Power window motor not that hard to replace
Power window motor not that hard to replace
Ok, I'm not sure if this is the board for this, but I just needed to ask.
Everyone is alwasy saying that the power window motor is hard to replace because of having to remove the motor AND regulator from the door. My question is WHY?
I was able to drill 3 holes into the inside door skin right at the rivets that hold the motor to the regulator. Drill out the rivets and off comes the motor. The window weight holds the counter balance from springing out while the motor is disconnected (window stoped in place of course)
Then it was just a matter of setting the new motor in place, lining it up and using the screws that came with the motor and some thread lock, bolted the new motor right back up.
The hardest part was marking the spot on the door to drill through to get to the rivets. (missed one hole by about 1/4" and had to re-drill)
Now, did I do something wrong or un-safe doing it this way? Everything seemed very stable while the motor was out, and the end result was that everything worked absolutely fine. All in total it took about a 30-35 minutes to replace.
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GndPrx
http://www.caraudioresources.net
EFNet #car-audio ; #caraudio
Everyone is alwasy saying that the power window motor is hard to replace because of having to remove the motor AND regulator from the door. My question is WHY?
I was able to drill 3 holes into the inside door skin right at the rivets that hold the motor to the regulator. Drill out the rivets and off comes the motor. The window weight holds the counter balance from springing out while the motor is disconnected (window stoped in place of course)
Then it was just a matter of setting the new motor in place, lining it up and using the screws that came with the motor and some thread lock, bolted the new motor right back up.
The hardest part was marking the spot on the door to drill through to get to the rivets. (missed one hole by about 1/4" and had to re-drill)
Now, did I do something wrong or un-safe doing it this way? Everything seemed very stable while the motor was out, and the end result was that everything worked absolutely fine. All in total it took about a 30-35 minutes to replace.
------------------
GndPrx
http://www.caraudioresources.net
EFNet #car-audio ; #caraudio
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis, IN
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 412ci/sb
Transmission: Built 700R4
Did you use the tech article from here as a reference or did you jus dive in? Sounds easy enough. Both my windows are only working intermitently...go up then stop then i have to wait for the relay to reset then go up again. I have to help pull them up so they won't stop. Let me know
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91 Firebird 305/TBI - cam:.420/.442 204/214 - Hooker 1 5/8" headers - TFX PaceSetter Cat-Back - 3.42's Auburn Pro Posi - ASCD Ram-Air hood - Polished Formula Wheels w/Futura's - Open element - .5" Corian TB spacer - Lakewood LCA's - Hotchkis Lowering Springs - KYB Struts/Shocks - 14.78 @ 97.5 mph(G-Tech) - MacEwen MotorSports Whiteface Overlays - 412ci sb waiting to go in this spring.
My Homepage
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91 Firebird 305/TBI - cam:.420/.442 204/214 - Hooker 1 5/8" headers - TFX PaceSetter Cat-Back - 3.42's Auburn Pro Posi - ASCD Ram-Air hood - Polished Formula Wheels w/Futura's - Open element - .5" Corian TB spacer - Lakewood LCA's - Hotchkis Lowering Springs - KYB Struts/Shocks - 14.78 @ 97.5 mph(G-Tech) - MacEwen MotorSports Whiteface Overlays - 412ci sb waiting to go in this spring.
My Homepage
Well, I did read the tech article, but once I got the new motor in my hands and pulled all the panels off the door I went about it a different way than is described.
I think the hardest part was lining up where to drill through the door to get to the motor rivets, and even that wasn't that bad.
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GndPrx
http://www.caraudioresources.net
I think the hardest part was lining up where to drill through the door to get to the motor rivets, and even that wasn't that bad.
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GndPrx
http://www.caraudioresources.net
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,341
Likes: 0
From: Where the chicks absolutely LOVE the V-8 rumble!
Car: 92 RS - Fully Restored w/Custom Int
Engine: LO3 with some mods
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Richmond
I just replaced my passenger side motor and it was a PITA....I followed the Chilton guide with no problem until I realized how impossible it was to get my hands the right sized rivet tool. You say you used nuts and bolts.....how were you able to get your hand or a tool behind the door frame so you could tighten the bolts?
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