First steps
#52
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Re: First steps
Just alittle soldering, or you can send in your ecm.
http://www.dynamicefi.com/EBL_P4_Install.php
hopefully you still have your anjf or aujp memcal for knock sensor function.
http://www.dynamicefi.com/EBL_P4_Install.php
hopefully you still have your anjf or aujp memcal for knock sensor function.
Last edited by Tuned Performance; 02-26-2019 at 06:51 PM.
#55
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Re: First steps
The aldl1 cable you can buy separately. You need a xtreme aldl or a 12 pin cable from aldlcables.com.
http://aldlcable.com/
http://www.moates.net/aldu1-and-cabl....html?cPath=64
http://aldlcable.com/
http://www.moates.net/aldu1-and-cabl....html?cPath=64
#58
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Re: First steps
You can check with rbob but I think this is a good knock filter
https://www.ebay.com/itm/16177700-1994-1995-LT1-Firebird-Camaro-5-7L-Knock-module/183537848369?epid=19005497959&hash=item2abbb55031:g:lcsAAOSw0ZRb7cPw:sc:USPSPriority!20876!US!-1
You can always use your memcal but I think the cover of the ecm needs to stay off or the blue cover needs to stay off the memcal. The knock filter on your memcal should have a second digit of R . Rbob doesn’t agree with the identification but even speed density memcal I have seen has a r for the second digit. If you don’t have this r the memcal has been swapped out and the knock filter will not work and you might get false knock. If you did a exchange with Scott you might have gotten a v6 memcal. I heard he uses them instead of v8 ones. The knock filter will not work properly.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/16177700-1994-1995-LT1-Firebird-Camaro-5-7L-Knock-module/183537848369?epid=19005497959&hash=item2abbb55031:g:lcsAAOSw0ZRb7cPw:sc:USPSPriority!20876!US!-1
You can always use your memcal but I think the cover of the ecm needs to stay off or the blue cover needs to stay off the memcal. The knock filter on your memcal should have a second digit of R . Rbob doesn’t agree with the identification but even speed density memcal I have seen has a r for the second digit. If you don’t have this r the memcal has been swapped out and the knock filter will not work and you might get false knock. If you did a exchange with Scott you might have gotten a v6 memcal. I heard he uses them instead of v8 ones. The knock filter will not work properly.
Last edited by Tuned Performance; 02-27-2019 at 02:20 PM.
#59
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Re: First steps
Another good read post #7
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...r-filters.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...r-filters.html
Last edited by Tuned Performance; 02-27-2019 at 12:37 PM.
#60
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Re: First steps
Another good read post #7
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...r-filters.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...r-filters.html
#62
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Re: First steps
You can tune it like the old days and listen for ping then back off the timing. Some of these (like mine) old knock control systems are pretty useless at this stage - generating a lot of false knock events and ultimately I just had to disable it and do it old school style. The small block is more tolerant of light detonation than some newer engines as it was built prior to the advent of knock control systems and some detonation (often inaudible) was just going to be a fact of daily life for them. I wouldn't overly worry about it. Many people run with it shut off.
GD
GD
#64
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Re: First steps
Not really. But yeah I do have headers and 1.6 roller tip rockers. Also my trans is built, shifts hard, and 3000 stall converter. I haven't figure out what sets it off but I can pull 10+ degrees out across the board and it has no effect on the knock counts. It's pretty hard to determine what's causing the knock sensor to go off when it only occurs under load at 2800+ rpm.
GD
GD
#69
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Re: First steps
I’m no expert on the ebl, you should start your own thread to get started.
There is not a 350 aluminum head automatic tune to start with. You might want to start with 3005 tune and modify the spark timing tables.
To start off you should disable vats if needed, recurve timing table.
set your cid and injector constant. Set the injector offsets then start to do ve learns.
Gd has more experience with the ebl than I do.
There is not a 350 aluminum head automatic tune to start with. You might want to start with 3005 tune and modify the spark timing tables.
To start off you should disable vats if needed, recurve timing table.
set your cid and injector constant. Set the injector offsets then start to do ve learns.
Gd has more experience with the ebl than I do.
#72
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Re: First steps
You might want to ask rbob but innovative makes good products.
https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc2.php
https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc2.php
#73
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Re: First steps
Okay where do i adjust cold and hot idle speed in tuner pro. I adjusted it in the idle vs temp column it doesn't change the speed and if i get drastic with the incremental change the car wont start. I tried to adjust cold idle to 1000 and warm idle to 850 and then the car wont start
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Re: First steps
I used the 3005 ebl bin. Copied scotts main and extended spark tables. Then ran about 12 ve learns in idle. Cleaned up the idle allot. Still runs Rich. There surge is just about gone. I need to figure out how to lean it at idle and raise idle to 800. Btw running the innovate lc2 wb
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Re: First steps
Ok i am losing my dam mind here. I am simplyt tryingto raise the idle. I adjust the idle speed vs temp parameter and then the vehicle will not start
This is what its set at. The vehicle runs with low idle like this. If i try to set the appropriate temp to 800 rpm the car wont even start.
This is what its set at. The vehicle runs with low idle like this. If i try to set the appropriate temp to 800 rpm the car wont even start.
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Re: First steps
Wrong XDF file, check the TunerPro title bar in the above image. Also note how the entries in that table are foo. Use everything that was supplied with the EBL P4 system.
RBob.
RBob.
#83
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Re: First steps
That title is the bin i was comparing it to....one sent by scott hansen. That table is the original table that came with the ebl. When i try to adjust those values the car wont run.
#84
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Re: First steps
You have the wrong definition file for the EBL system loaded into tunerpro - when you change the table you are actually changing unknown areas of the ROM image and thereby contaminating it and causing a no-start. Those values in your RPM vs. CT table are WAY off the wall and make no sense. The engine wouldn't even be cable of idling at 125 RPM.
GD
GD
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Re: First steps
You have the wrong definition file for the EBL system loaded into tunerpro - when you change the table you are actually changing unknown areas of the ROM image and thereby contaminating it and causing a no-start. Those values in your RPM vs. CT table are WAY off the wall and make no sense. The engine wouldn't even be cable of idling at 125 RPM.
GD
GD
#86
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Re: First steps
Originally Posted by cpalmaccio1@gma
That title is the bin i was comparing it to....one sent by scott hansen. That table is the original table that came with the ebl. When i try to adjust those values the car wont run.
- Rob
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Re: First steps
Not sure what you're doing or did, did you try uploading a P4 bin with a Flash XDF by chance, because those numbers are way off in your supplied picture and are skewed. Just select a stock bin that is supplied (3004 or 3005), set your injector size, engine size and initial timing to match your base by hand. The engine should fire right up provided your engine is mechanically sound.
- Rob
- Rob
#88
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Re: First steps
Ok I found out where I was a dumbass thank you everyone for your patience. I have the correct xdf and loaded a bin with the spark tables scott sent me. Was surging at idle I ran a bunch of ve learns and it is now idling ok. A few observations. It is really rich. The wb says it isnt but i can smell it. Also I noticed that the closed loop isnt lit on the wud. I assume thus is an issue should I/ How do i correct the closed loop and rich at idle. Attached is my current bin and a data log at idle. Thank you all for your patience I actually feel I have a shot at pulling this off now
#89
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Re: First steps
Ok I found out where I was a dumbass thank you everyone for your patience. I have the correct xdf and loaded a bin with the spark tables scott sent me. Was surging at idle I ran a bunch of ve learns and it is now idling ok. A few observations. It is really rich. The wb says it isnt but i can smell it. Also I noticed that the closed loop isnt lit on the wud. I assume thus is an issue should I/ How do i correct the closed loop and rich at idle. Attached is my current bin and a data log at idle. Thank you all for your patience I actually feel I have a shot at pulling this off now
#90
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Re: First steps
It's not going into closed loop because your narrow band primary O2 sensor is stuck at about 475 mV. The ECU assumes this means it's not up to temp yet because at the AFR's being reported by the wideband the narrow band O2 should be around 900 mV indicating much richer than it currently does. I would say it's either broken or you didn't wait long enough for it to heat up. Try holding the RPM up around 2500 for a minute or two and see if it comes online after that.
If the run-time really is only 30 seconds - that's not long enough go bring the O2 up to temp. It's going to take minutes to enter closed loop. If you running a factory thermostat then 186 degree coolant temp means it has been running for a bit but it's not fully up to temp. You should wait about 5 minutes and try revving it before you determine it's not going to go closed loop.
GD
If the run-time really is only 30 seconds - that's not long enough go bring the O2 up to temp. It's going to take minutes to enter closed loop. If you running a factory thermostat then 186 degree coolant temp means it has been running for a bit but it's not fully up to temp. You should wait about 5 minutes and try revving it before you determine it's not going to go closed loop.
GD
Last edited by GeneralDisorder; 03-21-2019 at 11:08 PM.
#91
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Re: First steps
It's not going into closed loop because your narrow band primary O2 sensor is stuck at about 475 mV. The ECU assumes this means it's not up to temp yet because at the AFR's being reported by the wideband the narrow band O2 should be around 900 mV indicating much richer than it currently does. I would say it's either broken or you didn't wait long enough for it to heat up. Try holding the RPM up around 2500 for a minute or two and see if it comes online after that.
GD
GD
#94
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Re: First steps
GD
#95
Re: First steps
Charles, I would suggest you go through each table and compare with what i created for you. My bin should only need VE tuning. My spark map should be used and the PE vs spark add should be zero'd out. A corvette bin spark map should never be considered with the cam you're using. The spark map i use is from a 20 year old TPiS bin when they actually knew how to tune. Scott
Last edited by MrWillys; 03-23-2019 at 07:35 AM.
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Re: First steps
Charles, I would suggest you go through each table and compare with what i created for you. My bin should only need VE tuning. My spark map should be used and the PE vs spark add should be zero'd out. A corvette bin spark map should never be considered with the cam you're using. The spark map i use is from a 20 year old TPiS bin when they actually knew how to tune. Scott
I used your spark map and the car runs. For some reason when i copy the rest of the bin the car wont start. I don't know what value actually causes the bin not to work
#98
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Re: First steps
The car runs with scotts spark tables. I tried copying all the info from his bin to mine via copy and paste. When i do it won't start. Something I'm copying isn't working with the ebl. I am taking a wild guess that it has something to do with prom id mask or check sum i don't know what those exactly are like i said wild guess
#99
Re: First steps
The car runs with scotts spark tables. I tried copying all the info from his bin to mine via copy and paste. When i do it won't start. Something I'm copying isn't working with the ebl. I am taking a wild guess that it has something to do with prom id mask or check sum i don't know what those exactly are like i said wild guess