A small block 400 with 12.1 to 1 compression
200 runner heads with 2.05 int. 1.60 exh.
242int. 250exh. @.050 duration
.617 .640 lift
112 lsa
has a holley 4 bbl. style efi intake
1000 cfm 4bbl. throttle body by force fuel injection


can a chip be made for a 7730 to run it pretty well?
It is a drag car.

 

answer: sure.

tim (traxion) ran a 350 with that much cam if not more, and got it to work just fine for him. Your 400 will make the cam act milder.

might have to run open loop, that much is hard to say.

i'm not sure if the 730 will drive the holley 4 injector TBI setup, you'ld have to search the forum for that (i've not researched that setup and have no idea about it since I don't have anything like it).

but yes, it can be done. it will take tuning just like anything else, there is no such thing as an off the shelf chip that will be "right".

 

The intake is a victor jr style. It has 8 injectors on the sides with fuel rails. The throttle body is just aluminum with no injectors. I guess you would call it port injection.


Who can be trusted to make a chip and work with me on the set up?

 

No one but your self.

RBob.

 

i think most everyone on this forum would be in agreement that your best option is to Do It Yourself (hence DIY-PROM).

having someone calibrate a .BIN and make you a chip by mail is really not any different than someone sending you details about how to set up a carb and distributor by mail. with so many possibilities, you just can't possibly get it right without the first hand experience of driving the car, feeling and hearing how it responds to changes... even the experts of the board take several attempts at a tune for a new setup before calling it "close" let alone refined.

everything affects the tune. even if there was a magic formula to build a tune exactly for an engine (there isn't), you still can't account for external variables - tire height, drivetrain mass, gear ratio, vehicle weight, quality of the local fuel, driver style, intake and exhaust variations, etc. etc.

disregarding cost, if youre not willing/able to tune it yourself, then your next best option is to deliver the car to someone who can. They will need to spend a good deal of time with the car..driving it under different conditions, etc. It's no different than if you handed someone an untuned carb&distributor hotrod and said "here, tune it".

I don't know of anyone who offers such a service.

 

Hmm. you summarized what I said in a lot less words!

 

OK. Thanks guys.

 

I have a 406 SBC/ 242_250* duration cam/11.3:1 CR/stealth ram intake and using a 730. It runs really good. BTW, this is a street car with iron heads on 92 octane. You are going to need a huge shot of AE and it'll have to be of short duration, with that intake/throttle body.....

 

what times are you running.
I need a 6.80 or 6.90 in the 1/8 mile.

 

A small block 400 with 12.1 to 1 compression
200 runner heads with 2.05 int. 1.60 exh.
242int. 250exh. @.050 duration
.617 .640 lift
112 lsa
has a holley 4 bbl. style efi intake
1000 cfm 4bbl. throttle body by force fuel injection


It is a 3300lb. 69 camaro
powerglide 4500 convertor

 

What do you mean by big shot of AE at short bursts?

 

AE is acceleration enrichment. it is roughly the same thing as the accelerator pump on a carburetor. just like a carb has pump cams and squirters you can change, fuel injection can have the AE tuned too.

the style of intake you use is a big contributing factor to determine how much AE you need

 

Last year I ran about 8.5 @ 84 mph in the 1/8. That was with street tires and no traction. I just ported some aftermarket heads and installed them. So it'll be in the 7.xx range when the track opens. There is ALOT of cars running 10's or better (in the 1/4) with the factory ecm.

Just like a carb's accelerator circut, acceleration enrichment. Given the fact you are going to run 6.x in the 1/8, I would assume you know how and why the accelerator pump works. The reason i said about AE is because of your manifold type. I have never tuned that type before but that would be the first things I would try.

I just realized you are running a 4500 stall. In that case AE might not matter. Are you going to use a line lock and leave at WOT? If so then you'll might as well have AE disabled...

 

this is the neat part about diy EFI, you can do anything you want any way you want.

for leaving the line at WOT, AE may not matter at all.

but i think you still need it for staging and starting the burnout etc., basically any transitions from idle to non-idle..

 

Think about it, he has a 4500rpm stall. The engine will go into PE mode well before load is applied....

 

i do agree that, overall, there will be very little lower-rpm load applied to the engine... but even if you have the trans in neutral and jab the throttle (to simulate a very loose stall) you still need AE. it's the transisition from almost no airflow to significant airflow that has to be fed by AE, and that transition occurs even under no load conditions.

it's my opinion that you'd need ae to get the engine off idle. if you shut it down to 0, the engine would likely stumble or stall because the AFR would spike lean when you opened the throttle body but didn't compensate with fuel.

 

When the yellow lights are on, the car is staged, and he floors the throttle to bring the engine up to speed, that's when he'll need AE.

 

You will not need as much AE as you normally would with a stall of that speed.. But that intake may require a nice amount initialially as 11s stated. Also lower you Delta TPS to enable AE.
Which means: requires less throttle opening before AE is activated.
Also I hope that cam is a solid roller?

As well as how much duration your cam has.. what total overlap and overlap @ .050

 

FYI, 87_t/a has a 730 ecm and 400 block. Not sure what he runs in the 1/8 but it's alot more than me

 

OK guys

A friend that is going to help me told me this.

build it with this:

12 to 1 compression
6" rods
afr 220
112 lsa install at 108
242 at .050
250 at .050
1.7 rockers on intake .656
1.6 on exhaust .640
should make power up to 7000

 

Sounds nice!
Like I said I hope its a solid roller....
Also where are you getting 1.7 rockers for a sbc?

Also may want to look into a larger throttlebody - a 1000 cfm would be plenty enough according to calculations, but many people have shown nice gains by going larger on a 500+ HP engine.
I have a twin 58mm now but wish I could afford a mono blade.

 

yea its a solid roller

the throttle body is the only size they offer that is standard flange. The bigger ones are dominator bases.

 

Accel has a 1350. The rear is a mono blade. Think it fits a 4150 flange.

 

You might want to build an ecm bench to make sure things run right at that high of RPM with that much motor, first. Just off hand I don't know of anyone that's buzzed a 730 up that high.

Maybe someone that's gone up that high can verify things are still stable there.

 

Might cruise the GN lists, for a 70mm monoblade. Kinda rare, but they come up for sale from time to time, and obviously they have the right sensors.

 

works fine a 7k