 pin zif to the ECM.. I've seen pix of people doing this.

I've also got some 730 ideas to mess with over the winter.