As I understand it, the Bosch version is on sale for $285.

http://www.bnecustoms.com/wide%20band.htm

Mention you saw it on the Turbobuick.com site.
Just passing the info along.

 

Grumpy, do you have any experience with those Narrowband to Wideband Gauge Converter kits?

 

Nope, sure haven't.

 

Thats not a bad deal. I wonder if there is a way to run the output from the black box to the ECM so that we can have it datalog also.

Hrmmm

Kat

 

If you look here there's more info.,
http://www.plxdevices.com/M-Series_productinfo.htm

There's a scale showing the WB to 0-1 output.

 

Thanks Grumpy.. This is sounding better and better than the DYI WB..

Kat

 

Not to be too much of a nitpicker, but the goals are entirely different.

The DIY-WB was the first economical, reasonably available WB. It was also designed to be educational in nature. The goal was for the average guy with a little soldering talent to get into the realm of WBs. When the DIY-WB project first was formulated the cheapest WB was $1,200. It's only been since it's release, that they have been any affordable alternatives.

The recent releases of econo WBs have all been a result of guys seeing the success of the DIY-WB, and wanting to cash in on that market.

 

Oh I defantly agree with you on that.. I don't mind making stuff such as this. Just sometimes I rather spend the cash for the premade stuff

<-- Lazy lol

Kat

 

And the premade stuff usually works, which is mre than i can say for 90% of the projects i assembled in EE lab.

Also, some of these premade ones are using the much cheaper bosch sensor.

I look at it as $200 to build a DIY-WB that probably won't work and will drive me crazy troubleshooting or $300 for someone thing that if it doesn't work all i have to do is yell at someone else and hopefully get another.

Oh yeah, Hi Kat

 

Which wasn't available at the conception of the DIY.

The **other** Bosch WB is/was $275, it will be interesting so see what happens to the price as time passes. The Honda sensor at one time was $97, I personally bought 4 at that price.

Maybe you see it that way, but there have been thousands of the DIY-WB sold. While it seems that everyone knows someone that couldn't get one to work, there are thousands out there that are working. I have 4 here that all work, and I assembled another dozen or so for other folks. And I've never been in an EE lab..

And like I said earlier, if it wasn't for the DIY, you probably wouldn't have the cheap alternatives, that there are now.

For some of us, $100 covers an hour or two's work. Not to mention the personal satisfaction of learning, and creating something.

Just a counter point.

 

Grumpy,
Do you know if the Bosche sensor that is used in there WB will work with the DIY WB? Is that price accurate ($58)? If so a DIY WB would be pretty economical.

 

Nope, the sensors are different enough not to be compatible electronically.

 

It's pretty obvious that I'm a big fan of the diy-wb but like some, I did have an issue with the first board I built. It was a PITA but then again I wasn't following the directions carefully enough and the print on the side of the transistors was so small that I couldn't read it. Basically I had the pnp and npn transistors switched, , but now it works. For the price, it's a steal of a deal STILL. The quality of the board layout is prize worthy, the darn thing works great! The only thing that even now is annoying is the high voltage requirement. On our little honda F4i we can't run the WB on the car because the battery volts drop down pretty low, low enough to where the WB would shut off .

 

Where can I buy the board? I've been to www.diy-wb.com and sent an inquiry, but I never heard back?

Thanks!

 

Hey Ed!!

You're thinking along the same lines that I am. I know that I can solider well (have fixed many many circuits before i.e. broken PCB's and whatnot) This is something that I don't want to spend 200 dollars on and not have it work. lol Just the way my luck is going anymore I know it wouldn't work.

Also what I like about this setup more so than the DYI-WB is that it has the 0-1v output for the NBO2 which I don't recall seeing the DYI-WB have. Also too, by the time ya get done making a display for the DYI-WB it evens out in price. :shrug:

I'm not knocking either or, both will dothe job that it is intended for and I know the DYI-WB is dead on reliable. I was going to get one a few months ago, but alas other bills came up.

Personal preferance falls upon this item I beleive.

Kat

 

For every volt you lose on the primary side, you lose as much as 1,500v on the secondary side. Also, the injector opening delays go way up. CDIs can cover the first, but nothing will help the second. As high as you spin that engine, I'd be real concerned about that voltage issue. Have you guys worked out a voltage correction for the injectors?.

 

There is one that has Datalogging, or should I say Wideband recoding. It is made by Innovate,
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/
It is $349 + Shipping.

My friend bought one to help out tuning his Turbo C4 Vette,
http://tidewaterracing.com/forums/sh...threadid=14157

 

We have, it isn't perfect but it does work. You bring up a good point, I think we should seriously take a look at low voltage conditions. For a while when last years car first took flight with Victoria (we name our engines), it was noticed that the car ran better with a slightly richer map than our anticipated 13.8 afr. I tried to explain the reasons to the at present, engine team leaders, but they wouldn't have it. They thought that 13.8 was lean best torque for gt-100 and our motor, little did they understand the effects of throttle enrichment (no tuning, just guessing) and hence the richer map. As our cars battery gets older and older, the worse it gets from being constantly on draw and then charged heavily the night before we go out racing. This might explain our overheating issues we had on hotter days, although the cooling system in itself was below adiquate. Placement and a poor degausing system resulting in constant need for cool down laps. It would seriously take hours just to get all the trapped air out of the system so it wouldn't keep overheating. You really need to come by and check out our facility. You need to come soon to see the engine on the dyno, the building along with the dyno are being torn down. Still haven't a set plan on where we're going to relocate the dyno or what options we have.
Back to the WB, that IT is pretty nice, get it if you can afford it and don't want to DIY.

 

I bump the voltage up on my car when in PE.
Disconnecting the alternator on a car will let ya play some with the low voltage correction PW, BTW.