$8D & 42 lb/hr injectors
$8D & 42 lb/hr injectors
Has anyone got 42 lb/hr injectors to run well with $8D?
It's a long story as to why, but basically I don't have time right now to first swap to the $58 setup and deal with getting that running right, but I need to install these Lightning injectors ASAP (next weekend) and I figure it would be easier to get them running right on the $8D that I already tuned the car with, dealing with $58 will have to come later.
What do I have to change aside from the injector constant? I would think I'd have to change the Injector Linearity Correction table at 062A also, am I right? What values might I need?
Any and all info will be appreciated, thank you.
It's a long story as to why, but basically I don't have time right now to first swap to the $58 setup and deal with getting that running right, but I need to install these Lightning injectors ASAP (next weekend) and I figure it would be easier to get them running right on the $8D that I already tuned the car with, dealing with $58 will have to come later.
What do I have to change aside from the injector constant? I would think I'd have to change the Injector Linearity Correction table at 062A also, am I right? What values might I need?
Any and all info will be appreciated, thank you.
Heh, maybe I'll have to take my chances with the $58. At least it's more documented with these injectors, apparantly.
At the worst it won't run so I'll have to tow it across the country, put it in storage for over a year without installing the TT kit, and drive my Talon the rest of the way to Cali to drive around for a year (bleh) instead of enjoying the car I just put $8k into and have worked on intensely for the last 7 months.
Yeah, that doesn't sound that bad. :/
At least it was a nice rainy day today!
At the worst it won't run so I'll have to tow it across the country, put it in storage for over a year without installing the TT kit, and drive my Talon the rest of the way to Cali to drive around for a year (bleh) instead of enjoying the car I just put $8k into and have worked on intensely for the last 7 months.
Yeah, that doesn't sound that bad. :/
At least it was a nice rainy day today!
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,621
Likes: 2
Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
I can only answer your question by saying yes, yes I've seen them run well.
Now how has that helped you? Probably not very much. Oh, and I wouldn't run $8D on a boosted vehicle but that's just an assumption I've had to make from your last reply... gotta give more details.
Now how has that helped you? Probably not very much. Oh, and I wouldn't run $8D on a boosted vehicle but that's just an assumption I've had to make from your last reply... gotta give more details.
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I wasn't going to boost it with $8D, sorry for the misunderstanding.
Here's the deal...
I transfer June 15th (less than two weeks) to California, but I'm stopping in Oklahoma for a month first. My dad is driving a truck and trailer here to help me move my cars and stuff. I really want to drive the Camaro from here to OK so I can make sure it'll make it that far at least. I'm going to put my Talon in storage there and drive my Camaro to CA, and the turbos need to be installed on it before I leave OK as I won't have enough room to get all the parts there without them being on the car.
Last week I ran the Camaro 1.5 quarts low on oil (DOH) because the oil leak is bigger than I thought, so a lifter collapsed. Tomorrow and Sunday I'll be replacing the lifters because of this, and since I'll have the TPI apart it would be stupid to skip out on installing the 42 lb injectors considering my time limitations and the fact that the 19 lb injectors (reused from the original 305) wouldn't support any boost at all. Right now my car is running on $8D, but I planned on switching to $58 in Oklahoma with the turbos since I'll have more time to get it running right (1.5 weeks of work left here vs. a month of leave there).
Originally I would have thought that it would be easier to just change a couple things in the $8D so I could drive my Camaro to OK, but people have been telling me it won't be that easy. I was wondering what I'd have to change to get it running good enough to drive 1400 miles without either sucking gas or leaning out and melting parts, and able to idle decent and start right back up after being shut off.
I have a $58 bin ready to try out, but from what I've seen of people's experiences, it's not very easy or quick to get that code running with an L98 and injectors that big.
So, here I am. I hope I can at least drive my car back 2 miles from the Auto Hobby Shop this weekend. :/
Here's the deal...
I transfer June 15th (less than two weeks) to California, but I'm stopping in Oklahoma for a month first. My dad is driving a truck and trailer here to help me move my cars and stuff. I really want to drive the Camaro from here to OK so I can make sure it'll make it that far at least. I'm going to put my Talon in storage there and drive my Camaro to CA, and the turbos need to be installed on it before I leave OK as I won't have enough room to get all the parts there without them being on the car.
Last week I ran the Camaro 1.5 quarts low on oil (DOH) because the oil leak is bigger than I thought, so a lifter collapsed. Tomorrow and Sunday I'll be replacing the lifters because of this, and since I'll have the TPI apart it would be stupid to skip out on installing the 42 lb injectors considering my time limitations and the fact that the 19 lb injectors (reused from the original 305) wouldn't support any boost at all. Right now my car is running on $8D, but I planned on switching to $58 in Oklahoma with the turbos since I'll have more time to get it running right (1.5 weeks of work left here vs. a month of leave there).
Originally I would have thought that it would be easier to just change a couple things in the $8D so I could drive my Camaro to OK, but people have been telling me it won't be that easy. I was wondering what I'd have to change to get it running good enough to drive 1400 miles without either sucking gas or leaning out and melting parts, and able to idle decent and start right back up after being shut off.
I have a $58 bin ready to try out, but from what I've seen of people's experiences, it's not very easy or quick to get that code running with an L98 and injectors that big.
So, here I am. I hope I can at least drive my car back 2 miles from the Auto Hobby Shop this weekend. :/
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,621
Likes: 2
Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
If you don't have time to tune it properly and test it out before a long road trip I'd avoid doing the swap. If you've got a few days to test it out go back to the original injectors then I'd do that. Changing the injector constant really does take care of a lot of issues. The $8D code is pretty good too with it's dependance on the actual size of the injector compared to other masks. Example; my mask uses injector on time for a lot of the calculations... which obviously through my tune all to **** when I change injectors (or pressure).
You should be fine with setting the size only. Do a few runs/datalogs and hot restarts to make certain there aren't any issues.
You should be fine with setting the size only. Do a few runs/datalogs and hot restarts to make certain there aren't any issues.
I tuned my buddy's 92 Z and had him install 42lb injectors. It runs 122mph in the 1/4 and gets 20+MPG. Yes, it can be done. Will it work that good for you, I don't know. Try it and find out. If you hit a brick wall then throw in the stockers and try raising the fuel pressure(while adjusting the injector constant).
I totally agree. Sometimes it's better to jump right in and see what happens...
Do a few runs/datalogs and hot restarts to make certain there aren't any issues.
Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
From: albuquerque
Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 350 L98 w/ D-1SC
Transmission: POS 700-R4
First off im a prom newbie and have paid people in the past to burn my proms. (learning myself now) I have a boosted car with 42 lb/hrs and an $8D that is working fine. It can be done.
Okay, well the car is almost back together. The lifters and injectors are in, just have to button up the rest of it.
I burned an $8D chip like my current good tune with the only changes being the injector constant changed from 19 to 42 and the idle raised 50 more RPM's to 850 just to help out a little. I will datalog/test it well providing I can get it home from the Hobby Shop.
I'll let you all know tomorrow how it works out.
Thanks for all the advice.
CRZYTRN, you're using an FMU right? Otherwise how are you feeding it extra fuel for boost?
I burned an $8D chip like my current good tune with the only changes being the injector constant changed from 19 to 42 and the idle raised 50 more RPM's to 850 just to help out a little. I will datalog/test it well providing I can get it home from the Hobby Shop.
I'll let you all know tomorrow how it works out.

Thanks for all the advice.
CRZYTRN, you're using an FMU right? Otherwise how are you feeding it extra fuel for boost?
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,098
Likes: 126
From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Originally posted by Steven89Iroc
CRZYTRN, you're using an FMU right? Otherwise how are you feeding it extra fuel for boost?
CRZYTRN, you're using an FMU right? Otherwise how are you feeding it extra fuel for boost?
-- Joe
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,098
Likes: 126
From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Originally posted by JPrevost
Or he could be using a 2-bar sensor.
Or he could be using a 2-bar sensor.
-- Joe
Well hopefully he chimes in and lets us know.
The car is done. At first it didn't want to idle or run, sounded bogged and lethargic. Of course the first thing I thought of was "Uh oh, here's all the big injector problems they (various people) were warning me about".
Turns out I hadn't set base timing yet, and it was really retarded, LOL.
I set that, now it idles better and a bit more consistent than it did before the swap! (I hadn't got it to idle well since I changed from the stock 305 chip).
I haven't datalogged yet, but it feels like the tune isn't very far off, only feels maybe a little down on power, that's nothing I can't get back in line. Acceleration and cruise are still fine.
When I get to Oklahoma I'll try the $58 conversion out before the turbo install and see what it does, at worst I'll go back to $8D until I figure out what isn't right.
Once again, thanks everyone for the info and advice, you are all much appreciated!
The car is done. At first it didn't want to idle or run, sounded bogged and lethargic. Of course the first thing I thought of was "Uh oh, here's all the big injector problems they (various people) were warning me about".
Turns out I hadn't set base timing yet, and it was really retarded, LOL.
I set that, now it idles better and a bit more consistent than it did before the swap! (I hadn't got it to idle well since I changed from the stock 305 chip).I haven't datalogged yet, but it feels like the tune isn't very far off, only feels maybe a little down on power, that's nothing I can't get back in line. Acceleration and cruise are still fine.
When I get to Oklahoma I'll try the $58 conversion out before the turbo install and see what it does, at worst I'll go back to $8D until I figure out what isn't right.
Once again, thanks everyone for the info and advice, you are all much appreciated!
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,098
Likes: 126
From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Originally posted by Steven89Iroc
Well hopefully he chimes in and lets us know.
The car is done. At first it didn't want to idle or run, sounded bogged and lethargic. Of course the first thing I thought of was "Uh oh, here's all the big injector problems they (various people) were warning me about".
Turns out I hadn't set base timing yet, and it was really retarded, LOL.
I set that, now it idles better and a bit more consistent than it did before the swap! (I hadn't got it to idle well since I changed from the stock 305 chip).
I haven't datalogged yet, but it feels like the tune isn't very far off, only feels maybe a little down on power, that's nothing I can't get back in line. Acceleration and cruise are still fine.
When I get to Oklahoma I'll try the $58 conversion out before the turbo install and see what it does, at worst I'll go back to $8D until I figure out what isn't right.
Once again, thanks everyone for the info and advice, you are all much appreciated!
Well hopefully he chimes in and lets us know.
The car is done. At first it didn't want to idle or run, sounded bogged and lethargic. Of course the first thing I thought of was "Uh oh, here's all the big injector problems they (various people) were warning me about".
Turns out I hadn't set base timing yet, and it was really retarded, LOL.
I set that, now it idles better and a bit more consistent than it did before the swap! (I hadn't got it to idle well since I changed from the stock 305 chip).I haven't datalogged yet, but it feels like the tune isn't very far off, only feels maybe a little down on power, that's nothing I can't get back in line. Acceleration and cruise are still fine.
When I get to Oklahoma I'll try the $58 conversion out before the turbo install and see what it does, at worst I'll go back to $8D until I figure out what isn't right.
Once again, thanks everyone for the info and advice, you are all much appreciated!
Mine is runing much better now. I gotta take a little more fuel out of AE, and maybe add some below 2000 rpm.. but from about 2100 to 6500 it seems better.
I dont think its down on power. If I nail it in any gear, my speedo goes up but the car doesnt.

-- Joe
Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
From: albuquerque
Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 350 L98 w/ D-1SC
Transmission: POS 700-R4
sorry for the late response. Yes I have an FMU from procharger. I am switching to a 1:1 fp regulator soon though. Its worth noting though that my old prom tuner picked me up a different map sensor before he ever started tuning the car. Said it was off an old boosted model. So without knowing for sure, Im under the impression I have a 2 bar sensor.
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