Mega Project near completion..where to start?
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From: CT
Car: Used to drive a camaro
Mega Project near completion..where to start?
I'm nearing the point at which I can turn the ignition key. I've been studying DIY Prom for almost 8 months now and am going to be running a repinned 730 with the 749 ($58 code). Do I start with the $58 code and switch the few flags like 8cylinder, no egr, etc then try and get the BLM's squared away? I am running a 14lb blower but don't think I'd be looking at the PE yet. After BLM's are squared away do I tackle PE? Just looking for some general guidance.
The specs for my car are:
P1SC w/ 14# pulley
4 bolt balanced 383
Eagle 4340 stroker crank
-16cc pistons
Hbeam rods
Dart Iron Eagle 215's (72cc combustion chambers)
Harland Sharp 1.5 RR's
Custom ground Comp Cam (int lift:.520 / exh lift:.540
duration @ .050 int 236 exh 248 LSA 113
Tremek tk600
SPEC stage 3+ clutch
Alum flywheel
TPIS Bigmouth Intake
SLP siamesed runners
Holley 58mm TB
(looking at Racetronix 60# injectors)
Running tunercat and $58 code
The specs for my car are:
P1SC w/ 14# pulley
4 bolt balanced 383
Eagle 4340 stroker crank
-16cc pistons
Hbeam rods
Dart Iron Eagle 215's (72cc combustion chambers)
Harland Sharp 1.5 RR's
Custom ground Comp Cam (int lift:.520 / exh lift:.540
duration @ .050 int 236 exh 248 LSA 113
Tremek tk600
SPEC stage 3+ clutch
Alum flywheel
TPIS Bigmouth Intake
SLP siamesed runners
Holley 58mm TB
(looking at Racetronix 60# injectors)
Running tunercat and $58 code
Last edited by AC; Oct 16, 2005 at 06:31 PM.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,692
Likes: 1
From: Corona
Car: 92 Form, 91 Z28, 89 GTA, 86 Z28
Engine: BP383 vortech, BP383, 5.7 TPI, LG4
Transmission: 4L60e, 700R4, 700R4..
Axle/Gears: 3.27, 2.73
BUY A WIDEBAND A/F Meter. Probably want to run open loop - but try closed loop first if you want. You'll save so much time with the wideband, and run much better and sooner, and safer on the engine.
Don't try to calibrate the high loads (any boost) with PE off, just don't go to high loads until the VE/BLMs are squared away (if CL), then go into PE, and measure the A/F with the wideband. Adjust the boost VE to get the A/F to match the commanded PE A/F, roughly.
Spark will depend on your combination and fuel. Don't be aggressive with it. At 14 PSI, you're creating a dangerous environment for pump gas.
Don't try to calibrate the high loads (any boost) with PE off, just don't go to high loads until the VE/BLMs are squared away (if CL), then go into PE, and measure the A/F with the wideband. Adjust the boost VE to get the A/F to match the commanded PE A/F, roughly.
Spark will depend on your combination and fuel. Don't be aggressive with it. At 14 PSI, you're creating a dangerous environment for pump gas.
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From: CT
Car: Used to drive a camaro
You say 14PSI is dangerous on pump gas. What would you think if my motor is only around 8.7:1, intercooled and 93 octane? Should I still think about pulling some timing out and octane boost?
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 7,554
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From: In reality
Car: An Ol Buick
Engine: Vsick
Transmission: Janis Tranny Yank Converter
Originally posted by AC
You say 14PSI is dangerous on pump gas. What would you think if my motor is only around 8.7:1, intercooled and 93 octane? Should I still think about pulling some timing out and octane boost?
You say 14PSI is dangerous on pump gas. What would you think if my motor is only around 8.7:1, intercooled and 93 octane? Should I still think about pulling some timing out and octane boost?
The turbo buicks and syclone guys typically run 20 PSI on pump gas. I was running 28 for along time, but had some durability issues running that much, 26 seemed to be safe. Now, on 87 I run 22 PSI effortlessly. But, I've been tweaking on it for along time.
Even with an intercooler, alky injection works. www.alkycontrol.com is one of the better (if not the best) ones available..
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,692
Likes: 1
From: Corona
Car: 92 Form, 91 Z28, 89 GTA, 86 Z28
Engine: BP383 vortech, BP383, 5.7 TPI, LG4
Transmission: 4L60e, 700R4, 700R4..
Axle/Gears: 3.27, 2.73
Yeah, I didn't mean not possible, just not a walk in the park for reliability. Note the spark timing trends in a stock turbo timing table, and you'll see that as boost increases, the map pulls timing for you, but I'd start with a stock map, minus 2 degrees in boost.
Sounds like a doable combination.
Would be sweet if you could rig (engineer) some water injection or alcohol up to a knock signal. Could get all fancy with that, just thinking about it makes me want to delete what I just wrote and make some kit, but I don't have the time.
Sounds like a doable combination.
Would be sweet if you could rig (engineer) some water injection or alcohol up to a knock signal. Could get all fancy with that, just thinking about it makes me want to delete what I just wrote and make some kit, but I don't have the time.
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From: CT
Car: Used to drive a camaro
Grumpy, wow!! It's good to know that the DIY team has you on board. I'm only beginning to get into burning and did I ever pick a monumental project. Looking at the alky kit you liisted they suggest a 3bar MAP. Why is that? If I'm only pushing <= 14PSI then wouldn't a 2bar suffice?
On the timing map. My understanding is I would adjust the map to pull 2 degrees out per 1psi of boost in the upper RPM (2k+) ranges (or when knock count dictates) correct?
On the timing map. My understanding is I would adjust the map to pull 2 degrees out per 1psi of boost in the upper RPM (2k+) ranges (or when knock count dictates) correct?
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