14lb P1SC / 383 / TKO600
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From: CT
Car: Used to drive a camaro
14lb P1SC / 383 / TKO600
So I'm ready to repin and burn (finally)
4bolt 1pc rear seal 350 block .030 over
Eagle Forged / Balanced 383 assembly
H-Beam Rods
-16cc Pistons
TPIS Bigmouth Intake
SLP Siamesed Runners
Holley 58mm throttle Body
Siemens 60lb injectors
MSD 6AL
Dart Iron Eagle Heads (215cc / 72cc)
Custom Comp Cam
Int: .520 / Exh .540
Duration Int.236 Exh.248
LSA: 113
Blower: ATI P1SC / 14lb pulley
Transmission:TK600 (still have 600 left to pay)
Clutch: SPEC Stage III
I'm still looking into fuel pumps and a BOV. My question is if I repin my 730 SD harness to 749. Modify a stock 749 bin to be 8cyl and 60lb injectors. Is this going to be enough to at least get the engine started and for break in (under 2000rpms for 300miles)?
4bolt 1pc rear seal 350 block .030 over
Eagle Forged / Balanced 383 assembly
H-Beam Rods
-16cc Pistons
TPIS Bigmouth Intake
SLP Siamesed Runners
Holley 58mm throttle Body
Siemens 60lb injectors
MSD 6AL
Dart Iron Eagle Heads (215cc / 72cc)
Custom Comp Cam
Int: .520 / Exh .540
Duration Int.236 Exh.248
LSA: 113
Blower: ATI P1SC / 14lb pulley
Transmission:TK600 (still have 600 left to pay)
Clutch: SPEC Stage III
I'm still looking into fuel pumps and a BOV. My question is if I repin my 730 SD harness to 749. Modify a stock 749 bin to be 8cyl and 60lb injectors. Is this going to be enough to at least get the engine started and for break in (under 2000rpms for 300miles)?
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From: CT
Car: Used to drive a camaro
One other bit about my build. I did a block fill (street fill) up to the bottom of the larger freeze plugs. Thinking of it now, is that going to negate the use of a knock sensor or will a knock sensor still function with the $58 or $60 code?
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Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 2,441
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From: sweden
Car: GTA -89
Engine: Blown 415"
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt
Perhaps, you may have to adjust both Ve tables (closed /open Throttle) and raise your timing as well at idle to get it to run "right".... Oh, bump the idle speed up some to keep it alive in the beginning........
When I started my "new" engine last year it fired right up with $58 code, then I adjusted timing and Ve at closed thottle then I started to adjust the area where I drove at 55 mph so I could take the car home from the shop.
When I started my "new" engine last year it fired right up with $58 code, then I adjusted timing and Ve at closed thottle then I started to adjust the area where I drove at 55 mph so I could take the car home from the shop.
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 7,554
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From: In reality
Car: An Ol Buick
Engine: Vsick
Transmission: Janis Tranny Yank Converter
Originally posted by AC
One other bit about my build. I did a block fill (street fill) up to the bottom of the larger freeze plugs. Thinking of it now, is that going to negate the use of a knock sensor or will a knock sensor still function with the $58 or $60 code?
One other bit about my build. I did a block fill (street fill) up to the bottom of the larger freeze plugs. Thinking of it now, is that going to negate the use of a knock sensor or will a knock sensor still function with the $58 or $60 code?
just drop the BPW/EGR values in 1/2. The syclones used 30 PPH injectors. And set the cyl sel to 8.
It's impossible to say with absolute certainty about filling the block, so far of the few people I've talked to about it, it hasn't been a problem, BUT, you ALWAYS have to verify what's going on in your application. Making assumptions with engines can be costly.
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From: CT
Car: Used to drive a camaro
People,
Thanks for the replies thus far. I don't know exactly how a know sensor "senses" knock. I didn't know if the block filler material renders the knock sensor useless or do I need to "adjust" the knock sensor flags/tables in my .bin.
Thanks for the replies thus far. I don't know exactly how a know sensor "senses" knock. I didn't know if the block filler material renders the knock sensor useless or do I need to "adjust" the knock sensor flags/tables in my .bin.
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