I am getting under my car and it looks like passenger side between 6&8 plugs the knock sensor with a 1 wire open face style plug is disconnected.

My car starts and runs and idles and timing est and not seems to be ok

It definitely sounds like misfire and lean in TP with BLM most plugs seem ok a few are rich others slightly lean could be injectors.

But I have not driven much, on the gas PT it definitely feels retarded or sounds like underwater a little.

I am changing plugs, knock counts look low 9-20 range sometimes 0-5 at idle.

TP and Datamaster look to be 31 deg at OL and 21 at CL about what is in the tables.

where do you control the knock sensor switch limit for retard in the bin?
where can i monitor spark retard in TP?

can I test my sensor in the block?

 

That would be the coolant temperature switch for the fan. The knock sensor is down lower by the pan rail. In front of the starter. Note that they both use the same connector and it is common for the two to get swapped.

RBob.

 

So there are 2 sensors nearby the upper one is disconnected the lower one is still connected

But cts seems to work up by the TB and tuner pro and ECM report no codes at all
So what problems will I see with this unplugged ?

 

It isn't the CTS for the ECM. It is a switch to turn on the cooling fan once the engine coolant temperature reaches about 228* F.

RBob.

 

Ok emergency thing my fan kicks on now but Motor is screeching and going to replace
The left driver side one the right one is for ac which have not used yet

So is there a reason to unhook this?

 

The secondary fan temp switch is close to the exhaust. the terminal housing often wraps over time or becomes brittle and breaks. You can repin it with a delphi 13510096 black housing. Or 13510097 for grey.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...EI%252bgV1HA==