Howdy guys. I'm trying to start burning my own chips, but this is a lot more complicated than I expected. I have my pocket programmer, running their software.

I wanted a chip that could be electronically erased because I didn't want to mess with the UV stuff and someone on here advised me to get the "AT29C256" amtel chip so I ordered some from moates.

Well I had it in my programmer last night, and I was trying to erase it to make sure it was blank, but I couldn't. The program's help guide said that an "erase" button would automatically appear if I selected the appropriote chip but it didn't for this chip.

What's the deal, I thought these were electronically erasable?

 

Its AT29C256, and you can just program right over the previous program.

 

Ok well I loaded a bin into the Win PP buffer, and then tried to program it into the chip.

But it said device not programmed. Why isn't it programming? the chip is fully seated into the pocket programmer, all the way back with 4 spaces up front. The unit is plugged in. I tried two blank chips from moates.

Also, anyone know where to get a good AUJP .bin? I downloaded one off on some site but I think it's defective, I couldn't read it off my floppy.

 

What programmer are you using? Pocket Programmer II by Xtronics? Make sure you have AT29C256 in the device box. Also, one other thing I can think of, make sure you do not move your mouse while the programming is taking place.

 

I sent you mail

 

Ok I are stoopid. I forgot that the outlet that I had my pocket programmer 2 plugged into was controlled by a separate light switch on the wall that was off. I flipped it on and it's programming fine now. I just have a couple more questions.

Do I need to mess with the starting address on my chips when I program them? Do I just leave it at 0000? I don't want all my data to be in the wrong place. Do I just load a bin into the buffer then program the chip and it will all be in the right place and good to go?

Also, Does my ECM have to be fully disconnected from the battery when replacing chips? I have the moates ez ziff socket adapter. I went to grab my current chip out yesterday to check it out and there was a little static electricity zap from my finger to the chip. Can this damage anything and if so how do I prevent doing this again?

Finally, is there any good simple explanation of all the tables in tunercat, and how to adjust the values to suit your car? The flag ones are easy enough but all the other stuff is like greek to me.

 

As I understand it, you SHOULD disconnect the battery (or the cables going into the ECM) when you swap chips. Now having said that, I admit I don't always do that. However, you need to disconnect the power to the ECM for a few minutes to erase any past "learning" of the fuel tables if those are what's been changed with the new chip.

Since I don't know the PPII very well, I can't answer your address question. My Moates Flash-N-Burn automatically puts the correct address in for me.

As for the static - that's not good. Believe me, I'm in the computer business. That can harm a lot more than just the chip you touched, it can harm anything in the entire ECM. One time PROBABLY didn't hurt anything, but next time you're crouched down and getting ready to touch the ECM at all FIRST reach over and touch some metal like the door hinge before touching the ECM.

As for the TunerCat tables question - that's the million dollar question my friend. All I can suggest is you read thru the HELP for Tunercat and all the stickies at the top of the DIY area. It comes to you, but it takes quite a while to learn what all of them do. I'm still learning myself. Luckily most of them won't have to be changed! The most common changes are in teh VE table (a percentage of Volumetric Efficiency - think of it as unit of gasoline added) and the Spark tables (which control the spark advance like the old vacuum advance dizzy, only with a lot more control).

Good Luck, and don't hesitate to ask SPECIFIC questions as you delve into this stuff. I didn't, and I still do!!!



And you're not "stoopid", we're just "ignorant" of what everything does since we're still learning it. There's a Big Difference!

(at least I HOPE there is!!!!

 

Thats great advice Vern! I already had my bad luck with ESD, and had to throw away 4 eproms, and send my programmer back for repair. Now I keep an eye on what I'm doing. I keep all vinyl materials away from my work area, store the eproms in anti static foam, and store everything in "pink" plastic. Remember, the static shock you CANT feel is enough to kill an eprom, or other sensitive electronic equipment.

 

One other item to think about is to let the ECM sit for 10 seconds after turning the key off before removing the chip.
The ECM may still have some power remaining and could be accessing the prom.
Some guys had problems but only after a while of not waiting and pulling chips that they began to go bad on them.
I just pull the fuses to clear memory after changing major items, other times I just go for a long drive and let it relearn. Sometimes (like with VE, spark changes) the learned stuff will make it drive like crap so its best to clear it every time and let it relearn from scratch.
Jp

Edit: since you are running AUJP, check here.
Its a nice start to an online reference. It is for TunerPro (that you should get a copy of anyway) but all still applies. It just looks a bit different.
http://www.edgesz28.com/edgesz28/sup.../Super8ecu.htm

 

So does anyone know if the default starting adress is ok with the pocket programmer 2? (0000 I believe)