fuel gauge not working right....
fuel gauge not working right....
i have a problem here. I replaced all of my lightbulbs on my instrument panel w/ new ones. the required taking the whole cluster out. when I put it back in everything worked fine, but the prob is that the fuel gauge turns on, but it goes on right past full, and basically is straight up. like way more than full. I don't know what it is, since all of the other gauges read correctly. I tried swapping out the fuel gauges w/ another one that I have lying around, and it does the same so something else is wrong. any ideas??
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88' Camaro SC
2.8 V6,
TCI 3200 Stall TC
B&M Transkit
83 Z/28 Hood
2.5" Flowmaster Catback
Hi-Flo Kitty
IROC Gages
IROC Taillights
Foglamps
'92 Z/28 Bowtie Grille
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88' Camaro SC
2.8 V6,
TCI 3200 Stall TC
B&M Transkit
83 Z/28 Hood
2.5" Flowmaster Catback
Hi-Flo Kitty
IROC Gages
IROC Taillights
Foglamps
'92 Z/28 Bowtie Grille
I feel your pain... Besides that fact that my dash has completely gone nuts (RE: Demonic Possession.) My gas gauge has ALWAYS been like that -- pointing to the sky... Does anyone know what really is causing it? I always thought it was something in the tank but I guess not...
It sounds like the wire on your sending unit is pinched or cut, try disconnecting the plug at the tank just behind the rear seat/firewall (under the car) and checking it with a multimeter. One wire should be ground (black) another should be hot when the key is on (tan) and then there's the gauge wire (usually pink). See if it's grounded, if not then ground it and check the gauge. if there's no change then you'll need to trace the wire. You might have knocked the pin out of whack when you put the cluster back in.
Hope this helps.
John
Hope this helps.
John
Look at the underside of the cluster on the right hand side. There's one circuit that loops underneath, and taking the cluster in and out can cause a sharp screw that's lined up with it to saw through it. That trace is related to the fuel gauge. See if that's okay. That one killed me once.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 1999
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Car: 2002 SOM z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T-56
Sometimes crud forms around where the gauge sender wire plugs into the gas tank. I just replaced my stock gauge with an Autometer one and they both do the same thing... sit at way over F until I reach about 1/2 tank, then it drops down and reads normally until empty. Since I used different power and ground wires for the new gauge, I must assume it has something to do with either the sender wire and/or the thing inside the tank itself.
It is based on resistance, so if the wire is cut, then you'll have infinate resistance and it will stay above F all the time...
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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...
-=ICON Motorsports=-
It is based on resistance, so if the wire is cut, then you'll have infinate resistance and it will stay above F all the time...
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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...
-=ICON Motorsports=-
nope it doesn't drop. AT ALL... that sucks. I'll pull the cluster over the weekend and make sure it's connecting good, and make sure none of the wires are severed.... I obviously didn't connect it to well when I put it all back together...
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- 1988 Camaro Sport Coupe
- 2.8 V6
- TCI 3200 Stall TC
- B&M Transkit
- 2.5" 80 Series Flowmaster & Catback
- Hi-Flo Kitty
- '83 Z/28 Hood
- '87 IROC Wheels
- '92 Z/28 Bowtie Grille
- IROC Gauges
- IROC Taillights
- IROC Foglamps
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