I just changed the heads, intake manifold, and rockers on my car, and am now changing the chip to correct. One of the things that I noticed is that I run super rich when I'm at idle. I corrected for the idle (in closed loop) but:

1. Where do I adjust for the temperature change causing a change in my BLM's? Is that what the Accel. Enrich. v. Coolant temp table does? What is the best way to modify it?

2. How should I change the portions of the VE tables that do not run during closed loop, but only during open loop portions of startup/idle?

3. How should I change the spark advance v. rpm v. map table? should I keep advancing until I notice knock in WinALDL and then slowly back down? The reason that I ask is because I think that the engine is running too retarded. I say this because when I'm done driving around I can pop my hood and my headers will be glowing cherry red which is indicating that the ignition is too retarded, correct?

Thanks for clearing up these Q's!

Also, could someone explain the tables for changing "knock attack rate v. vacuum", knock recovery rate v. vacuum", max knock retard v. map:, knock recovery rate v. rpm",

I greatly appreciate all help,
Thanks,
Mike

 

Can you tell more about your setup? Injectors, fuel pressure, etc.

Heads, intake, and rockers shoudln't make it run "super rich" at idle. it might change it a little but not by a massive figure - that would probably take a cam.

If you've increased your fuel pressure, I suggest you go back to stock pressure. that alone might account for your rich idle, and then you can richen up the top end (where it may need it, because the heads/intake flow better now) in the prom.

1. accel enrich vs. coolant temp just helps determine how much AE (pump shot) is given based on engine temp, such as if you need a bigger pump shot when it's cold. AE does not really come into play for idle and cruise conditions.

2. what portions of the VE table are you referring to? by driving the car and logging the ALDL you can pick up almost all the VE cells, and interpolate the rest to get your tune close.

3. take care of your rich problem first before messing with the timing, would be my opinion. the stock timing may not be optimum for your better heads, but it should be ballpark. after you get the basics figured out, you can start tuning timing with the help of plug reading, a drag strip, and the knock sensor.

 

sure, sorry I didn't mention all of that stuff. The injectors are 55# running stock fuel pressure. I think the reason that everything went way rich was because I ended up changing the BPW. I've gotten a lot of the VE table stuff down now. The main problem that I'm having is the VE portions of the table that PE mode is based off of (I've read that thats how it works (apparently based off of the 2nd VE Table when your above 3200 rpm?))

I do have a new question though. I was under the presumption that when you let off the gas the injectors physically shut off. The timing for this is supposed to be based upon a DFCO table. I don't have it on my TunerCat TBI table, however, and I'm getting a pop-pop-pop as I let off the gas. What is the best way to correct for that? should I simply adjust the left side of the VE table so that it will be leaner on that side? That method would seem to make sense because if your at like 3200 rpm and let your foot off of the gas it should jump over to the left side of the VE table at 3200 rpm (huge increase in vacuum).

Thanks,
Mike