wayshegoes

i replaced my fuel pressure regulator as it was leaking gas out the vac line, no more gas leaks however car now stumbles upon acceleration and smells rich

pressure on rail at idle is bout 35psi give it gas goes up to 42 car stumbles, shut car off pressure drops to 0 right away

i pinched return line shut with pliers turned key to on to pressure rail, turn off, pressure bleeds off slowly as it should

from what i read it means i have problem with fpr seat not diaphragm

not sure what to do, pull the FPR and?

any and all help greatly appreciated

antares57

iTrader: (8)

Really would like to know what you're working on, year , model, engine size. Guessing by the pressure it's either a MPFI or TPI. I believe idle pressure should be around 43psi at idle. My guess leaky injectors if you're smelling gas. Have you replaced them? Probably why it's dropping to zero. Update your profile and help us help you. Good luck and welcome.

wayshegoes

my apologies, forgot i created a new username, sorry i will add to my profile also

car is a 1988 GTA trans am 305 TPI 5 speed

the injectors were replaced with Bosch III about 5000KM ago

I checked vacuum, it holds low at 15, its the bottom of the good area on my gauge

TPS and IAC were replaced end of last year, maybe a 1000km

I have also replaced the MAF as car failed e test this year, high unburnt gas i believe it was reason, however with replacement MAF i get code 34 but passed e test no problems, with original MAF i get no codes but car idles like crap, i have just been driving with the code 34

wayshegoes

the new FPR came with a bag of rubber washers various sizes, when i removed the old diaphragm there was no washer removed

what are the washers for?

wayshegoes

is it possible i got a defective FPR?

antares57

iTrader: (8)

Need some help here TPI guys. All mine are MPFI or TBI.

rusty vango

likely your MAF is bad .or the relays .check both the power and burn off . often times some jack leg has cheap / wrong relays. and then theres the "A1 cardone" re man MAF sensor issue. pure ****. there are new MAFs to be had . and you have to have one to make it anywhere near right. these are the things you have to have in order to actually drive the car. #1 a new MAF. #2 proper part number relays #3 acceptable injectors #4 a proper FPR . #5 a good fuel pump (no need to go stupid here , all you need is for it to provide factory prssure. but it can not come from china ) NO k&n air filters the oil WILL migrate to the MAF and make it useless.#6 quality tune up , timing set @6degrees.and finally #7 a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL. NO a haynes or chilton will NOT do . unless you run outta toilet paper. you really have to make it as it was when it was new to expect it to run. good luck

wayshegoes

I have service manual for the car, as for the MAF it was replaced last year

the leak down test shows bad FPR, guess its possible i got a defective diaphram

i mainly wonder why a bag of various size rubber washers were included with the diaphram, are they for the rails?

anyone got any ideas

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

"i mainly wonder why a bag of various size rubber washers were included with the diaphram, are they for the rails?"

"anyone got any ideas"

Where ever you got the regulator diaphragm from, give em a call. Are they WASHERS or O-Rings? Might be for the reg connector or rails or fuel lines.................