Hey guys,

I have swapped a '165 into my car, my blocks at the machinist and I soon will be the proud owner of a slightly beefy 355. Here's a quick run down of what i'll be playing with
Dart Pro 1 200cc heads
SVO 24lb/hr injectors
Comp cam custom grind 216/222 .510/.510 112
semi-siamesed edelbrock base
fully siamesed and ported SLP runners/plenum
52mm TB

Well this engine (that's costing me a pretty penny) is going to be fired up on a stock 350 prom (dont have the code with me) and I'm wondering if it will run on it? It will have to go through its break in process with that prom and I want to know if this is a bad idea and going to cause me any damage? After its broken in and running I'll tune the '165 till I'm happy, then swap to a '730.
My question is this
What will I have to change in the 165?
Timing (a given)
Injector constant?
Will I need to play with any fuel tables?

I'd like to see 12's with the short block some day (forged pistons, ibeam rods, 9.7:1 compression) what do you think?
And what will I gain going from the 165 to 730?

(anybody know a good river to chuck a 870 into?)

 

Oh yes one more question

I keep hearing of the flash prom, will that work for a 165? or is that just a '730 thing?

thanks again!

 

I did a similar 355 swap starting w/ the '165 and found it was very tolerant of the induction and exhaust mods. You'll need to up the injector flowrate constant to match the SVO 24# units...I'd start at 26# assuming you're running ~45psi pressure at the rail.

Also, set the initial spark advance value to match the static timing you dial in w/ the timing light. Depending on the code you're running, it will be in the 6deg BTDC area.

With the lumpy cam, you may want to adjust the 'idle speed vs. coolant temp' table to speed it up enough to keep vacuum.

These will be enough to get it started and idling, from there it's all about grabbing ALDL data and adjusting what needs adjusted. The main spark table, PE fuel and spark tables, and fan on/off settings will be where you'll spend the most time in my experience. Bruce (Grumpy) Plecan wrote a **GREAT** tutorial called 'Tuning 101' found under the www.diy-efi.org page...summary is to tune part-throttle based on the knock sensor and BLM data, tune WOT based on the knock and O2 sensors.

My last '165 bin (ran 13.1sec @ 102mph) is at:
http://members.fbody.com/kevinc/bins/2arap13.bin if you want something to compare against. This is based on the ARAP code which is considered to be the best starting point...hotter spark tables, better IAC behavior, and it's 1989 code which was the last year for the MAF and includes fixes learned along the way.

 

Wow excellent response! and sounds great

What do you think of the 200cc intake runner on TPI? I know the vollocity issues, i feel that where a carb guy would loose torque i'll have it anyways, and hopefully i'll gain some upper end performance and HP.

Thanks a million

 

You'll like that combo a lot. I'm running pretty much the same thing with a longer stroke and 9.5 compression. I ran my car for a 1 1/2 years on the stock 165 chip. It ran rich because of the fuel injector constant being stock. I'm now programming my own chips and the car runs great.

Are you keeping the cold start injector functional. If not you'll have to disable it (Not provided for in the ARAP code if you use it). Also you'll have to disable VATS in the code.

I'm using the ARAP spark and fuel tables but in the AYPU ('89 TA)code. Had a problem with ARAP causing the car to run lean (I think it was something to do with the EGR controls).

Sparks a flyin'

 

Awesome! finally someone running those heads!!

What do you think about the streetability?

 

Very streetable. Idle is just a little bit lumpier than stock (due to rather smallish cam). I recently did a road trip of appx 180 miles. Got 21 mpg, with 3.73 gears and the TCC lockup not working.

Sparks a flyin'