Im putting the finishing touches on a 383 for my trans am, originally a 305 tpi car. When I'm finished with it, I'll be using an LS1 TB and MAF with a $6E bin.

But with the new engine, new memcal, new prom (which will be my first attempt at prom burning), and all the changes to the wiring harness, what are the odds that the engine will start up within 3-5 secs of cranking, like it's supposed to on a break-in start up?

Would I be better off putting my tpi intake on it and keeping my $32 bin to break it in? All I should have to change is the cylinder volume in the bin right?

 

Yes, a bit of a tight spot. As you are thinking go with the TPI intake, stock MAF, injectors and the MEMCAL to match. There isn't an engine displacement value as it is a MAF set up. As long as the base timing is close and everything is hooked up correctly it should start right up.

You mentioned using an LS1 MAF. Note that it is a high frequency unit while the stock MAF is an analog unit (voltage output).

RBob.

 

Well if I dont have to touch the chip, it's one less thing for me to screw up!

I was aware that the two MAF's were different and I'd need one if these: http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/ite...ic=050LS1TRANS
As far as the TB is concerned, the only thing I'll need is the wiring harness connectors for the TPS and IAC, and a wiring diagram right?

For timing, I think I'll adjust that manually for the first start. Ie, unplug the 5-pin connector and leave the hold down clamp loose. Any problems with doin it that way?

 

On the MAF, didn't look at the link but know that FullThrottle sells translators. So good to go there.

TPS & IAC, important to make sure that the TPS is wired correctly. If backwards the engine will crank in clear flood mode. Which adds very little fuel and typically won't start. Can check it at key-on, engine-off with a scan tool.

The connectors and wiring will help in getting them connected. For the IAC, short A&B on the ALDL connector, key-on, engine-off. The IAC should continually step outward (extend). Don't do this with it out of the TB unless restrained.

Distributor, BTDT, and is a good way to go. I usually leave a timing light connected for ease of use/checking.

Although, 5-pin connector, there should be a single wire EST/BYPASS connector. Open that. The ECM needs the signals from the 5-pin connector in order to fire the injectors. So leave it connected and open the single wire connector (BYPASS).

RBob.