Blower Motor Wont Come On
Blower Motor Wont Come On
Hey Guys,I love this site,But anyway heres my Problem.When i go to turn on my heat or A/C my blower motor wont come on.I know its not the fuse,and its not the blower motor itself because this one is good since i tested it.Could it be a relay or a fusible link,or even the switch itself?The car is the 86 trans am with the digital dash setup just like that of a GTA if that helps.Is there a way to test the switch,or the fusible link or relay,or whatever could be causing this problem?Thanks,Al in NJ
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86 Trans Am 305 TPI,Bored 30 over,Blower Cam,Fordged Racing Pistons,High Volume Oil Pump,3" Flowmaster Exhaust,Hypetech Coil,Acell 300+ Race Wires,Bosch Platinum +4 Plugs.Best Et was 12.5 with a Paxton.
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86 Trans Am 305 TPI,Bored 30 over,Blower Cam,Fordged Racing Pistons,High Volume Oil Pump,3" Flowmaster Exhaust,Hypetech Coil,Acell 300+ Race Wires,Bosch Platinum +4 Plugs.Best Et was 12.5 with a Paxton.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,295
Likes: 0
From: VA
Car: '91 Z28
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 323's
You can visually check the resistor unit (near the blower motor and firewall) just take it out and have a look-see, but if you're not getting ANY response, lo, hi, etc., then your selector switch on the a/c head itself is probably bad. That was the problem with mine...
KAM
KAM
I'm having the exact same problem right now! And I have spent $90 so far and I still have no air. That includes $30 for a new motor, and since my hood struts were bad, I replaced those, $40. I also replaced the relay which was another $20. Let me be an example to you and don't do what I did. Find out whats wrong before you start buying stuff. I just assumed my blower motor was bad because no air was coming. fing out what the problem is before you try to fix it.
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yellow 86 Camaro
LG4 700R4
Pioneer head unit
Kenwood speakers
Infinity Beta Digital 300 amp
2 Infinity Perfect 12s
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yellow 86 Camaro
LG4 700R4
Pioneer head unit
Kenwood speakers
Infinity Beta Digital 300 amp
2 Infinity Perfect 12s
Thanks for the help so far guys.Yea i hear that MAtthew,last thing i want to do is spend more money than needed right now,especially after the holidays.So Thunderstick,the resistor unit your talking about,you can tell if its bad just ny looking at it?And where is it?I know you said near the blower motor and firewall,but i mean is it mounted on the firewall or in with the blower motor or Etc...And yea im not getting anthing at all when i turn on the switch,not even when i out it in the Fan position.Could that be the switch?And is the resistor unit and the relay the same thing...Thanks Alot..Al in NJ
i meant to say can you tell its bad by looking at it.And nothing happens when i put the switch in any position including the Fan position.Ok thats what i meant.Excuse my spelling.THanks Again guys...Al in NJ
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,295
Likes: 0
From: VA
Car: '91 Z28
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 323's
Al, the resistor unit itself is in that "airbox" housing to the right of your blower motor. It has a connector with about 4 wires (I think) and only a couple of screws holding it in place. If you take it out, the resistors look like little coil springs, so you tell just looking at it if they are bad. The resistor and the relay are not the same thing. I don't have a clue where the relay is... There was a post here not too long ago, and I don't remember if it was in this particular forum, mighta been general tech, but it laid it out pretty good about everything. If you do a search, you should be able to come up with it. I believe the title had something to do with no air/no heat. Good luck and I hope I've been a little help, at least. Another way to check your motor itself is to just run a 12V source (like right from your batt) to the motor and make sure it is good. It sounds like your switch itself (selector switch) is bad, though. When mine crapped out, it would not send power to anything. They get all worn out from the "slide action", and the contacts on it go bad. I can't remember how much I paid for mine...
KAM
KAM
Thanks alot man.Ill check my resistor as soon as this snow melts away.I did the thing with running a hot line right to the blower motor before i even decided i needed help,and its working fine.But i really appreciate you telling me where to find the resistor.So basically when i take the blower motor out,its in the housing to it?I think if thats not it then it probally is the switch.Thanks alot.Al in NJ
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
This should be in the FAQ...
Take out your A/C control head; follow the single brown wire that goes to the "mode" switch, and follow it back to where it plugs into a similar brown wire that comes from teh instrument cluster harness... you'll find an extremely stupid design connector about 12" away from the control head. It feeds supply voltage to the whole A/C system. It always burns up, because it's such a bad design. I've lost count of how many of those things I've replaced. Use a pair of the BIG yellow insulated slide terminals to replace it.
It isn't the rsistor, because that is totally bypassed in high speed./ You could take the resistor out of the car and high should still work. It isn't the relay, because that switches between the resistors and a feed straight from the battery that is for high speed only, usually when that goes out it takes high speed out, or occasionally all lower speeds, but it's nearly impossible for it to kill both. There is no fusible link. The switch rarely goes bad. You can cehck the motor by unplugging the connector at the relay and putting a heavy-gauge jumper wire between the red and purple wires; if the motor runs, it's good.
There are 2 other connectors to check: the red wire that supplies battery, and a 4-pin connector that also carries power to the A/C clutch. Both of these are on the firewall right above the heater hose nipples.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
Take out your A/C control head; follow the single brown wire that goes to the "mode" switch, and follow it back to where it plugs into a similar brown wire that comes from teh instrument cluster harness... you'll find an extremely stupid design connector about 12" away from the control head. It feeds supply voltage to the whole A/C system. It always burns up, because it's such a bad design. I've lost count of how many of those things I've replaced. Use a pair of the BIG yellow insulated slide terminals to replace it.
It isn't the rsistor, because that is totally bypassed in high speed./ You could take the resistor out of the car and high should still work. It isn't the relay, because that switches between the resistors and a feed straight from the battery that is for high speed only, usually when that goes out it takes high speed out, or occasionally all lower speeds, but it's nearly impossible for it to kill both. There is no fusible link. The switch rarely goes bad. You can cehck the motor by unplugging the connector at the relay and putting a heavy-gauge jumper wire between the red and purple wires; if the motor runs, it's good.
There are 2 other connectors to check: the red wire that supplies battery, and a 4-pin connector that also carries power to the A/C clutch. Both of these are on the firewall right above the heater hose nipples.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
Well i tested the blower motor again and its fine,guess its time to go over the other stuff you guys mentioned now.Thanks.Al in NJ
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86 Trans Am 305 TPI,Bored 30 over,Blower Cam,Fordged Racing Pistons,High Volume Oil Pump,3" Flowmaster Exhaust,Hypetech Coil,Acell 300+ Race Wires,Bosch Platinum +4 Plugs.Best Et was 12.5 with a Paxton.
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86 Trans Am 305 TPI,Bored 30 over,Blower Cam,Fordged Racing Pistons,High Volume Oil Pump,3" Flowmaster Exhaust,Hypetech Coil,Acell 300+ Race Wires,Bosch Platinum +4 Plugs.Best Et was 12.5 with a Paxton.
ok thanks,ill let you know,im still waiting for a nice day.Al in NJ
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86 Trans Am 305 TPI,Bored 30 over,Blower Cam,Fordged Racing Pistons,High Volume Oil Pump,3" Flowmaster Exhaust,Hypetech Coil,Acell 300+ Race Wires,Bosch Platinum +4 Plugs.Best Et was 12.5 with a Paxton.
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86 Trans Am 305 TPI,Bored 30 over,Blower Cam,Fordged Racing Pistons,High Volume Oil Pump,3" Flowmaster Exhaust,Hypetech Coil,Acell 300+ Race Wires,Bosch Platinum +4 Plugs.Best Et was 12.5 with a Paxton.
86transAm- look at my post and scroll down.
Vader put a pic on there that shows were the resistors are. https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/004218.html
Vader put a pic on there that shows were the resistors are. https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/004218.html
YO Matthew,your the man,that pic is exactly what i needed.Im gona check it out probally today or tomorrow.Thanks alot man.And thanks to all you guys for your help.Al in NJ.
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86 Trans Am 305 TPI,Bored 30 over,Blower Cam,Fordged Racing Pistons,High Volume Oil Pump,3" Flowmaster Exhaust,Hypetech Coil,Acell 300+ Race Wires,Bosch Platinum +4 Plugs.Best Et was 12.5 with a Paxton.
------------------
86 Trans Am 305 TPI,Bored 30 over,Blower Cam,Fordged Racing Pistons,High Volume Oil Pump,3" Flowmaster Exhaust,Hypetech Coil,Acell 300+ Race Wires,Bosch Platinum +4 Plugs.Best Et was 12.5 with a Paxton.
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