Rear Hatch Motor Problems...
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 956
Likes: 0
From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: L98 5.7 L
Transmission: 700R
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
Rear Hatch Motor Problems...
Hey all,
A question about hatch pull-down motors. When I got my car, it didn't work. The release works fine. I had tried to figure out why it didn't work and found the relay full of water and corrosion. I went and got another motor today for $5.00 from a guy parting a 'bird out( great deal). I know it works, as I heard it raise up when he popped the hatch. I installed it, and nothing. The release works but the motor is stuck in the up position.
I checked with a tester to see if there was any power going to the motor, there isn't. I checked the white plug and the the small black plug. So I ask you...
1)Is there a constant live wire to the motor itself,and if there is, which one is it?
2)Is there a seperate fuse for the motor?
3)Is there a fuseable link?
4)Has anyone encountered this problem before?
Anyone with any info on this would be greatly appreciated.
Kevin
A question about hatch pull-down motors. When I got my car, it didn't work. The release works fine. I had tried to figure out why it didn't work and found the relay full of water and corrosion. I went and got another motor today for $5.00 from a guy parting a 'bird out( great deal). I know it works, as I heard it raise up when he popped the hatch. I installed it, and nothing. The release works but the motor is stuck in the up position.
I checked with a tester to see if there was any power going to the motor, there isn't. I checked the white plug and the the small black plug. So I ask you...
1)Is there a constant live wire to the motor itself,and if there is, which one is it?
2)Is there a seperate fuse for the motor?
3)Is there a fuseable link?
4)Has anyone encountered this problem before?
Anyone with any info on this would be greatly appreciated.
Kevin
Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 262
Likes: 0
From: NYC
Car: 1987 Iroc Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: Auto
Wow, this must be my lucky day.. ME TOO!! I just logged on to post the exact same thing, and then i saw your post. My motor works intermitently. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I have to push down on it repeatadly and then it works. Weird... also, why the hell didn't GM just make the hatch close all the way? What is the point of the pull-down thing? I am assuming another worthless novelty like that stupid flashlight in my overhead console.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 1
From: Paris, Tx. USA
Car: 89 RS
Engine: LS1
Transmission: TH350
Yeah mine just recently crapped out on me too. One thing after another. Its usually caused by the nylon gears in side breaking (as in my case). The motor is still fine, but the gears are hosed. There should be 12V at all times to one of the wires. Check the fuse. I have a service manual, but its in the garage, otherwise I would scan the page that has all of the fuse clusters on it, to show you where the exact fuse is. If you can wait till tomorrow I'll do that, or maybe someone else has it. Best thing to do is pull the motor and inspect the gears, kind of a PITA, and your back will be sore afterwards, but its doable. Be Patient.
As for me, I'll more than likely order a new motor from a guy on this board, dont know his name but I'll find it. I just dont want to go to a bone yard and pay money for a hatch motor that doesnt work.
Hope that helps.
As for me, I'll more than likely order a new motor from a guy on this board, dont know his name but I'll find it. I just dont want to go to a bone yard and pay money for a hatch motor that doesnt work.
Hope that helps.
yeah my old one the plactic just snapped (to many someones pressinfg down to speed it help it out) but anyhow a diagram would be awsome thanks in advance
i got the new one but got no juice so it seems plus a conector was cut off i think
i got the new one but got no juice so it seems plus a conector was cut off i think
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 956
Likes: 0
From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: L98 5.7 L
Transmission: 700R
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
A diagram would be great. I would have to assume that it is more of an electrical problem than a motor problem. Like I said, I heard the motor raise up before I pulled it out, and I can't detect a constant live to it.
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,266
Likes: 1
From: Moved... GA still, more garage space!
Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Mine died in my 87 and I just got it back running. It was the relay. Old motor jammed and blew the relay. Plastic housing was shot so I went ahead & put in a junkyard motor.
Since you know for a fact that your replacement motor is good. I would start with your fuse, its an inline fuse. In my 87 it was next to the fuse box. Its is a blade style 15 amp blue fuse. It has a flat black case. Has a thick red wire and a smaller red and white wire. Red and white wire go back to the motor. I have had an alarm installed and they moved my wires around, but I believe you should be able to see it close by the fuse block. On later models it should be in the fuse block. I heard it was marked as lid.
The red and white wire is constantly hot. Check it back in the hatch area. It connects to a blue wire if I remember correctly. If your relay was really corroded the conector may have corrosion on it and may need to be cleaned. Get some electrical contact cleaner. Some of your other conectors could be corroded as well. Check them.
See if this helps. I would tell you more, but I'm at work and don't have access to any service books or the old motor.
Since you know for a fact that your replacement motor is good. I would start with your fuse, its an inline fuse. In my 87 it was next to the fuse box. Its is a blade style 15 amp blue fuse. It has a flat black case. Has a thick red wire and a smaller red and white wire. Red and white wire go back to the motor. I have had an alarm installed and they moved my wires around, but I believe you should be able to see it close by the fuse block. On later models it should be in the fuse block. I heard it was marked as lid.
The red and white wire is constantly hot. Check it back in the hatch area. It connects to a blue wire if I remember correctly. If your relay was really corroded the conector may have corrosion on it and may need to be cleaned. Get some electrical contact cleaner. Some of your other conectors could be corroded as well. Check them.
See if this helps. I would tell you more, but I'm at work and don't have access to any service books or the old motor.
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 956
Likes: 0
From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: L98 5.7 L
Transmission: 700R
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
Hey all,
I just figured it out.First I made sure that the motor worked by running a hot wire to the power supply of the motor. I crossed my fingers and closed the hatch. It worked. Then I traced the coloured wire back to under the dash. After spending hours trying to sort out which wire did what, I found a plug that wasn't connected to anything that had the same colour coded wire. It turns out that it isn't a plug, but a fuse holder. I popped in a 15amp fuse and everything worked as it should.
I hope this will answer some of your questions. Good luck with your motors.
I just figured it out.First I made sure that the motor worked by running a hot wire to the power supply of the motor. I crossed my fingers and closed the hatch. It worked. Then I traced the coloured wire back to under the dash. After spending hours trying to sort out which wire did what, I found a plug that wasn't connected to anything that had the same colour coded wire. It turns out that it isn't a plug, but a fuse holder. I popped in a 15amp fuse and everything worked as it should.
I hope this will answer some of your questions. Good luck with your motors. Thread
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