Ok i am very new to fuel injection, i have been reading a lot on this form and have learned so much. hears the deal i have a 1983 caprice classic (yes i know big 4 door) i have built the car from the ground up engine, trans, rear end, suspension. 350 with the old 305 heads i put the 1.94 valves in them an good porting job used the heads because they have small chambers. 10.5:1 compression ratio. i have a comp cam 268/268 with 110 deg lobe separation, with 4 deg. advance. 1.5 intake 1.6 exhaust roller tip rockers long tube hooker headers. ran a carb for years 13.8 1/4 time. wanted tpi got every thing together made my own harness and had MAF 165ecu got it all together and the car ran better then with a carb. but the MAF went bad so i went to the 730 sd. used this site to help with the repining of the ecu. i have every thing to tune the car, changed the .bin from a 91 z28 to my 28lb injectors and vats and the egr, about the most i know how to do right now, but when i start the car witch is very hard, it runs very very bad can't keep it running long enough to figure anything out runs 10- 15 sec. i have set the tps and timing per the many post i have read. i'm just looking for any tips to get a base line to make the car run so i can start (learning to) tuning it. i'm not begging i know thats a no no just looking for some pointers to get the car to run, any help would be great. I really don't want to go back to Maf, cuz i made a cowl hood and it would not be very easy to connect the intake to the hood with the maf. Thanks!

 

Man that could be anything after an ECM change?

That's also a pretty big cam for a stock chip... just guessing low vacuum at idle is making it very rich. Just to start it and clear out the flooded engine you could put a vacuum pump on the MAP sensor and get 19 inches and try firing it up to clear out and run long enough to see if a code sets?

Is the CEL coming on with key on and a blink and staying on till engine starts? This would be a first clue ECM is working...

HTH!

 

thanks for the reply, yes the Cel comes on blinks and stays on i have two 730 ecm's checked them in a friends car they are both good, i tried something like what you said, (i do not have a vacuum pump should i get one) i used a vacuum reservoir without the one way valve in line with the map and it would stumble up to about 800rpm it will only run long enough for me to see my motor is pulling 3~5 inches of vacuum before it would die, about 1 min of run time maybe less. it smells rich, i know it has low vac i had modified the power valve on my carb so it would not run so rich. so if low vac is the prob what table or value would i change or start with so i can get it to at least idle, should i tell the ecm i have biger injectors and smaller motor (305 or 285) so it would lean it out?

 

3 to 5 inches of vacuum?

Ahhhh... you got issues... the motor was running before the ECM swap right? If you use a vacuum pump to get MAP to about 19 you may be able to get it running and clean it out. Then see what vacuum reading is on motor. Then going to have to get idle up higher, add some timing to idle to get some vacuum. Then you can work on leaning out VE for idle. May have to force an open loop idle?

What's the cam specs on that @.050? Did you degree your cam? You just gotta have more than 3-5 inches of vacuum....

 

yes the motor ran good for the most part, drivable. i did the vac pump thing. i had to play with it (long vacuum line into the car) but got it up to 1000rpm ~12 inches (new vacuum gauge too) of vacuum. had the map almost at 20 inches. the spec on the cam @.050 int 228/ex 228 Hydraulic Roller. most factory grinds for street stuff have 4deg advace made into them mind did not (old cam). so because my car is so heavy i advanced the cam, 6deg advance was the goal but valve to piston were very tight. (used .015 head gaskets kills the knocking so i could run leaner mix) so i went with 4deg. i looked at the VE tables on some other bins, it is very different car to car. i was not able to learn as much as i would have liked to, so i'm reading up on VE tables and there effect. also i thought the car was in open loop at idle until it warmed up. if not and it's in closed loop do i change the temp or the time delay? to force open loop at idle. And thank you very much for that piece of advice. (vacuum pump)

 

It's just trick to get big cam motor running and cleared of being flooded. It's also how I break in a new big cam on a stock tune.

You have lots of tuning to do...

 

ok got the car to start and run after playing with the VE tables. the cel came on so i turned it off and got code 41, i did some reading on it and could the prob be i used a memcal out of a v6 car because my dog chewed on the one i have from the v8, do i need to change to the v8 memcal the chips are fine but the esc over them is not. thanks

 

Code 41 Cylinder Select error. Faulty or incorrect Memcal...

Get a V8 Correct Memcal and shoot the dog...

 

agreed. Wrong Memcal. you are running on the limp home mode using V6 backup fuel and spark. Will never run this way and you are killing your engine. Check EBay. Type in search - AUJP Memcal. I sell what you need there.

 

Those aujp v6 conversions are a crud way to go. but if you have no choice, I would rather run a axxb knock. there only $110 new.

 

Don't know about "crud" but, they certainly are not crude. I have over one hundred satisfied customers including major tuners who have purchased these modified memcals with no complaints. 83Fast has a 350 NOT a 305 so a AXXB Memcal is a terrible suggestion. Plus, you can not find V8 Memcals new, nor for much under $300. If you have a source, please let us know so we can buy them up fast. You also seem to have missed the fact that he is trying to run the 350 V8 on a V6 Memcal. It is in limp home mode and he is trying to modify the V6 code to get it running. All of the fuel and spark maps are incorrect for his motor.

 

check p/n 16163062 whole sale its $111. yes I know we are talking about a a 350 engine. I don't believe tgo condones Fishing.

 

The only issue with using a V6 MEMCAL with a TPI BIN is that the injector firing rate is incorrect. The MEMCAL pin 56 sets the ECM hardware that fires the injectors.

RBob.

 

Just curious, doesn't soldering heat destroy the sst ?
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...d-density.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/dfi-...d-memcals.html

 

The aujp's are not that hard to find, I think I have 2 more !

 

Just tie pin 56 on the MEMCAL to ground (pin 14 of the PROM is one ground). That will set the proper injector firing rate and rid the ECM of code 41.

RBob.

 

If I have it correctly, 62,53,46,37,39,31,27 are all grounds.

 

I find it easier to solder in a SST chip then the dip socket. Never had an issue with damaging the chip. But I do have a soldering station with selectable heat range, fine tip soldering tip, touch of flux on each chip leg then push it in. Quick solder, blow it out when done with compressed air. Never a failure.

 

I have tried just pushing in a eprom with vibration connection failure. I would rather trust a dip but good to know.

 

Pushed the chip in then soldered!

 

People are hoarding them.

 

Check where? GM doesn't have them. Most people can't buy wholesale. I appreciate any help finding these.

 

I agree. have done hundreds without failure just be quick and don't put more heat than needed. You should have no problem. I also don't recommend DIP adapters as they don't perform well after awhile because of vibration and corrosion.

 

They are produced in singapore by delphi electronics, run the acdelco #

 

you must be thinking zif !

 

yes, I am. Thanks

 

I had a v8 memcal but it was damaged and was to far gone for me. but i have the calpack (the two little chips under the esc) from the v8. i will swap them over to my v6 memcal, but do i need to swap the esc as well? or are those the same?(it is bad, well i assume so because it's in two peaces). and i'm using the SST 27sf512 i soldered it in the memcal and i made an adapter from a old hard drive plug for my burn 2 seems to work fine. i'm useing the S_AUJP_v4 bin as a starting point. now i also have several 165 memcals, can i use one of those calpacks? if it came down to it. also can you program your own calpak?

 

The netres is a series of resisters you can not program it

 

Basically what you are doing is rebuilding the memcal so yes you need to move the two network resistors from the V8 memcal to the "V6" memcal and tunedperformanc is correct of course that you cannot program those resistors. the sst512 is good as is S_AUJP_v4 bin as a starting bin. No the 165 network resistors are way different and for MAF cars. If the V8 knock filter board is broken and you can't transfer it to the "V6" memcal, you need to program out the knock filter in the bin as well as the error words also in the bin. You will have no knock timing adjustment but that in my opinion is OK as it doesn't work well anyway.

 

I'm confused by your statement that you made an adapter from a old hard drive. The cable to connect to a burn2 is a regular USB cable and nothing special. Is that what you mean or something else?

 

the adapter i made was from the memcal to the burn 2 cuz i did not use a zif on the memcal. and the old 90's hard drive had the same pin spacing, i forgot to buy the adapter so i made one. i change the resistor packs/ calpack today, code 41 went away and the car ran better i can not change the board above the calpack it's broken, i used the v6 one. i have very smallquench space, i don't think i need to worry about detonation do i ? how would you go about removing the knock counts, is it a flag? i did a search and did not find much on that yet still looking. and thanks for the info.

 

That is quite a good idea. I know I have those laying around also. Remember to only use 28 pins next to the notch and all the way away from the notch.
Using TunerPro RT 5 make sure you use the XDF and ADX files that go with your S_AUJP_v4 bin or you may not see all of the parameters. Knock enable Min. temp is a scalar. setting it as high as possible will disable it.
Under Flags Error Word WD3 - Bit 4- Err 43 (ESC) Elecronic Spark Control un-checking it turns off the error code

 

AXXB + 305 Knock sensor works GREAT on my 383 TPI with noisy roller rockers on it. It has no false knock, yet responds very well to actual detonation. Very similart to what GM did with the LT4. LT4 used a Vortec 305 knock sensor and a special filter.

 

Very good for you. But are you saying you used a AXXB 305 Memcal with a 383 and didn't reprogram it? Or, used the AXXB as a Memcal base with a reprogrammed Prom? Every motor has it's own unique frequency response. Actually a 4.3 V6 filter and a 4.3 sensor works well on a 5.7 but I have found a 5.0 filter and sensor hardly works at all on a 5.7. Very little knock count if any. I do know that the further away from stock you get with a modified motor or a high mileage engine, the less a knock system is effective. usually with very high knock counts. thats why racers and and rodders like to disable knock system all together. Just my opinion.

 

AXXB was used as a Base with a Memcal adapter and I ran S-AUJPv4

 

That's what I thought. I have also done that with good results. The backup fuel is very close and If used, as you did, with the 5.0 sensor, should have no knock errors.

 

now that i have the car running i get a low vacuum code 33, is this norma? and would you just uncheck the code 33 flag? or do i have another prob. i have messed with the timing to try and get more vacuum,i get 14 inches of vacuum but still code 33. and thanks to all of you for your help so far.

 

It is better to think of it as a MAP high error. This may be caused by the cam or it may be that the MAP sensor isn't wired or plumbed correctly. Look at the raw MAP value in the data stream and see if it is correct or just hanging high.

If it just hangs high then it is an issue with the MAP sensor set up.

If it is just high in general from the cam need to change the MAP High malfunction code threshold. These:

An engine that is struggling to run can also set the MAP high error.

Note that you can't do any tuning while that error is active. The ECM will create a MAP value via N-Alpha mode and ignore the MAP sensor.

RBob.

 

been driving the car no codes now, thanks RBob, still need to work on the tune. but my motor seems to like efi. efi is the way to go, alot more work but it's worth it in the end, my car seems faster then when i had a carb (have not run on a track yet) and i like sd more then maf, better throttle response. i would just like to thank all of you on hear. you have been a huge help and the whole thirdgen DIY community i would not have gotten this done with out yall and your collective knowledge.

 

i noticed that you can change the ppm for the vss input in the bin. but what type of signal does it need. i have an after market 16K ppm hall effect sender for my speedo can i just run the signal as is to the ecm and just change the setting in the bin from 4000ppm to 16k ppm?

 

the 7730 with 8D can use either a magnetic speed signal or digital speed input like from a DRAC from a pickup, although it requires some wiring and bit/switch changes to use a DRAC/speed buffer.
if your speed sensor outputs a magnetic signal, then changing the pulse per mile should work.
so you know, the VSS input to the ECM is needed to tune the computer, without a good speed signal, the ECM will never get out of cell 4.

 

The 83 Caprice should have an optical VSS behind the speedo like my 83 G20 did. That can go directly into the 7730 running 8D, only have to pin the wire correctly and set the correct switch bit.

 

thats what i did when i had MAF but now, i don't have stock gauges lol but thanks.