I started this new thead because I felt I was hi-jacking "seen lots of info, but how hard is this to actually do ". I did a 305 to 350 swap of the same year 89' and used all new parts 1227165 ecm,memcal,injectors,distrib. everything. I bought a motor with 40,000 miles on a rebuild that included everything!!! The only thing not changed was the knock moduel [esc]. The 305 got 21 MPG, but had bad injector coil's. everything was stock. The new motor get's 20 MPG and has 2460 hooker shorties with hooker y-pip w/o cat. conv. also air tubes and pump are removed. Has a very mild aftermarket chip for 350. Don't remeber witch, but I looked it up before and it was a pussycat chip. I just made a ALDL serial cable and ran winALDL. My O2 is working jumps from .110 to .785 volts when push throtle and my data flags say i'm in closed loop. however the rich flag is showing also. I know my car is rich because I can smell it !!! Now I just started this prom thing and want to know what am I looking for and is there a way to get the car into highway/lean mode. I know I HAVE to get the knock sensor before I start leaning anything out , but am I headed in the right direction?

 

The more I read, the more I see I need tunepro etc. That's the one with most info. Found my blm are 110-115 and int 125-130. Can only get data on wide latest or wide avg. Data is alittle higher on avg. setting. IAC is 65 which is the lowest it can go on idle and goes up as throttle increases. My question is, " when you guy's tune, do you run the car with the computer on, then once you get the setting's the way you want, then you burn the prom? I know YES, but I guess I want to know is how long do you tune and drive around before your ready to burn? Can you tune alittle then just burn and try the prom for a while or are you guys driving around town with the laptop hooked-up everywhere? I can't tune with winaldl right? I have to get the RIGHT stuff, don't I ?

 

I've been meaning to post with some insight, I think it's time to do so.

With your vehicle being mostly stock start out with a stock L98 BIN. Ed has a bunch of stock MAF BIN's here:

http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/index.html

Get one for an f-body, the y-body's had different heads (aluminum '113). See if you can get Tuner Pro RT, Scanner Pro, or Data Master to log at the higher rate (8192) WinALDL is OK but logs slower on your ECM. Data logging is key, it gives the tuner a window into the engine.

With the exhaust smell, is the cat OK. If none present or shot it will smell (somewhat).

Make sure that there are NO LEAKS past the MAF. Otherwise all heck breaks loose. Any air that isn't metered by the MAF throws the tune off.

When burnig new tunes, when startig out, do everything with the engien up to operating temperature. Once al that is OK, then move on to the cold, warm up, and overheat conditions.

Getting the MAF tables in line is basically the first step.

RBob.

 

Thanks for the info. Been online almost all day and have really found some good info. I think I'll have to breakdown and get the 3in1 apu1. That way I can do the emulation. I hate to spend $250 for the burn1 and all the cables, socket adaptors etc. when I can spend $425.00 and get something I'll be happy with. I have an addictive personallity so I've learned to get what I need the first time instead of not being happy with the lesser, then spend more money to get what I want. I see how the emulator works...cool. Right now I only have the single transistor cable I made reading 160 braud with winaldl so the tunerpro don't work. I got the data logger working now and reading it with MS excel. What should I be concerned with? I can see my sensors are all working fine. What colums are the ones I need to study? I want to know what I'm logging and get familair with the terms..etc. so when I'm ready for the APU1, I'll have a good grasp of what I'm doing.