rear hatch motor stopped working...
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 496
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From: Chicago, IL
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700-R4
rear hatch motor stopped working...
My lighter body has a short in it that makes the acc fuse go pop so I have unhooked the lighter connector. Today I tried to swap in another lighter body but either it also has a short or the short is somewhere else b/c the acc fuse popped again. So I disconnected the lighter and replaced the fuse. Now my hatch motor won't pull the hatch down or operate at all as far as I can tell. The lid fuse and all other fuses are ok. I know there's a big piggyback connector (S219) where the orange lighter wire and hatch wire would have a connection but all the other stuff that runs through that connector works fine. Anyone have any ideas? could I have fried the motor? Thanks very much in advance.
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Base: 89 Iroc-Z LB9 auto 2.73 posi
Exh: 3" Dynomax muffler, 3" Pipe in place of cat
Ign: GMPP 8MM wires, Accel cap&rotor, AC Plugs
Fuel: Cleaned and flow-matched injectors, afpr, !air pump&diverter valve
Sound: Clarion deck, Kicker speakers and amps
Suspension: KYB Shocks, BMR Strut Tower Brace
Misc: TB Bypass, Synthetic Oil, Flexlite Transmission cooler,
free mods, flow tech headers on the way,
engine swap and 4th gen seats in the works...
------------------
Base: 89 Iroc-Z LB9 auto 2.73 posi
Exh: 3" Dynomax muffler, 3" Pipe in place of cat
Ign: GMPP 8MM wires, Accel cap&rotor, AC Plugs
Fuel: Cleaned and flow-matched injectors, afpr, !air pump&diverter valve
Sound: Clarion deck, Kicker speakers and amps
Suspension: KYB Shocks, BMR Strut Tower Brace
Misc: TB Bypass, Synthetic Oil, Flexlite Transmission cooler,
free mods, flow tech headers on the way,
engine swap and 4th gen seats in the works...
There is a switch on the pull-down assembly that tells the motor to go up or pull down. Try flipping the switch in the opposite direction. For the lack of a better description, sometimes the motor gets confused when you blow a fuse or something.
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