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WinALDL Questions

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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 03:24 PM
  #1  
Captain C's Avatar
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From: Bakersfield
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 1989 350 4 bolt roller block
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4 Road Race with Edge 9.5" 2800 stall lockup converter
WinALDL Questions

Question 1: I tired to connect to me computer yesterday and it wasn't getting any readings. I used the Moates USB adapter for my ALDL cable and installed the driver. During the setup I found that it communicated on COM3. I restarted the program as the instruction directed, but data was logging. I was hooked up to an 870 computer and I selected that computer in the program. Anyone have any Idea what's going on??

Question 2: Do I need to check any of the flags on any of the tabs? As in do I need to select what I want the program to look for? I tried that and it didn't work and then I read something that made me think that it would flag things that it found instead of me flagging it.

Question 3: What switch position do I need to put the USB adapter in to log data? The switch positions are open / 10K ohm / and short.

Since I am just getting started in this, any help would be greatly appreciated!!! Unfortunately, after 3:00 PM Pacific time I will be away from the web for three days. So if I don't respond to your questions quickly, that's why. I guess I need to get back on line at home for awhile.
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 03:59 PM
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Ronny's Avatar
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dont know if this makes a diff but i thought i read it was(usb adapter to serial) sensitive to steps. i mean i have have ign on or car running on b4 i start my winaldl. i assume you have all incl usb adapter using com port 3. i think my RS adapter used com 5 day one. i flipped to com 3. i did not need to mess with baud rate.
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 04:34 PM
  #3  
Captain C's Avatar
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From: Bakersfield
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 1989 350 4 bolt roller block
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4 Road Race with Edge 9.5" 2800 stall lockup converter
I did have the car running before I hooked it up. That may be the problem. The program wanted to default to COM1 but the connection was bad (obviously) so I moved through the available COM ports until one said "ok". It just happened to be COM3.

Then I restarted the program and it still didn't log. TunerPro didn't log either, in fact I didn't even see where I was supposed to turn on datalogging. I think I may have installed the standard version instead of RT version. I will take care of that tomorrow.
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 05:55 PM
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From: In your ear. No, the other one.
Car: '89 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5WC
Axle/Gears: 3.08 posi
For the USB adapter to work with WinALDL, you'll need to set up WinALDL to use 4800 baud (as opposed to 2400 baud). Its in the settings dialog.

The switch for your car should be in the middle position (open, no 10k, no short).
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 09:37 AM
  #5  
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From: Bakersfield
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 1989 350 4 bolt roller block
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4 Road Race with Edge 9.5" 2800 stall lockup converter
I didn't get your advice unitl this morning. I did get the program to work but it was a little different that what you guys told me. Must be just a weird car!!!

Anyway, it worked on both 2400 and 4800, just one was faster than the other. I also had to go to COM4 from COM3... On COM3 I did get some readings, but no O2 or INt's or BLM's. When I switched to COM4 I got everything. At least until my car caught on fire.......... Also, IIRC; I had to put it in the short position to get anything at all. I don't remember getting anything in the other positions. Maybe something peculiar to the 870 computer?? The switch to the 165 is shortly forthcoming!!!!

I did a fiberglass repair on the A/C cover on the dash and I guess that with all the temperature coming off the headers while sitting in one spot, it ignitied. I grabbed the extinguisher and put it out with no damage but some slight melting to some wrinkle tubing covering the hot wire to my alarm. But no actual wires burn't.

Now I need to repaint part of the fiberglass and then put some kind of insulation on it. I thought I had smelled it a couple of times in the past but I just thought it was curing. I've had the car idleing for a long period before and it never did anything like that. It must have been the higher revving while running my initial test that created enough heat to ignite it. I did the repair two years ago.
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