2732's all bad at the same time?
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2732's all bad at the same time?
I've been working with the same 4 EPROMs since I started tuning. I think they've all bought the farm. I can't get a single one to work right. They erase and program fine, but they poop out while I'm driving. That REALLY sucks...I get bog or a sneeze out the intake if I'm on it and then it comes back to life.
The WinALDL knock counter resets when you stop sending data. That's how I know a code 51 popped up. Sometimes it happens too quick to set the light. I usually get a knock or two on start-up. If it bogs and counter is back to zero I know the EPROM failed again.
None of them will work today. Despite trying them in 9 different ECM's (1227747). I thought it might have been the ZIF sockets I soldered in, but those have been working fine for weeks. 4 of the ECM's I tried are in OEM condition anyway...those didn't work either.
Has anyone else had this problem? Is the 27C256 a better choice when it comes to reprogramming them a thousand times?
The WinALDL knock counter resets when you stop sending data. That's how I know a code 51 popped up. Sometimes it happens too quick to set the light. I usually get a knock or two on start-up. If it bogs and counter is back to zero I know the EPROM failed again.
None of them will work today. Despite trying them in 9 different ECM's (1227747). I thought it might have been the ZIF sockets I soldered in, but those have been working fine for weeks. 4 of the ECM's I tried are in OEM condition anyway...those didn't work either.
Has anyone else had this problem? Is the 27C256 a better choice when it comes to reprogramming them a thousand times?
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Have you been using electrical tape to cover up the windows? Also how long have you been exposing them to UV light?
Have you tried using a stock bin file unmodified?
Yes, the AT29C256 is great. It programs fast and I've never had a bad verifty. No electrical tape to mess around with, no down time, nothing but remove, reprogram, reinstall, test, tune, test, tune.
I don't think I'd have EFI if it weren't for the flash proms.
When/if you end up figuring out the problem please post a follow up.
Have you tried using a stock bin file unmodified?
Yes, the AT29C256 is great. It programs fast and I've never had a bad verifty. No electrical tape to mess around with, no down time, nothing but remove, reprogram, reinstall, test, tune, test, tune.
I don't think I'd have EFI if it weren't for the flash proms.
When/if you end up figuring out the problem please post a follow up.
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From: 600 yds out
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Originally posted by JPrevost
1. Have you been using electrical tape to cover up the windows?
2. Also how long have you been exposing them to UV light?
3. Have you tried using a stock bin file unmodified?
1. Have you been using electrical tape to cover up the windows?
2. Also how long have you been exposing them to UV light?
3. Have you tried using a stock bin file unmodified?
2. ~8 minutes. Not long enuf maybe? The chips are getting old
3. My engine won't run on a stock bin
yeah...I meant to say 29C256...duh...
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get in touch with www.unicornelectronics.com
they have new 2732b's. ive done a good bit of burn,erase,program on the 5 i got all holding up fine. yes the 29c256 is nice but a romulator is much much better.
they have new 2732b's. ive done a good bit of burn,erase,program on the 5 i got all holding up fine. yes the 29c256 is nice but a romulator is much much better.
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From: Eh?
Car: 1988 Monte Carlo SS
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In addition to covering the window on the eprom, I would also try extending the programming pulse. If your using the DOS PP sw, type 88 to get to a hidden screen. I think option 6 is the programming time. Increase it by x4 or x8. While a 2732 chip programs quite fast with a PP, if you follow the manufactures programming instructions (or use a real programmer like a Data I/O) the actual time it should take to program an older 2732 device is more like 3-4 minutes!
HTH
HTH
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Re: 2732's all bad at the same time?
Originally posted by V8Astro Captain
I've been working with the same 4 EPROMs since I started tuning. I think they've all bought the farm. I can't get a single one to work right. They erase and program fine, but they poop out while I'm driving. That REALLY sucks...I get bog or a sneeze out the intake if I'm on it and then it comes back to life.
The WinALDL knock counter resets when you stop sending data. That's how I know a code 51 popped up. Sometimes it happens too quick to set the light. I usually get a knock or two on start-up. If it bogs and counter is back to zero I know the EPROM failed again.
None of them will work today. Despite trying them in 9 different ECM's (1227747). I thought it might have been the ZIF sockets I soldered in, but those have been working fine for weeks. 4 of the ECM's I tried are in OEM condition anyway...those didn't work either.
Has anyone else had this problem? Is the 27C256 a better choice when it comes to reprogramming them a thousand times?
I've been working with the same 4 EPROMs since I started tuning. I think they've all bought the farm. I can't get a single one to work right. They erase and program fine, but they poop out while I'm driving. That REALLY sucks...I get bog or a sneeze out the intake if I'm on it and then it comes back to life.
The WinALDL knock counter resets when you stop sending data. That's how I know a code 51 popped up. Sometimes it happens too quick to set the light. I usually get a knock or two on start-up. If it bogs and counter is back to zero I know the EPROM failed again.
None of them will work today. Despite trying them in 9 different ECM's (1227747). I thought it might have been the ZIF sockets I soldered in, but those have been working fine for weeks. 4 of the ECM's I tried are in OEM condition anyway...those didn't work either.
Has anyone else had this problem? Is the 27C256 a better choice when it comes to reprogramming them a thousand times?
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