Originally my 89 IROC had a 305 5-speed. I then installed a ZZ4, mini-ram, 52mm, and AFRs. Upon installing the new chip my shift light was all messed up. I stopped in at TPIS. They promptly went to work on a new one. The first thing they did was enter "0" for all the shift points (to disable it- which would have been fine by me). That did not work. They then burnt me a new chip using 305 base maps (fuel and spark?). This one worked. The car idles good, it gets 27 mpg w/3.08s, and it goes 13.2 @ 107 in 3rd gear leaving the line at idle. Question is, could it be better in the way of performance or driveability? Is this what a DIY prom burner would need to do?

 

ROFLMFAO - 305 TPI base maps

Yet ANOTHER example of what great programmers the TPIS folks have working for them. The VE curve of a TPI engine is completely different from a MiniRam'd engine.

Here is general example of what a cammed MiniRam'd motor's VE curve MIGHT look like ...
http://www.xecu.net/timsiford/ve.jpg

Tim

 

TRAXION
Thank you for your input on the chip I received for my car. I checked out the graph and don't really have any idea what I am looking at (without a comparable LTR graph). It crossed my mind after I had the chip redone to get into burning my own. I don't intend to make alot of changes at this point(maybe a hot cam) that is why I paid for a custom chip. I'm running their intake and heads along with a ZZ4 cam and 1.6s.
I really would like get it redone again but without understanding chip burning and what to change how do I know what I'm getting?
And my question, If you wanted to retain the shift light, would the best approach be to alter the base maps of a 305-5speed chip to run in a 350?
With all the bad press they give the hot cam, I can just imagine the response I'll get asking them to burn a chip for that.

 

Fact is - TPIS wants to make money. They want you to buy their parts. Make your own judgements about how to "read into" what those two sentences mean.

The HOT cam is not a bad cam. Furthermore, it is NOT too large for a car with an opened up intake/head combo. Good example - Mike Davis. He has an LT4 HOT cam in a semi-siamesed base Large Tube Runner setup. He ran 11.9's@111 mph. I had a cam similar to the hot cam (218/224) and ran 12.2's@112mph with the MiniRam. The HOT cam definitely likes more intake than just a standard LTR setup ... but a semi-siamesed base LTR setup or a semi-siamesed LTR setup is almost a perfect match (hehe, he said MATCH). Right now I have a 230/245 cam in my car. TPIS would probably laugh at me if I told them that. But, fact of the matter is that there are tons of LT1 guys pushing 400 RWHP with 230 duration cams (CC306, etc). A hot cam would work nicely with your setup. You might even want to consider more duration ... like the 224/230 Xtreme series cam.

You said "Question is, could it be better in the way of performance or driveability? Is this what a DIY prom burner would need to do?" I cannot say that your car could be better in terms of performance or driveability. But, I can hypothesize. IF your chip is anything like my TPIS Level V chip then YES - it could definitely be better. But, I can't say for sure because I don't know your car. IMHO one of the biggest pluses for doing your own chips is driveability. What a difference once you start getting into it and learning and changing more stuff.

Tim

 

I was thinking the same thing as far as them making money. I am glad that they removed the hot cam question from their FAQ page (last time I looked). At some point I am going to install the cam as I already have it. I only hesitated because of TPIS.

I would like to find a 2-piece timing cover for a roller block to make cam swaps easier. It seems everything is 86 and older. Any ideas?

I am pleased with the driveability I currently have. The only complaint at this point is knock retard. The ecm is pulling out as much as 10 degrees beyond 5000 rpm. I tried octane boost, taking the total timing down as low as 32 degrees, cranking fuel pressure to 60lbs with cleaned 19lb injectors (it was as fat as a pig at 60), new knock sensor, and I just installed a new esc module because I went from 305 to 350. I haven't tried it since I installed the module. If that doesn't work I don't know what I'll try. I don't have any exhaust leaks or rattles. Could that be caused by the chip programming?

These message boards are a huge help to anyone in the hobby. Thanks go to everyone with the knowledge that is willing to share it.